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Re: can manual isolation or zone valves control heat?
It may be possible to add zone control, really need to see the piping to know for sure.
For now you can try closing down the dampers on the baseboard in the rooms that you want less heat.
The damper is the long metal strip at the top of the fin tube baseboard, it should rotate to open, closed or in between to adjust the output.
Here is an example of a common fin tube from Slant Fin. #4 shows the damper operation.
For now you can try closing down the dampers on the baseboard in the rooms that you want less heat.
The damper is the long metal strip at the top of the fin tube baseboard, it should rotate to open, closed or in between to adjust the output.
Here is an example of a common fin tube from Slant Fin. #4 shows the damper operation.
hot_rod
3
Re: Energy kinetics boiler type for me?
Joe
Please reach out to me at your convenience, happy to answer any questions you have.
Please reach out to me at your convenience, happy to answer any questions you have.
JayMcCay
1
Re: Input needed on heating upgrade / conversion
Your current system has two heating zones. Assuming this is hot water, not steam, it should be a simple matter to replace the two boilers with one boiler that has two circulators or two zone valves, and keep those two zones as they are. This will cost less than installing two new boilers and keep you just as comfortable.
The new boiler should be sized according to the current heat loss of the house, and will probably be quite a bit smaller than the capacity of the existing boilers combined. As noted above, oversized equipment is very common.
You need to find a contractor willing to do a heat loss calculation. Too many don't. Try the "find a contractor" tool on this site.
The new boiler should be sized according to the current heat loss of the house, and will probably be quite a bit smaller than the capacity of the existing boilers combined. As noted above, oversized equipment is very common.
You need to find a contractor willing to do a heat loss calculation. Too many don't. Try the "find a contractor" tool on this site.
bburd
1
Re: Do I need to have this redone? Should I? Attic Installation LG Low Static Ducted Heat Pump
I think its funny that they sent out a quality control guy and he was ok with most of the install. if there was ever a duct job that needed to be ripped out and started from scratch its this one. Honestly though I think you're gonna get the run around. If he didn't think that the flex was an issue then he is just as bad as the installers. He probably trained them.
I know this sucks but i would ask for your money back and get another company. This company is not going to do you right. They should own this and they are not. The first indication is that they are not going to do the right thing.
And forget about going after the inspector. In Massachusetts the inspector cannot be held liabel for missing a code violation. it's on the books. i'm sure if you got a good attorney you could get him on some how but if you could go after inspectors in the state you probably wouldn't have any inspectors
I know this sucks but i would ask for your money back and get another company. This company is not going to do you right. They should own this and they are not. The first indication is that they are not going to do the right thing.
And forget about going after the inspector. In Massachusetts the inspector cannot be held liabel for missing a code violation. it's on the books. i'm sure if you got a good attorney you could get him on some how but if you could go after inspectors in the state you probably wouldn't have any inspectors
pedmec
1
Re: Do I need to have this redone? Should I? Attic Installation LG Low Static Ducted Heat Pump
Agreed and I’ll add where’s the line set loopworldclasshvac said:Complete hack install. I see this all the time. Unit needs to be suspended as the access for most repairs is underneath the unit. All ducts should be hard piped sheet metal with flex the last few feet to the register box. Id bet nothing is sealed well or taped/mastic. This is a slam it in fast and it works were done type of install
pecmsg
1
Re: Knight inducer fan keeps failing
Here is the fan on a smaller Knight. It pulls intake air and a gas mix from a negative pressure gas valve, pushes into the combustion chamber. They run a bit warmer than the boiler temperature on the aluminum housing.
It sounds like a bad bearing, if it is pulling in clean fresh air?
It sounds like a bad bearing, if it is pulling in clean fresh air?
hot_rod
1
Re: Input needed on heating upgrade / conversion
Can we assume this is a hot water system as apposed to a steam system? If that's the case I think the simpler the better. Keep the radiators and install a new boiler or two, depending on the use of the building.
If there is enough radiation installed this would be IMO a good time to consider a modulation condensing boiler of the appropriate size. These can be easily zoned at each radiator or at each zone.
If there is enough radiation installed this would be IMO a good time to consider a modulation condensing boiler of the appropriate size. These can be easily zoned at each radiator or at each zone.
Grallert
1
Re: Fosta Pex Sludge
a Bump of all Bumps----any other Fosta pex issues out there? We just did a job with Fosta running to the attic--had a rough time purging the lines. I ate some more labor.
GW
1
Re: Fosta Pex Sludge
I spent 4 hours at a friends house purging 1/2” fosta runs. Previous owner converted from electric to hydronic. They must have went with 1/2 to save money. Either way, a lot of air and chemicals got the loops to finally heat. Added a dirt magnet to continue with the chemicals.
jpulls11
1
Re: McDonnell miller 47-2 overfilling boiler
@109A_5
Good catch, I found the valve on eBay, but the flow was reversed. I reversed the plumbing to accommodate it. After observing the operation of the M&M for the past week, it seems that the unit is operating correctly. The problem happens during the longest run the boiler has, first thing in the morning. Typically the boiler runs for about an hour and a half in the morning. The level starts off good, during the run the water level gets low (not enough to shut down the furnace) and the M&M adds water. After the furnace shuts down water starts to come back to the boiler, raising the water level up past the sight glass. All that happens within 5 minutes of shut down. I think if I stopped the flow of water to the M&M after the furnace starts then let the water flow again 10 minutes after the cycle ends it may solve the problem.
Good catch, I found the valve on eBay, but the flow was reversed. I reversed the plumbing to accommodate it. After observing the operation of the M&M for the past week, it seems that the unit is operating correctly. The problem happens during the longest run the boiler has, first thing in the morning. Typically the boiler runs for about an hour and a half in the morning. The level starts off good, during the run the water level gets low (not enough to shut down the furnace) and the M&M adds water. After the furnace shuts down water starts to come back to the boiler, raising the water level up past the sight glass. All that happens within 5 minutes of shut down. I think if I stopped the flow of water to the M&M after the furnace starts then let the water flow again 10 minutes after the cycle ends it may solve the problem.
