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Re: The case of the warped burner head, this weeks case.
You never said what fuel they were burning so I will take a stab at it. At one time those burner heads were made of cast iron but that changed due to cost. That looks like a Gorgon Piatt burner but I digress. Usually, the burning of the head is from the wrong oil nozzle, the burner head not being protected by the front refractory, poor flame set-up think primary or secondary air, incorrect burner input, or a crap burner head. Some of those commercial burners had a very poor low fire flame pattern and would overheat the burner head if kept on low fire too long.
Re: 0psi cold fill pressure and 20psi while running
still makes no sense that you have zero, then 20, when heating,Here is my thinking on why the problem happened. When the expansion tank was set to 20psi, it wasn't really doing anything (other than limit the max pressure to 20). Because my fill is limited to 12, I can't get enough water into the system to be anywhere near 20 psi.
did the old tank do this?
get another gage on there somewhere,
cold fill to 12,
if it climbs to 20 when heating, then you're still ok,
or the tank is preset higher that the 12,
The system has 3 circulation pumps, all with internal check valves. In particular, the pump that feeds the heating zones is the biggest and all the zones have cutoff valves (set by the thermostats) on the return side. When heating, I can hear the cutoff valve(s) close before the circulation pumps stop. That seems like it would build a lot of pressure in the zones and then trap it there (all cutoffs are off, and the pump check valve will prevent backflow. Thus the heating zones (which are the majority of water volume) at pressured up while the feedthrough loop is likely a little starved of water and thus pressure. At the same time, the expansion tank has nothing to give back because it's set too high and always empty. So the loop with my gauge shows 0 psi.
As a test, I manually clicked open one of the zone cutoffs and the gauge jumped up to like 17 psi. Clearly pressure/water was being trapped.
Anyway, when I set the expansion tank equal to the limiter, it started storing some water as intended and that expands back into the feedthrough loop after the zone cutoffs click off. Hence the pressure seems to be more constant.
Maybe this theory holds water
extrol60
1
Re: Secondary pump selection
A typical 1/2 pex loop is .50 gpm. So the 4 loops add to 2 gpm
You should be fine direct piping. Use a good air separator
Lots if air problems on HH this time if the year
You should be fine direct piping. Use a good air separator
Lots if air problems on HH this time if the year
hot_rod
1
Re: Can I install the Nest Power Connector with this old Honeywell system?
@oldiesystem
I agree with @Jamie Hall
We get several nest questions a week. All their power connectors and gimmicks are questionable. Either pull a c wire to the thermostats and hook then up with a seperate transformer and relay or skip it and use a regular stat with batteries.
Hooking a nest up any other way is unreliable, it may work for a while without the C wire and then it will quit. It's all about the internal batteries. See the attached diagram
I agree with @Jamie Hall
We get several nest questions a week. All their power connectors and gimmicks are questionable. Either pull a c wire to the thermostats and hook then up with a seperate transformer and relay or skip it and use a regular stat with batteries.
Hooking a nest up any other way is unreliable, it may work for a while without the C wire and then it will quit. It's all about the internal batteries. See the attached diagram
Re: Navien NCB 240 flame loss (error 12)
Hi. Problem resolved! We replaced the dual Venturi gas/air mixer. It is located on the left side upper section. It is the housing that the gas and blower connect to. It has a small motor that must be bad. 
System works great now.
System works great now.
RiderSK
2
Re: CO2 - AirThings Monitor & Atmospheric Boiler
@Jamie Hall I updated the photo, this really is CO2, not CO. The AirThings monitor is in the finished part of the room.Exactly.
Are you suggesting that perhaps it is because air from other parts of the house is being pulled downstairs and thus increasing the CO2 while the boiler is running? I hadn't thought of that.
Re: Rinnai Tankless WH
@Tberg2374 You don't mention any codes showing up. Usually, if you are not getting what you ask it shows a code.
This leads me to believe that there might be a installation issue not related to the water heater.
You might want to the dip switch settings.
This leads me to believe that there might be a installation issue not related to the water heater.
You might want to the dip switch settings.
Intplm.
1
Re: Welded 6 inch header
The pattern I have seen with the Weil Mclain LGB steamers, which seem very sensitive to welded headers, is that boilers with welded offset 2 riser headers last about 14 years. Failure mode is almost always leaks between the sections at the seals. Boilers installed with 2 threaded risers and headers or smaller single risers sizes last about 24 years. I consider a 14 year life unacceptable and only the rich can afford the cheaper welded installations. On large boilers we use a welded header but with threaded drop risers, which allows all sorts of expansion and contraction. Also, the header drain and return going back into the boiler needs to be threaded in order to make this corrosion prone piping easier to replace in the future without the huge set up fee for a certified welder. Many installation diagrams also show required threaded joints here also so expansion and contraction of the piping doesn't stress the castings.
