Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!
Best Of
Re: Which is better heat pump or a hybrid heat pump
Enjoying the commentary.
What I'm hoping to see is a 2kW (gas/propane) hybrid engine driven heat pump with thermal friction/exhaust recovery. Preferably water jacketed for recovery and noise reduction. That would provide about 6800btu plus addition of COP moved heat of a heat pump, without the need of high grid supplied power, rather for starting and controls. Conceivably, heat and power could be supplied. CHP.
I've also wondered why solar gain isn't leveraged also on the heat pump side.
I'm just surprised there's not a minisplit conversion kit on amazon by now.
What I'm hoping to see is a 2kW (gas/propane) hybrid engine driven heat pump with thermal friction/exhaust recovery. Preferably water jacketed for recovery and noise reduction. That would provide about 6800btu plus addition of COP moved heat of a heat pump, without the need of high grid supplied power, rather for starting and controls. Conceivably, heat and power could be supplied. CHP.
I've also wondered why solar gain isn't leveraged also on the heat pump side.
I'm just surprised there's not a minisplit conversion kit on amazon by now.
farmwi
1
Re: Which is better heat pump or a hybrid heat pump
Too many variables. Which might be better in any given application depends, among a host of other things, on what the client's objective in choosing a heat pump (hybrid or straight) is in the first place, electricty or other fuel costs in the area, climate in the area, client's tolerance to no heat/low heat situations, etc.
Even the first one -- objective -- is murky, as the preferred choice should take into account whether the objective is visible green, actual green (which is very different in most of the country), compliance with a mandate (which is no choice at all actually), or just being comfortable at a reasonable price.
Even the first one -- objective -- is murky, as the preferred choice should take into account whether the objective is visible green, actual green (which is very different in most of the country), compliance with a mandate (which is no choice at all actually), or just being comfortable at a reasonable price.
Re: Which is better heat pump or a hybrid heat pump
Heat transfere from a heat pump is the refrigerant, a properly sized system with wall mount indoor heads using a quality cold climate product will work fine in most all cases. When we install heat pump ducted systems the dynamic changes, the heat transfere is no longer coming off the coil directly heating the space, it now has to over come velocity loss and heat loss from the ductwork in an unconditioned attic, basement, or crawlspace. A good percentage of homeowners don't want to see a head on the wall, and may even have existing ductwork.
In this instance I would always consider a hybrid option. You may get 10 plus months out of the year the gas valve doest turn on, but the guarantee is there you will make set point no matter what.
If you live a place like northern VT with a -20 design temperature you should have redundancy, wood stove or pellets with heat pump only.
In this instance I would always consider a hybrid option. You may get 10 plus months out of the year the gas valve doest turn on, but the guarantee is there you will make set point no matter what.
If you live a place like northern VT with a -20 design temperature you should have redundancy, wood stove or pellets with heat pump only.
Re: Modcon vs CI Gas Usage - Baseboard Heat
Well...your numbers are right there. The absolute maximum you could save would be the 11 % or so. That will assume that the mod/con is condensing all the time (which it won't be) and that both boilers are otherwise set up and operated optimally.
The modulation does make a difference -- but mostly so that the boiler can condense more of the time. Again, assuming that the mod/con is making use of all its features (particularly outdoor reset) and you don't do strange things with the thermostats. It will help some in reaching towards that 11 % -- but you won't get over that.
The modulation does make a difference -- but mostly so that the boiler can condense more of the time. Again, assuming that the mod/con is making use of all its features (particularly outdoor reset) and you don't do strange things with the thermostats. It will help some in reaching towards that 11 % -- but you won't get over that.
Re: Radiator making loud water hamming noise and water sloshing sound
Now you’re on it! Find that pipe below floor. Radiator takeoff tee should be on a 45 slant. Allows condensate to hug the pipe wall. Drips become Missile hammers. Follow the pipe. Near the end it may have an end of main vent. If plugged radiator is trying to vent branch. Watch the level of the main. It must pitch. Watch for sags. Mentally be the condensate. How does get home. Steam rides top of pipe, condensate runs like a river in the bottom.
Just an idea.
Re: Low water cut off malfuntions
What are other possibilities for the crack? Can the probe low water cut offs misread if sludge is present?
tonylap
1
Re: Radiator making loud water hamming noise and water sloshing sound
The valve could be your problem.
@Gordo has a U tube video about the pitfalls of a straight globe valve on a radiator that you might want to peak at on U tube. Some designs don't allow the water to drain. You could remove the valve and hook it up without the valve and see how it works.
@Gordo has a U tube video about the pitfalls of a straight globe valve on a radiator that you might want to peak at on U tube. Some designs don't allow the water to drain. You could remove the valve and hook it up without the valve and see how it works.
Re: Radiator making loud water hamming noise and water sloshing sound
Off-topic, I know, but how well does that room heat? With the air vent in the upper position intended for hot water systems, you are probably getting no more than 50% of the steam rating of that radiator.
If the room heats well, I'd leave it alone. If not, there should be a boss further down on that side of the radiator where the vent should be installed for steam heat.
If the room heats well, I'd leave it alone. If not, there should be a boss further down on that side of the radiator where the vent should be installed for steam heat.
bburd
1
Re: Finding Leaks
Also what makes you think it is building no pressure? the vaporstat is set to something insane that i can't read so i wouldn't expect it would ever shut off, that gauge isn't a type that can accurately read low pressure, that mercury vaporstat has to be level to be accurate, and have you checked that the pigtail is clear in to the boiler? The vaporstat also has to be perpendicular to the curl in the pigtail so it stays level because that pigtail curls and uncurls some with temp changes.
mattmia2
2
Re: Finding Leaks
Flood the boiler, fill it to above the top of the boiler and see if water comes running out somewhere.
A mirror will find leaks at valve packings and joints and such but my bet is on the boiler having failed above the water line. If you're lucky it is just a fitting but at the age of that boiler a leak in or between sections is likely.
A mirror will find leaks at valve packings and joints and such but my bet is on the boiler having failed above the water line. If you're lucky it is just a fitting but at the age of that boiler a leak in or between sections is likely.
mattmia2
1