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Not offended at all, Just took some time to get the context of the issue. The way it was presented sounded like you had an old boiler from 25 years ago that was sized by an old IBR calculation form. A few years ago you had the Utica installed to replace the 25 year old boiler because it leaked a few years ago.  I find this happens a lot, that is why I like to draw diagrams so I get the big picture.  And it only took 4 days this time.  Not bad for this old guy who is losing his marbles. I remember taking 9 months to get a DIY to get the picture when rewiring his air handler to accommodate a Hydronic hot water coil in his ductwork for heating.

Now with the full picture, it makes sense. With the advancing age, my legs are always freezing. I set my air conditioning thermostat to 78° and my feet are still freezing. When the girlfriend comes over, she needs to set it to 72° and I need to wear sweats to keep my legs from hurting. (what we do for our women).

So, the lowest cost thing to try is the thermostat in the cold bedroom idea. Do you know anyone that can do minor handyman jobs? That will be the easiest thing to try first. But at this time of year you will not know how effective that change will be until next December when it gets cold again. That will also give you more time to allocate some money and get estimates to repipe the boiler so all the energy that boiler makes can get to the rooms. As far as getting the large zone split in half(ish), that will be something that you can decide to do later. The Zoning Made Easy text book covers the problem with zone valves causing a restriction on page 17, HOW TO SIZE THE ZONE VALVES AND THE CIRCULATOR. It says that the normal 4 gallon per minute with a 3/4" pipe will be restricted to 3 GPM.

The old Hydrotherm boilers that were installed with that master control attached to the pipe used Electrozone valves that operated on DC voltage. Those valves also have a low Cv. so they restricted the water flow as stated on Page 17 in the textbook. When you removed those valves and installed the Honeywell valves with the higher Cv, the 3 GPM increased closer to 4 GPM, because there was less restriction. But if you look at the actual internal guts of the valve you can see that it is not full port, but full port or not the Honeywell fixed the issue in the large zone.

Since the smaller zones did not need more than 3 GPM, swapping the valve did nothing to solve the cold bedroom. The only thing that can solve the cold bedroom will be to add more radiators in that room. I say this because the way your system is piped, swapping the supply with the return will be a larger project than I originally thought. 

Now when you add more radiator the the bedroom, you will need a plumber to drain the boiler, then add the 5 feet of radiator, then check for leaks, then fill the boiler and purge the air from the system.

If you decide to redesign the near boiler pipe to make the two 3/4" zones for the basement and the bedrooms get feed by a 1" supply pipe, the you will need a plumber to drain the boiler, then add the 1" pipe, then check for leaks, then fill the boiler and purge the air from the system.

Later if you feel the needed to replace the expansion tank and install it on the supply piping with the circulator pumping away from the expansion tank in order to eliminate air problems in your system, you will need a plumber to drain the boiler, then move the pump and replace the expansion tank, then check for leaks, then fill the boiler and purge the air from the system.

You can see a recurring theme where you are paying for a plumber to drain the boiler, then do a repair, then check for leaks, then fill the boiler and purge the air from the system. Four of these things are common to all the other jobs. and the time it takes to do those 4 jobs is not cheap. That is why I recommend doing all the wet upgrade jobs at the same time. Then you only need to drain the boiler, then check for leaks, then fill the boiler and purge the air from the system once. That will be a savings of thousands of dollars when compared to getting each job completed separately.

Feel free to send me a PM. Alternatively, you can contact by phone/text @0917-613-01930 or email steamdoctor313@gmail.com.

Old and noisy, does not necessarily mean that you need to replace the boiler. And the glass is an easy repair. On the other hand, if moving the boiler is a priority, then go for it. All power burners are somewhat noisy. Atmospheric boilers, which is what you would use for The replacement, is almost whisper quiet. One of the benefits of replacing the boiler now, so that you get to do it on your own terms. Not when it's an emergency and desperate. Be very very careful of whom you hire. This is a big investment. Unfortunately, it is much easier to pipe a steam boiler incorrectly, then correctly. And incorrectly pipe boiler, can affect efficiency, comfort, and quality of life. Nothing like Hammer noises inside your radiators at 3:00 in the morning. Big company does not necessarily mean better installation. Do your due diligence and choose wisely. And of course pictures will be helpful and giving the wall a better idea of what's going on. There are variations within Steam heating systems. And most importantly, welcome aboard. You are very fortunate to have found heating help before the installation as opposed to afterwards.