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Re: Advice for replacing torn Flex with metal ducts
According to an employee of mine that moved back to NJ from Florida, it seems that the thicker metal screws are required in Florida to connect the metal duct work to the next duct. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Malco-BT143T-3-4-Length-5-16-Head-Size-Bit-Tip-Drill-Tap-Screws-500-Pack?_br_psugg_q=sheet+metal+screws On 14" diameter I belierve you need at least 5 screws around the seam. I would suggest that you purchase mastic tape fr each joint connection. It's more expensive than the paint on mastic but less mess. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-89-in-x-33-9-yd-Foilmastic-Sealant-Duct-Tape-1542730/302091382 Cover each seem of duct work to make an interior vapor barrier to the insulation.
For insulating the exterior of the 14" round duct, I would just purchase a box (or bag) of 14" flex with R8 insulation. 25 foot long sleeve of insulation can be pulled over the metal duct by just putting the flex over the Crimp end of the duct. then pulling the sleeve over the metal duct and pushing the interior flex liner out the other end.
I do this because sometimes the 5ft sections of R8 sleeve is ofter the same price or even more expensive than the flex duct that comes with the 25 foot section of insulation, and there are less seems to tape together to secure the exterior vapor barrier to the next seam. Also it is easier to slide the sleeve over the edge of the metal duct when you tape the inner sleeve on to the metal duct. https://www.supplyhouse.com/HC-Flex-27831-14-x-25-F218-Insulated-Flex-Duct-Silver-Jacket
5 of these cost more than one 14" flex duct https://www.supplyhouse.com/HC-Flex-553283-14-x-5-F208-Sleeve-Silver and they need to be special ordered.
For insulating the exterior of the 14" round duct, I would just purchase a box (or bag) of 14" flex with R8 insulation. 25 foot long sleeve of insulation can be pulled over the metal duct by just putting the flex over the Crimp end of the duct. then pulling the sleeve over the metal duct and pushing the interior flex liner out the other end.
I do this because sometimes the 5ft sections of R8 sleeve is ofter the same price or even more expensive than the flex duct that comes with the 25 foot section of insulation, and there are less seems to tape together to secure the exterior vapor barrier to the next seam. Also it is easier to slide the sleeve over the edge of the metal duct when you tape the inner sleeve on to the metal duct. https://www.supplyhouse.com/HC-Flex-27831-14-x-25-F218-Insulated-Flex-Duct-Silver-Jacket
5 of these cost more than one 14" flex duct https://www.supplyhouse.com/HC-Flex-553283-14-x-5-F208-Sleeve-Silver and they need to be special ordered.
Re: Gorton air vent quality
Gordo,
I do not have time to do a video but I have pictures and instructions:
To unseal Vents:
1] Remove al pipe tape or sealant from vents to be tested. In the case of 1/8” radiator vents clean with alcohol
and wipe vent treads with a cloth with thin coat of cutting fluid. Check to see if threads are damaged
2] Attach Vent to the surface of hot plate .
In the case of 1/8” vents screw the vent into hot plate 1/8” NPT tapped hole until the top of vent makes
contact with surface. If the vent feels tight do not force it, the trends are damaged.
In the case of 1/4 “, 1/2 “ and 3/4 “ straight vents. Insert screws into 2 of the 3 10-32 screws to the
hot plate tapped holes. Place the vent up against the two screws. Then insert the third screw. Adjust the
screw depth so that they hold the vent by the case lid cover only not the case
3] Turn on the hot plate. Set the temperature to 550F or 290C
4] When case temperature is at set temperature remove vent case from lid which is held in place by the
screws In the case of radiator vents, 1/4 “ and 3/4 “ straight vents use a vice grip to attach to case and
remove it by rocking it back and forth . In the case of large 1/2 straight vents, use Jersey gloves to rock
the case off of the lid by holding the 1/2 “ connector.
To Reseal Vents:
1] Place lid on plate and make sure it is positioned properly so that when it attached it is right side up.
Make sure that there is enough solder inside the lid surface to seal without leaking. Especially with
radiator vents.
2] Remove any solder from the edge of the case with a file
3] Place the case on top of the lid.. Verify that it is properly lined up. You will not get it on completely
straight
4] Turn on hot plate. Set temperature to 550F or 290 C
5] When case temperature is at set temperature, using force carefully place the case into the lid . For
large vents use gloves. For others you can use either gloves or vice grips.
5] Small vents may require that you add solder along the rim areas to get a good seal
6] Turn off hot plate and remove after vent cools use a blower to cut time.
Those G2s do give off paint fumes so I would not do this inside unless you have good ventilation.
I do not have time to do a video but I have pictures and instructions:
To unseal Vents:
1] Remove al pipe tape or sealant from vents to be tested. In the case of 1/8” radiator vents clean with alcohol
and wipe vent treads with a cloth with thin coat of cutting fluid. Check to see if threads are damaged
2] Attach Vent to the surface of hot plate .
In the case of 1/8” vents screw the vent into hot plate 1/8” NPT tapped hole until the top of vent makes
contact with surface. If the vent feels tight do not force it, the trends are damaged.
