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Re: Punctured Kitec Pex-Al-Pex lines - best path forward?
You need to find the Kitec specific coupling. Or a transition coupling to go to cts size Pex.
You might shop e bay, someone has a stash of them.
However, the thin o rings on Kitec fittings would go bad after storing them for years. They crack and crumble when you try to use them. You need two good soft o rings for them to seal. And chamfer the ID of the tube will to insert the fitting, with some lube. Or you roll the o ring out of the groove.
I scrapped a 5 gallon bucket of old Kitec fittings once the word got out about the dezincification issues. Plus all the o rings were cracking.
Maybe shop some of the online Euro sites, I think a 7mm compression fitting may work. PAP compression fittings will have a brass, not plastic ferrule. A standard pex compression fitting will not work on PAP, even if you find the correct ID and OD.
Caleffi still offers PAP compression fittings, but I’ve checked in the past, the Kitec is just too large of an OD to fit
If the company I mentioned above has 3/8 couplings, that is where I would got. Tolerances are correct and you get fresh o- rings😏
You might shop e bay, someone has a stash of them.
However, the thin o rings on Kitec fittings would go bad after storing them for years. They crack and crumble when you try to use them. You need two good soft o rings for them to seal. And chamfer the ID of the tube will to insert the fitting, with some lube. Or you roll the o ring out of the groove.
I scrapped a 5 gallon bucket of old Kitec fittings once the word got out about the dezincification issues. Plus all the o rings were cracking.
Maybe shop some of the online Euro sites, I think a 7mm compression fitting may work. PAP compression fittings will have a brass, not plastic ferrule. A standard pex compression fitting will not work on PAP, even if you find the correct ID and OD.
Caleffi still offers PAP compression fittings, but I’ve checked in the past, the Kitec is just too large of an OD to fit
If the company I mentioned above has 3/8 couplings, that is where I would got. Tolerances are correct and you get fresh o- rings😏
hot_rod
2
Re: Is the pump dying?
I think the PSC motor Star series exists just for the US market. Most everywhere else has gone all ECM technology.
I keep hearing the DOE is going to phase out fractional HP PSC type pump motors and require all ECM. But that date keeps getting pushed out. I've heard by 2025 lately.
If you have more than one zone an ECM in delta P mode will save operating cost and allow your system to have cruise control. The pump with automatically adjust itself to changing flow requirements.
Probably find that Star or equivalent brand on e-bay for cheap
Generally expired date code stuff.
I keep hearing the DOE is going to phase out fractional HP PSC type pump motors and require all ECM. But that date keeps getting pushed out. I've heard by 2025 lately.
If you have more than one zone an ECM in delta P mode will save operating cost and allow your system to have cruise control. The pump with automatically adjust itself to changing flow requirements.
Probably find that Star or equivalent brand on e-bay for cheap
hot_rod
1
Re: Anyone ever seen this style steam rad?
@SKYPAINTER Your comment was made under the premise of being the "devil's advocate". On that basis, you are well qualified. However, you seemed to be not so qualified on the basis of science or engineering, other than the assumption that "new is good and old is bad".
If you are going to figure "efficiency", you need to know on what basis you are figuring. On the basis of amount of heat coming out of a radiator compared to the amount going in, the efficiency of the radiator is 100%. Yes, 100% efficient.
If you are going to figure "efficiency", you need to know on what basis you are figuring. On the basis of amount of heat coming out of a radiator compared to the amount going in, the efficiency of the radiator is 100%. Yes, 100% efficient.
Re: High Efficiency Exhaust Facing up OK?
That tight 90 deg turn adds more restriction then a sweep 90 degree.
pecmsg
1
Re: High Efficiency Exhaust Facing up OK?
Concentric vents exhausting out of roofs always face up. Never an issue because the exhaust is also a drain. Check the installation manual though because some manufacturers spec an inline Tee with a drain on the horizontal run. Manufacturers are very specific on venting. It's all in the book.
HVACNUT
2
Re: NEST With Two Wires
Here's a really 'way outside of the box' work-around to using resistors that you may find acceptable:
Install an ecobee thermostat in the boiler room (where you can run the Common wire easily).
Place one of the remote 'Smart Sensors' in whatever room you wish. They are wireless & simply get plunked down somewhere.
It will use the temperature in that room to turn the heating/cooling on and off. (Set point)
You can install more than one sensor per thermostat. They can be set to "follow" you around, using whatever room you are in as the thermostat set point.
Manual adjustments to the thermostat (temperature +/-, fan on-off, schedules, heat-cool-off-auto, etc) are done with the phone or computer or tablet.
This is just an idea to help you get out of using resistors.
Paul
Install an ecobee thermostat in the boiler room (where you can run the Common wire easily).
Place one of the remote 'Smart Sensors' in whatever room you wish. They are wireless & simply get plunked down somewhere.
It will use the temperature in that room to turn the heating/cooling on and off. (Set point)
You can install more than one sensor per thermostat. They can be set to "follow" you around, using whatever room you are in as the thermostat set point.
Manual adjustments to the thermostat (temperature +/-, fan on-off, schedules, heat-cool-off-auto, etc) are done with the phone or computer or tablet.
This is just an idea to help you get out of using resistors.
Paul
2
Re: Expansion tanks going bad very quickly…
The OP calls themself @Heatintheboat... Is this system on a BOAT? Are you running sea water in the system? That might explain a lot. Especially if the system is serviced by a boat yard mechanic. The are not familiar with this stuff.
Re: can manual isolation or zone valves control heat?
It may be possible to add zone control, really need to see the piping to know for sure.
For now you can try closing down the dampers on the baseboard in the rooms that you want less heat.
The damper is the long metal strip at the top of the fin tube baseboard, it should rotate to open, closed or in between to adjust the output.
Here is an example of a common fin tube from Slant Fin. #4 shows the damper operation.
For now you can try closing down the dampers on the baseboard in the rooms that you want less heat.
The damper is the long metal strip at the top of the fin tube baseboard, it should rotate to open, closed or in between to adjust the output.
Here is an example of a common fin tube from Slant Fin. #4 shows the damper operation.
hot_rod
3
Re: Energy kinetics boiler type for me?
Joe
Please reach out to me at your convenience, happy to answer any questions you have.
Please reach out to me at your convenience, happy to answer any questions you have.
1
Re: Input needed on heating upgrade / conversion
Your current system has two heating zones. Assuming this is hot water, not steam, it should be a simple matter to replace the two boilers with one boiler that has two circulators or two zone valves, and keep those two zones as they are. This will cost less than installing two new boilers and keep you just as comfortable.
The new boiler should be sized according to the current heat loss of the house, and will probably be quite a bit smaller than the capacity of the existing boilers combined. As noted above, oversized equipment is very common.
You need to find a contractor willing to do a heat loss calculation. Too many don't. Try the "find a contractor" tool on this site.
The new boiler should be sized according to the current heat loss of the house, and will probably be quite a bit smaller than the capacity of the existing boilers combined. As noted above, oversized equipment is very common.
You need to find a contractor willing to do a heat loss calculation. Too many don't. Try the "find a contractor" tool on this site.
bburd
1

