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Blocked Chimney Disaster
Hi everybody, I recently had a disaster at my house. Hired a chimney contractor to install a small wood/coal stove. They totally botched the job. In one of their attempts to fix a downdraft problem, they put a mickey mouse extension on the oil flue and placed the vent cap on way to low which partially obstructed the flue causing fumes to backup into the house over a 5 week period. Entire house is now contaminated and so is everything in that we own. My family is now forced to huddle in a camper in our driveway because the house is unlivable. The smell in the house at first was a very pungent, rancid and putrid odor you could imagine. It resembled a chloroform/ether/formaldehyde odor. Along with a biting salty acidic taste which would make your lips sting and burn your throat. ServiceMaster is coming to clean the house but we lost all our food, bedding, clothes, furniture, rugs etc... At this point, the smell has morphed into a salt like particulate hanging in the air. I'm hoping they can get the house back to normal, but my main concern and question is: Can this have any long term deteriorating effects on other mechanical systems in the house such as: plumbing, electrical, duct work etc...? All advice welcome. We are in a desperate situation. Thank you.
sparkie
1
Re: Steam boiler not working correctly
I saw that thread which seems like he had a similar system he removed. Not sure if he also had a 2 pipe system.reggi said:
Now I'm wondering if the system needs to have lots of main vents installed on the return lines.
Dave8699
1
Re: Honeywell supervent
Does it keep pressure if you turn off the valve to the make up water supply? Air doesn't just appear in a system, it has to come from somewhere. The 2 biggest suspects would be there is a leak somewhere and the air is coming from that fresh water that is replacing it or the diaphragm in the expansion tank is leaking.
mattmia2
1
Re: Splitting a Rad
It would probably be better to use some big pipe clamps and blocks of wood to pull it together than the tension rods. They are really just to hold it together, not to pull it together.
mattmia2
3
Re: Splitting a Rad
Permatex bonds in to the surface a little better than regular rtv silicone.
mattmia2
2
Re: Splitting a Rad
I split many radiators and put them back together without replacing the push nipples unless they were deteriorated, then you must replace them. Instead of permatex, I used RTV silicone. Worked for me.
Re: upstairs steam radiators spurting water
The system may produce the same amount of condensate when cold, but it will certainly be differently distributed. It's quite common for steam systems with pipe pitch problems to hammer and gurgle on a cold start, and quiet down as they warm up.That's because on startup the water sitting in the low spots is cold, so it causes hammer. As it warms up, it won't collapse the steam, and the hammer goes away.
The level of condensate in any steam pipe is very small. There is no condition in a residential steam system where the pipes will be overwhelmed by condensation at various times in the heating cycle, I assert.
I have a sight glass on my return and it's very obvious once you actually see how little water is returning. Granted, my system is small, but larger systems have larger pipes.
Mod Con Buffer Tank for Short Cycling?
I’m looking for some advice regarding the best approach to address potential short cycling I anticipate with my new mod-con, 11 zone, radiant underfloor plated + slab heating system.
I am concerned that the 17,000 btu difference between the boiler's minimum 18,000 btu output and 1300 btu load from bathroom floor radiant will result in short cycling.
If a buffer is the best way to go to address this problem, the calculations indicate a 30 gallon buffer would give me a 10 minute boiler run time.
Considering my primary concern is to prevent short cycling while getting the best possible efficiency from my mod-con, what is the best way to pipe this buffer (2,3,4); and consequently, what should control the boiler (buffer or thermostats)?
I am concerned that the 17,000 btu difference between the boiler's minimum 18,000 btu output and 1300 btu load from bathroom floor radiant will result in short cycling.
If a buffer is the best way to go to address this problem, the calculations indicate a 30 gallon buffer would give me a 10 minute boiler run time.
Considering my primary concern is to prevent short cycling while getting the best possible efficiency from my mod-con, what is the best way to pipe this buffer (2,3,4); and consequently, what should control the boiler (buffer or thermostats)?
Burnham series 2 short cycling?
I just got a brand new burnham series 2 model 204E installed forced hot water. I think it has a short cycling issue. I have been monitoring and it goes through stretches of firing for 3 to 4 minutes then off for 15 - 20 minutes, which I think is normal firing. Then it seems it goes through stretches, mainly when the outside temperature drops, of average 5 minutes off and firing from 1 to 2 minutes, over and over. I noticed during the "normal firing" it would fire for literally 15 seconds a minute or two after the firing cycle, almost like a hiccup right after. All in all when it is "short cycling" it seems to fire about 8 times an hour for 1 to 3 minutes. I have heard that Burnham series 2 boilers are notorious to go on off a lot and it is normal but then every article I read says this is short cycling.
We already had the installers change out the thermostats, so that is not the issue.
We have a 2 zone ranch style house, main floor and finished basement, about a 1000 square feet both thermostats seem to be in ideal locations. On the boiler it will reach 180 degrees on firing and shut off. It seems to fire on its own when it hits around 140 to150 or so.
when it short cycles it seems to fire any temp even almost at 170. The PSI are hovering at 20. Everything else seems in working condition
Maybe this is normal for this type of boiler or maybe there is a defect internally or some kind of setting adjustment the installers can make. I am hoping to have this boiler last the life span of 15 years, but it seems short cycling can reduce that dramatically.
If there is any other information I can provide please let me know.
Thanks!
We already had the installers change out the thermostats, so that is not the issue.
We have a 2 zone ranch style house, main floor and finished basement, about a 1000 square feet both thermostats seem to be in ideal locations. On the boiler it will reach 180 degrees on firing and shut off. It seems to fire on its own when it hits around 140 to150 or so.
when it short cycles it seems to fire any temp even almost at 170. The PSI are hovering at 20. Everything else seems in working condition
Maybe this is normal for this type of boiler or maybe there is a defect internally or some kind of setting adjustment the installers can make. I am hoping to have this boiler last the life span of 15 years, but it seems short cycling can reduce that dramatically.
If there is any other information I can provide please let me know.
Thanks!
cass72
1