In the case of 1/4 “, 1/2 “ and 3/4 “ straight vents. Insert screws into 2 of the 3 10-32 screws to the
hot plate tapped holes. Place the vent up against the two screws. Then insert the third screw. Adjust the
screw depth so that they hold the vent by the case lid cover only not the case
3] Turn on the hot plate. Set the temperature to 550F or 290C
4] When case temperature is at set temperature remove vent case from lid which is held in place by the
screws In the case of radiator vents, 1/4 “ and 3/4 “ straight vents use a vice grip to attach to case and
remove it by rocking it back and forth . In the case of large 1/2 straight vents, use Jersey gloves to rock
the case off of the lid by holding the 1/2 “ connector.
To Reseal Vents:
1] Place lid on plate and make sure it is positioned properly so that when it attached it is right side up.
Make sure that there is enough solder inside the lid surface to seal without leaking. Especially with
radiator vents.
2] Remove any solder from the edge of the case with a file
3] Place the case on top of the lid.. Verify that it is properly lined up. You will not get it on completely
straight
4] Turn on hot plate. Set temperature to 550F or 290 C
5] When case temperature is at set temperature, using force carefully place the case into the lid . For
large vents use gloves. For others you can use either gloves or vice grips.
5] Small vents may require that you add solder along the rim areas to get a good seal
6] Turn off hot plate and remove after vent cools use a blower to cut time.
Those G2s do give off paint fumes so I would not do this inside unless you have good ventilation.
Re: What about HTP floor boiler system with the large tub of water--comments please
How about providing the model that you’re referring to?
Ironman
5
Re: The case of the lowered steam pressure, this Friday's case.
Some Iron Fireman History,
In 1923 Thomas Harry Banfield and Cyrus Jury Parker took over an iron works in Portland, Oregon that was manufacturing a small coal stoker. The stoker didn’t work very well, so the men redesigned it and named it the Iron Fireman. It became a commercial success relatively quickly. Coal was an economical heat source, and the Iron Fireman filled a need for automatic control of residential coal fired systems. It could be fitted to an existing furnace or used as the workings of a new one. Parker became the president of the firm. In 1928 both men were involved in an air crash which claimed the life of Parker. Banfield recovered and succeeded him in company leadership.
By the time World War II broke out the firm had manufacturing facilities in Cleveland, Ohio and Toronto, Canada as well as the Portland facility. Their factories were pressed into war service making engines for Liberty ships, and they won the Maritime “M” award given to only about 3% of the manufacturers supporting the war’s maritime effort.
Following the war the company developed oil fired burners at their Cleveland facility, and consolidated the business to that location. The Whirlpower light commercial series (developed by Fred Runninger) and the A series atomizers (developed by Charlie Schrade) had their roots in that work. By 1960 Iron Fireman had a commanding presence in commercial power burner sales – reportedly about 60% of the US market. The coal stoker business was sold to the Will-Burt company. The oil burner business was bought by Space Comfort, a California firm, who relocated it to a new factory in Harrisonburg, Virginia, complete with palm trees in front of the building. The facility attracted the attention of the Garrett AiResearch division of Allied Signal, who was putting together an HVAC conglomerate to gain federal energy grants for the development of solar powered air conditioning. Garrett also purchased Dunham-Bush, a refrigeration and air conditioning firm, moved them into the factory with Iron Fireman and changed the focus of the business.
The 1980’s saw development of the EED burner (by Neil Rampley) and the Constant Flow fuel system (by Larry Gray) for meeting New York City’s stringent rules for firing rate limitation, where Iron Fireman had considerable sales success.
In 2000 Iron Fireman was acquired by Vapor Power, who moved operations to Franklin Park, Illinois, where they operated until production ceased in December 2011.
On Dec. 31st, 2011, the owners of Iron Fireman ceased burner production and sold all remaining assets of the Iron Fireman business to OEM Boiler Parts Inc., of Elizabethtown, PA- including all engineering and sales records, parts inventory and production tooling.
Neil Rampley who designed the EED burner formerly worked for Power Flame.
In 1923 Thomas Harry Banfield and Cyrus Jury Parker took over an iron works in Portland, Oregon that was manufacturing a small coal stoker. The stoker didn’t work very well, so the men redesigned it and named it the Iron Fireman. It became a commercial success relatively quickly. Coal was an economical heat source, and the Iron Fireman filled a need for automatic control of residential coal fired systems. It could be fitted to an existing furnace or used as the workings of a new one. Parker became the president of the firm. In 1928 both men were involved in an air crash which claimed the life of Parker. Banfield recovered and succeeded him in company leadership.
By the time World War II broke out the firm had manufacturing facilities in Cleveland, Ohio and Toronto, Canada as well as the Portland facility. Their factories were pressed into war service making engines for Liberty ships, and they won the Maritime “M” award given to only about 3% of the manufacturers supporting the war’s maritime effort.
