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Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
This whole post reminds me of a book called Pumping Away, how that author had the audacity to take on an entire industry of all knowing boiler engineers about expansion tank placement.
How dare he!
Wait until the book banners in Florida get a of that wokeness
woke: a state of being aware
ChrisJ
6
Re: A Liittle R & R for a few hours...
What does "SPOILER" mean, Erin? Mad DogIt's just a feature that comes with the forum software and is mostly used in forums where they discuss movies and TV shows. It's used to hide/reveal parts of posts that can contain spoilers about the endings to shows, etc.
Re: Embassy Onxy
I tried to send pics via phone but not working. However, the resting PSI is 15.
I had "former" plumber's tech come and do service on unit, replacing ignition rods and flame sensor (annual stuff) and he tried to sell me on a gas valve; he's worked on unit for the past three years (usually it's the owner's son). I was miffed by this (he always seems to find something the unit needs-I never trusted him) and right after he left, the "harmonics" started. I immediately called the rep at Embassy here in Melville to get his opinion of the new development. He informed me that if the gas value was a problem it wouldn't be a slow process but it would go bad without warning. He indicated to me that the unit probably need a gas valve adjustment. This is when I called the new plumber. The new plumber didn't find anything wrong and of course when he came....no harmonics. It still makes the noise so when the rep comes tomorrow I will deal with that issue, but the water "dripping" concerned me which I hadn't noticed when the new guy came.
I will have him look at the expansion tank and discuss the backflow prevention valve vent and the high pressure safety valve (which seems to me that this is what it might be).
I appreciate your diagnostic impromptu and will give an update in case anyone else might experience the kinds of issues.
Thanks!
I had "former" plumber's tech come and do service on unit, replacing ignition rods and flame sensor (annual stuff) and he tried to sell me on a gas valve; he's worked on unit for the past three years (usually it's the owner's son). I was miffed by this (he always seems to find something the unit needs-I never trusted him) and right after he left, the "harmonics" started. I immediately called the rep at Embassy here in Melville to get his opinion of the new development. He informed me that if the gas value was a problem it wouldn't be a slow process but it would go bad without warning. He indicated to me that the unit probably need a gas valve adjustment. This is when I called the new plumber. The new plumber didn't find anything wrong and of course when he came....no harmonics. It still makes the noise so when the rep comes tomorrow I will deal with that issue, but the water "dripping" concerned me which I hadn't noticed when the new guy came.
I will have him look at the expansion tank and discuss the backflow prevention valve vent and the high pressure safety valve (which seems to me that this is what it might be).
I appreciate your diagnostic impromptu and will give an update in case anyone else might experience the kinds of issues.
Thanks!
GB 142, flameout at startup.
I’d like to address what seems to be a not uncommon issue with this boiler. I had the issue of watching at startup a gentle blue flame would be blown out by what I observed through the site glass as a wind. It would cycle through properly but code 6A, repeat and eventually lock out. I tried lots of different ideas suggested by this site and reading the manual.
I admit the boiler needed cleaning which I paid for but got an unsatisfactory job. I did it my self several times after learning the proper way. This did not cure the issue but was necessary anyway.
Holding my hand over the snorkel loosely at startup would get it to ignite. This act cut down the “wind” allowing it to ignite. Once I removed my hand it would stay lit but you could see the wind return.
It seemed to me I needed to find where the extra air was comming from. I wrapped the top of the chamber to seal that gasket with tape. It would not ignite. Next the bottom plate. Same result. I removed the tape each time so I was only dealing with one variable at a time. I lit the boiler using my hand to cover the snorkel again. Next I gently pushed on the fan motor. This totally changed the flame and calmed the air down. I took the assembly apart as far as I could given my tools at hand. What I realized was, there is a rubber bushing between the motor and fan housing that had dry rotted and the source if the extra air. I replaced the fan/motor assembly and it was good as new.
Just to let you know I did check to make sure the boiler had the correct set up as far as resistance and air/gas ratio was concerned. That all checked out.
