Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!
Best Of
Re: Do I need to have this redone? Should I? Attic Installation LG Low Static Ducted Heat Pump
Agreed and I’ll add where’s the line set loopworldclasshvac said:Complete hack install. I see this all the time. Unit needs to be suspended as the access for most repairs is underneath the unit. All ducts should be hard piped sheet metal with flex the last few feet to the register box. Id bet nothing is sealed well or taped/mastic. This is a slam it in fast and it works were done type of install
pecmsg
1
Re: Knight inducer fan keeps failing
Here is the fan on a smaller Knight. It pulls intake air and a gas mix from a negative pressure gas valve, pushes into the combustion chamber. They run a bit warmer than the boiler temperature on the aluminum housing.
It sounds like a bad bearing, if it is pulling in clean fresh air?
It sounds like a bad bearing, if it is pulling in clean fresh air?
hot_rod
1
Re: Input needed on heating upgrade / conversion
Can we assume this is a hot water system as apposed to a steam system? If that's the case I think the simpler the better. Keep the radiators and install a new boiler or two, depending on the use of the building.
If there is enough radiation installed this would be IMO a good time to consider a modulation condensing boiler of the appropriate size. These can be easily zoned at each radiator or at each zone.
If there is enough radiation installed this would be IMO a good time to consider a modulation condensing boiler of the appropriate size. These can be easily zoned at each radiator or at each zone.
Grallert
1
Re: Fosta Pex Sludge
a Bump of all Bumps----any other Fosta pex issues out there? We just did a job with Fosta running to the attic--had a rough time purging the lines. I ate some more labor.
GW
1
Re: Fosta Pex Sludge
I spent 4 hours at a friends house purging 1/2” fosta runs. Previous owner converted from electric to hydronic. They must have went with 1/2 to save money. Either way, a lot of air and chemicals got the loops to finally heat. Added a dirt magnet to continue with the chemicals.
jpulls11
1
Re: McDonnell miller 47-2 overfilling boiler
@109A_5
Good catch, I found the valve on eBay, but the flow was reversed. I reversed the plumbing to accommodate it. After observing the operation of the M&M for the past week, it seems that the unit is operating correctly. The problem happens during the longest run the boiler has, first thing in the morning. Typically the boiler runs for about an hour and a half in the morning. The level starts off good, during the run the water level gets low (not enough to shut down the furnace) and the M&M adds water. After the furnace shuts down water starts to come back to the boiler, raising the water level up past the sight glass. All that happens within 5 minutes of shut down. I think if I stopped the flow of water to the M&M after the furnace starts then let the water flow again 10 minutes after the cycle ends it may solve the problem.
Good catch, I found the valve on eBay, but the flow was reversed. I reversed the plumbing to accommodate it. After observing the operation of the M&M for the past week, it seems that the unit is operating correctly. The problem happens during the longest run the boiler has, first thing in the morning. Typically the boiler runs for about an hour and a half in the morning. The level starts off good, during the run the water level gets low (not enough to shut down the furnace) and the M&M adds water. After the furnace shuts down water starts to come back to the boiler, raising the water level up past the sight glass. All that happens within 5 minutes of shut down. I think if I stopped the flow of water to the M&M after the furnace starts then let the water flow again 10 minutes after the cycle ends it may solve the problem.
Re: Help me with the basics
@EdTheHeaterMan They have an SL10-85 G3 model that will modulate down to 10K BTU’s.
I had a 50,000 BTU Munchkin in my 1,200 [] house with a 50 gal. indirect for 15 years until the HX started leaking with plenty of DHW for me and the wife.
Re: Water trickling sound after boiler turns off - normal?
It would be normal for your system. If the installer followed the instructions.
Edit: Found better illustration for YOUR boiler.
That noise might not be so obvious. But there would still be condensation returning to the boiler, so it may not go away completely.
Edit: Found better illustration for YOUR boiler.
That noise might not be so obvious. But there would still be condensation returning to the boiler, so it may not go away completely.
Re: Water trickling sound after boiler turns off - normal?
@EdTheHeaterMan did you modify that picture?No I didn't, that is out of a newer version. I thought that was odd also, but I found a better illustration that better matches the OP's boiler. Here is the original illustration from my post so folks know what your are talking about. But it looks like it should work as a second or alternate main location as far as steam and condensate are concerned.
(surprised to see that bullhead at the end of the header)
It's on page 11 of this document.
Re: Help me with the basics
i would recommend a boiler like a lochinvar knight. With the knight you can wire in the 3 zones directly to the boiler and you can adjust each zone to different heat outputs, meaning different loop temperatures. Having an unbalanced system could be caused by not having enough baseboard or too much. With each zone connected to the lochinvar smart control they can have different loop supply temperatures which can help the required BTU output.
pedmec
2