Following the war the company developed oil fired burners at their Cleveland facility, and consolidated the business to that location. The Whirlpower light commercial series (developed by Fred Runninger) and the A series atomizers (developed by Charlie Schrade) had their roots in that work. By 1960 Iron Fireman had a commanding presence in commercial power burner sales – reportedly about 60% of the US market. The coal stoker business was sold to the Will-Burt company. The oil burner business was bought by Space Comfort, a California firm, who relocated it to a new factory in Harrisonburg, Virginia, complete with palm trees in front of the building. The facility attracted the attention of the Garrett AiResearch division of Allied Signal, who was putting together an HVAC conglomerate to gain federal energy grants for the development of solar powered air conditioning. Garrett also purchased Dunham-Bush, a refrigeration and air conditioning firm, moved them into the factory with Iron Fireman and changed the focus of the business.
The 1980’s saw development of the EED burner (by Neil Rampley) and the Constant Flow fuel system (by Larry Gray) for meeting New York City’s stringent rules for firing rate limitation, where Iron Fireman had considerable sales success.
In 2000 Iron Fireman was acquired by Vapor Power, who moved operations to Franklin Park, Illinois, where they operated until production ceased in December 2011.
On Dec. 31st, 2011, the owners of Iron Fireman ceased burner production and sold all remaining assets of the Iron Fireman business to OEM Boiler Parts Inc., of Elizabethtown, PA- including all engineering and sales records, parts inventory and production tooling.
Neil Rampley who designed the EED burner formerly worked for Power Flame.
Re: troubleshooting honeywell ct87k
I believe in the instructions , when new you need to let it sit to charge the battery .
Big Ed_4
1
Re: Gas Hot Water Heater Questions
Hi, Just commenting on the flex line question. In earthquake country, which is in over thirty states, it would be bad form not to use flex connectors for gas and water. Even when tanks are strapped in, they move in a quake. San Francisco burned so badly in the 1906 quake because of gas-line breaks.
Yours, Larry
Yours, Larry
Re: Gorton air vent quality
In regards to the Gorton #2, the story I relate is anecdotal and my experience only:
Some time ago, we received a failed closed Gorton #2.
I opened it up and saw the pin had come out of the bimetallic strip as others have noted.
I put the pin back and soldered the unit back together, tested it with our steam vent tester and put it on my truck for stock.
Sometime later, the unit accidentally fell out of my truck a distance of about two feet and hit the road (while still in its original box).
It went into silent mode again.
I had to open it back up to fix it again.
Lesson learned, don't let them drop!
I've also taken to putting a 55mm long piece of folded cardboard up the stalk and holding it in place with a plastic thread protector cap as a preventative measure until the the unit is used.
https://youtu.be/rpi5HaZ4O04
Some time ago, we received a failed closed Gorton #2.
I opened it up and saw the pin had come out of the bimetallic strip as others have noted.
I put the pin back and soldered the unit back together, tested it with our steam vent tester and put it on my truck for stock.
Sometime later, the unit accidentally fell out of my truck a distance of about two feet and hit the road (while still in its original box).
It went into silent mode again.
I had to open it back up to fix it again.
Lesson learned, don't let them drop!
I've also taken to putting a 55mm long piece of folded cardboard up the stalk and holding it in place with a plastic thread protector cap as a preventative measure until the the unit is used.
https://youtu.be/rpi5HaZ4O04
Gordo
2
Re: Gorton air vent quality
I am not a QA engineer. I am an RF Engineer with QA QC experience in addition to design test and measurement in manufacturing and now at the end of my career in the service sector . I am certain that I know why your vent float was in it's condition, I just do not want to be the one to say it because I have made statements that some would consider critical of some manufacturers. When I was a young lad in the 1970s I followed auto racing. USAC NASCAR CANAM. There was a number of incidents when during races at racing speeds the wheels came off of cars. The pit crews were blamed. They were not doing anything differently than they had before. The engineers and tire people discovered that the crews were not at fault. The tire fasteners were not suitable for the vibrations and higher centripetal forces above 185 mph. Whenever I was given investigative duties I had a saying. "Trust no one suspect every one" and "what is obvious to you may not be to others"
Seasonal Maine home
We own a seasonal cottage on an island off of Portland, ME. We are doing a small addition of a 1st floor primary bed & bath. We want to do the plumbing ourselves (no heating system involved). Are we able to pull the permit as the homeowner even though it is not our primary residence?
Re: Gorton air vent quality
ethicalpaul, I do not know what you mean by trauma. I and other members on this site have dropped and thrown these vents and could not dislodge the pins. I have opened measured and inspected over 50 G#5, G#6, GC and GD vents which all use the same case and bimettalic strip arrangement as the G#4. In all cases I had to use both hands. One to press hard to get the extended end of the strip to touch the base of the case and then more pressure to deform it and the other hand to pull the pin out of the hole. In addition, the same was done to restore the pin to it's position on the strip. In one vent I could not get it out. If you have big fingers it is difficult to do this. I have a QA/QC background earlier in my career and statistically if they could be dislodged by banging them around, it would be verified. If anyone has successfully dislodged the pins in these vents please let me know.