I hope this helps someone else down the road. I spent many hours cleaning it and diagnosing it. Good luck. Be safe.
I admit the boiler needed cleaning which I paid for but got an unsatisfactory job. I did it my self several times after learning the proper way. This did not cure the issue but was necessary anyway.
Holding my hand over the snorkel loosely at startup would get it to ignite. This act cut down the “wind” allowing it to ignite. Once I removed my hand it would stay lit but you could see the wind return.
It seemed to me I needed to find where the extra air was comming from. I wrapped the top of the chamber to seal that gasket with tape. It would not ignite. Next the bottom plate. Same result. I removed the tape each time so I was only dealing with one variable at a time. I lit the boiler using my hand to cover the snorkel again. Next I gently pushed on the fan motor. This totally changed the flame and calmed the air down. I took the assembly apart as far as I could given my tools at hand. What I realized was, there is a rubber bushing between the motor and fan housing that had dry rotted and the source if the extra air. I replaced the fan/motor assembly and it was good as new.
Just to let you know I did check to make sure the boiler had the correct set up as far as resistance and air/gas ratio was concerned. That all checked out.
I hope this helps someone else down the road. I spent many hours cleaning it and diagnosing it. Good luck. Be safe.
flameout
3
Differential pressure bypass vs balancing valve (vs maybe a dP pump)
Hi All
I am designing a manifold system for low temp radiant loops. The current design includes 8 loops, which would cover the whole house (upper floors, not basement, approx 1800sq ft). However, the plan is not to install all loops at once. I have two loops installed (done during renovations) and ready to be hooked up. I designed the manifold to accommodate the whole house so that in the future, the existing radiators could be taken offline and replaced with radiant loops.
All loops will have individual balancing valves.
Because the system will be sized for the whole output, but only running a few loops initially, I want to include a a differential bypass between the supply and return. It seems to me, that a balancing valve could accomplish the same thing, just not automated. The advantage of the balancing valve is no moving parts (theoretically more reliable), cheaper initial cost and more compact (easier to integrate into my design). The downside is that I would have to adjust it manually each time I added a loop. I am ok with this and maybe even prefer it as it would be one less thing to diagnose if issues come up.
Alternatively, I could install a dP pump. My hangup here is that I am not using zone valves, so it seems like a waste. The plan is to balance the system using balancing valves and maintain a constant temp throughout the home. Once the flow is set, it should not need adjustment until another loop is added.
Am I missing any details about what a DPV offers over a balancing valve? Do they truly accomplish the same thing?
I am designing a manifold system for low temp radiant loops. The current design includes 8 loops, which would cover the whole house (upper floors, not basement, approx 1800sq ft). However, the plan is not to install all loops at once. I have two loops installed (done during renovations) and ready to be hooked up. I designed the manifold to accommodate the whole house so that in the future, the existing radiators could be taken offline and replaced with radiant loops.
All loops will have individual balancing valves.
Because the system will be sized for the whole output, but only running a few loops initially, I want to include a a differential bypass between the supply and return. It seems to me, that a balancing valve could accomplish the same thing, just not automated. The advantage of the balancing valve is no moving parts (theoretically more reliable), cheaper initial cost and more compact (easier to integrate into my design). The downside is that I would have to adjust it manually each time I added a loop. I am ok with this and maybe even prefer it as it would be one less thing to diagnose if issues come up.
Alternatively, I could install a dP pump. My hangup here is that I am not using zone valves, so it seems like a waste. The plan is to balance the system using balancing valves and maintain a constant temp throughout the home. Once the flow is set, it should not need adjustment until another loop is added.
Am I missing any details about what a DPV offers over a balancing valve? Do they truly accomplish the same thing?
Re: Triangle Tube Prestige heat exchanger corrosion
@dleihs
If you could XXXX out your pricing, this site doesn't like to advertise pricing given from contractors for work performed, sharing material cost from publicly available places is fine. I would go with a new boiler, with new warranty, seek out a couple of proposals as this is going to be a large investment.
