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Re: Looking for help in south central kansas
Mkflyy said:
Grundfos UPS26-99FC Is the second added pump between the return manifold and water heater the other pump after expansion tank is a a grundfos up 15-42. Today I completely took the system apart to make sure there wasn’t an obstruction or something. I am using a 1/2 hp cast iron inline pump to fill and purge the system. I went through and did every loop individually after to starting with just the system loop then doing each individual loop. At this point I’m not opposed to adding a boiler but they are very expensive. I obviously don’t know what I am doing to install it either. Sounds like I would want a primary and secondary loop and I have looked at several diagrams and I can’t make sense of it and how I would add one to my system. So the last thing I want to do is buy a $2500 boiler and still not be able to get it to work. I also don’t have natural gas or LP only electric. That’s why I opted for this system.
Regardless of what's wrong, it must be corrected. First is, it needs to be an electric boiler, not an on demand water heater.
Then simply follow the boiler manufacturer piping instructions, and you'll be good to go.
HVACNUT
1
Re: Are there seriously no leveling shims I can just buy?
Plastic checkers. You get to choose the color.
Re: 2 Pressuretrol Cut-Ins and 1 Cut Out?
A modulating burner would be wonderful. Unfortunately, your burner cannot really be retrofitted to modulate. In simple terms, Powerflame produces three type of gas power burner that would likely fit your boiler. On/off is what you have, low/high/low is the next step up and fully modulating is the top of the line version.
The advantage of low/high/low firing is there is a small flame at start, high fire until roughly 1psi steam pressure, and back to low fire until the call for heat is satisfied or the pressure goes above say 2psi. With modulating burners, the flame (in theory) stays on even longer and you get more even heating and less short cycling. Ideally, a modulating burner would allow the boiler water to "simmer" all day like the coal boilers did a hundred years ago. With modulating burners you need a special pressure control that sends a variable (modulating) signal to the burner. We don't talk specifics about pricing, but I would guess a special order modulating burner with controls would cost you more than double the cost of the existing burner.
The advantage of low/high/low firing is there is a small flame at start, high fire until roughly 1psi steam pressure, and back to low fire until the call for heat is satisfied or the pressure goes above say 2psi. With modulating burners, the flame (in theory) stays on even longer and you get more even heating and less short cycling. Ideally, a modulating burner would allow the boiler water to "simmer" all day like the coal boilers did a hundred years ago. With modulating burners you need a special pressure control that sends a variable (modulating) signal to the burner. We don't talk specifics about pricing, but I would guess a special order modulating burner with controls would cost you more than double the cost of the existing burner.
Re: Water line over 2” drop
Hello @trivetman,
I kind of wonder if you are trapping water in the main, probably should be an eccentric coupling or changed so it drains properly.
I kind of wonder if you are trapping water in the main, probably should be an eccentric coupling or changed so it drains properly.
109A_5
1
Re: 2 Pressuretrol Cut-Ins and 1 Cut Out?
The previous owners did a remodel and added radiant water heating in the back part first floor. That is why the current boiler is oversized (took out probably 2-3 large radiators).reggi said:What is the spare boiler for ?
Re: Cleaning my SEP4 - how often?
try once a month and see what comes out. Usually the first few months clears up most of the particles, then maybe a yearly flush
Flush into a bucket to see what flows out. If it always flows black colored you still have magnetite particles swimming around
Be sure the fill valve us working and on when you flush
When it finally runs clean, maybe squirt a hydronic conditioner into the system , to stop further corrosion, or at least slow it down
Flush into a bucket to see what flows out. If it always flows black colored you still have magnetite particles swimming around
Be sure the fill valve us working and on when you flush
When it finally runs clean, maybe squirt a hydronic conditioner into the system , to stop further corrosion, or at least slow it down
hot_rod
1
Re: Repeated Air in Fuel/Fuel Line
A little over a week ago, a tech was out for an annual tune up. Everything was fine, but we did discover that a draft inducer on the flue (weird routing requires it) was not actually powered. Tech used the unused "valve" terminal on the controller to power it. Worked great.
This is actually incorrect use of the valve terminal. The motor terminal should power the inducer along with a proving switch of some type. the proving switch will then allow the burner motor to start. with your set up on the "valve Terminal" operating the inducer, the control can get incorrect diagnostic information from a problem with the inducer.
Re: Replace radiator in a tiny room with a riser?
Sure, try it, but I would think with the much smaller amount of radiation from just a pipe you will probably want a vent on it so that it fills with steam faster.
Need help in Westchester County, NY
I heat my home with an old HydroTherm HC125B furnace that was in it when I bought the house 5 years ago. Came the first Winter, it turned on and kept us warm. We replaced the old thermostat with a Nest Learning one, and it has made things even better as it "learned"our habits and now we stay warm when we are in our home and active. Our HydroTherm continues to work well. The problem is that we cannot get it serviced. Most of the local service companies only want to do full replacement, but not yearly service. Not enough $$ for them to bother. If they come, it's the same story " Oh, that unit is too old, you need to replace it". So please, if anyone knows of a New York City area that will service my good old HydroTherm, please contact me.
Re: T-87 mercury replacement
I would highly recommend raising the temperature a couple of degrees and see what that does. The old mercury thermostats were not always installed perfectly level nor calibrated perfectly. I believe it’s very likely that your old stat was keeping your house warmer than what you thought. It’s not uncommon to see those 4 to 5 degrees off. And I have seen heat anticipator issues on those as well, so while not common, the old stat could have indeed been bad.
Matt_67
3