It does look like the installer was trying to separate those pipes, however from my eye it doesn't look like the separation meets the minimum recommended and that separation distance has changed a bit as manufacturers learned a bit more about how these perform in the real world. I could see it being possible that the exhaust makes its way back into the intake, this can happen over time and deteriorate components in the boiler and cause poor combustion.
for your reference I am attaching some pictures of a fouled venturi from an older Prestige boiler I think it was a SOLO 60, this one was recirculating for around 13 years or so before the foghorn sound started. I keep this to show newer service techs that haven't dealt with this issue before
This picture shows the part you can see while the venturi is installed, you can see it is a bit rough looking, it should be real smooth.
after taking it apart this is what was found
If you could XXXX out your pricing, this site doesn't like to advertise pricing given from contractors for work performed, sharing material cost from publicly available places is fine. I would go with a new boiler, with new warranty, seek out a couple of proposals as this is going to be a large investment.
It does look like the installer was trying to separate those pipes, however from my eye it doesn't look like the separation meets the minimum recommended and that separation distance has changed a bit as manufacturers learned a bit more about how these perform in the real world. I could see it being possible that the exhaust makes its way back into the intake, this can happen over time and deteriorate components in the boiler and cause poor combustion.
for your reference I am attaching some pictures of a fouled venturi from an older Prestige boiler I think it was a SOLO 60, this one was recirculating for around 13 years or so before the foghorn sound started. I keep this to show newer service techs that haven't dealt with this issue before
This picture shows the part you can see while the venturi is installed, you can see it is a bit rough looking, it should be real smooth.
after taking it apart this is what was found
GGross
3
Re: BlueRidge Company radiant heat
Any reason you wouldn't use Uponor Jake? I never heard of them. Mad Dog
Burnham BaseRay 9A assembly tool.
This one has been used a lot. It’s a beast though and in great shape.
$225.00 plus shipping. 
Problems after using Biofuel for the first time
I filled my 275 gallon tank for the first time with B20 fuel. The very next day, the heat did not turn on automatically. I pressed the reset on the Riello 40 F5 and it started and worked fine the whole day. Same routine the next day. And the next. For the next few weeks, it might have worked on it's own a few times. But usually would start right up once reset. Another thing I noticed was that the smell of oil was stronger than I ever noticed.
I was told by an oil dealer that since Biofuel has different chemical properties that makes it cleaner and it also has solvent properties, it probably dissolved some of the built in sludge on the walls of my very old oil tank. This in turned may have clogged the oil filter that was just changed a few months prior. So I changed both filters on my own and saw that the first filter was much dirtier than the second filter. If it was dirtier than normal, I don't know since I've never changed the filter myself before. The next day, it started on it's own. I did it! Patted myself on the back. Was fine for the next few days, then back to mostly NOT working. I also noticed that pressing the reset button now resulted in a 20-30 delay in spraying, and it got worse a couple of days later where it took 2-3 minutes before spraying.
As I said, the filters and nozzle were changed a few months prior by an HVAC tech. Is he qualified to diagnose the situation? Any clues as to what is happening?
Thanks!
I was told by an oil dealer that since Biofuel has different chemical properties that makes it cleaner and it also has solvent properties, it probably dissolved some of the built in sludge on the walls of my very old oil tank. This in turned may have clogged the oil filter that was just changed a few months prior. So I changed both filters on my own and saw that the first filter was much dirtier than the second filter. If it was dirtier than normal, I don't know since I've never changed the filter myself before. The next day, it started on it's own. I did it! Patted myself on the back. Was fine for the next few days, then back to mostly NOT working. I also noticed that pressing the reset button now resulted in a 20-30 delay in spraying, and it got worse a couple of days later where it took 2-3 minutes before spraying.
As I said, the filters and nozzle were changed a few months prior by an HVAC tech. Is he qualified to diagnose the situation? Any clues as to what is happening?
Thanks!
mitchxy
2