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Re: shut off valves turn but don't work
@DGutkin
The Honeywell company makes a thermostatic valve that may fix all of your problems?
Its called a one pipe steam thermostatic valve for one pipe steam.
Do a google search.
And I too believe that the washer or seat in your pictured valve has been modified as explained above, hence the wrench marks and the explanations from the person who has made those wrench marks.
The Honeywell company makes a thermostatic valve that may fix all of your problems?
Its called a one pipe steam thermostatic valve for one pipe steam.
Do a google search.
And I too believe that the washer or seat in your pictured valve has been modified as explained above, hence the wrench marks and the explanations from the person who has made those wrench marks.
Intplm.
1
Re: shut off valves turn but don't work
Also, wrong valve for handle positioning
if in the future it is replaced it should be a convector valve with a nipple, not an angle radiator valve.
As for the nyc apartment temperature issues, it's very difficult to balance every tenant's personal preferences with some systems. I'll bet there's a tenant with similar temps as the OP, but is perfectly content. I have a lady from the Philippines in my office who yells at me when I turn off the heat. I'm burning up and sweating, but for her it was the perfect temperature.
if in the future it is replaced it should be a convector valve with a nipple, not an angle radiator valve.
As for the nyc apartment temperature issues, it's very difficult to balance every tenant's personal preferences with some systems. I'll bet there's a tenant with similar temps as the OP, but is perfectly content. I have a lady from the Philippines in my office who yells at me when I turn off the heat. I'm burning up and sweating, but for her it was the perfect temperature.
dko
3
Re: Boiler replacement without cleaning system
Adequate initial flushing of the system (I'm assuming we're talking about hot water here, not steam) shouldn't take much longer than actually removing and installing a new boiler -- so do them both at once. If, on the other hand, this is steam we're looking at, no initial flushing of anything is really needed -- though it wouldn't hurt to flush the wet returns, if any. But that can be done later, as needed, assuming the installer puts in suitable valves and Ts.
Re: Heat is Off - Goodman MES80
That system is filthy!
the blower wheel is cacked in dust.
the blower wheel is cacked in dust.
It needs to be taken out and throughly cleaned.
pecmsg
1
Re: Heat is Off - Goodman MES80
Are either of the limit switches manual reset, or one shot? Locate them -- should be in the manual -- and see.
Re: Heat is Off - Goodman MES80
The single wall smoke pipe is way too close to combustibles.
Re: New Radiant Flooring Complete Install - Need Pro Consultation
So the entire slab is supposed to be one zone, and the future loft would be the 2nd? Or you want the slab to be 2 zones (perhaps the office separate from the shop) with the loft being a 3rd? If the latter, how many loops are in each zone? That's what size manifolds you'll need. Typical manifolds do not exceed 12 loops so if it's all one zone you could do any combination that comes to 13 whether that's 6+7 or 5+8 or 4+9, etc. Frankly, more details are needed. I've got a little experience with that CTB-200 and you couldn't give me one for free, but it certainly could be used with the proper piping and possibly a buffer if you're splitting it into multiple zones. Most would utilize a propane boiler as a primary and if you're deadset on the WOB, tie it into the system as a secondary or vice versa. I'd be happy to discuss design options with you for a fee, but again, will need more details on the system and its desired usage.
GroundUp
1
Re: Circulator pump very hot
The cost of a replacement cartridge may be as much or more than a complete new pump
Shop for a new 007, or comparable replacement
Shop for a new 007, or comparable replacement
hot_rod
1
Re: New Radiant Flooring Complete Install - Need Pro Consultation
A small zone like a loft will not be a good condition to operate that 200 boiler at. It will bang on and off every few minutes. It only has one speed, full speed ahead.
To size the pump you need to know, type of fluid, gallon per minute, and the head of the circuit.
So what size tube and how long are the loop lengths, is a starting point.
In a perfect radiant world, you start with a load calculation and radiant design. That would spell out all the info. Loop size and length, gpm per loop, pressure drop per loop, and the total for the pump sizing. Without some data it will be a guesstimate, trial and error approach.
Design info like shown below.
For example, 13 loops at .65 gpm per loop = 8.45 gpm, that is one number.
The size and length of the loop gets the head number. Then you have the pump sizing criteria. I'm thinking a basic 3 speed circ could work Grundfos 15-58 for example. Alpha 15-58 if you want a higher efficiency pump more suited for future zoning.
If you go with that boiler you need either a buffer tank, hydro separator, or a primary secondary piping, and the pump for the boiler that Clean Burn recommends. It may ship with a pump?
The CB manual may show some piping options for low temperature systems like yours.
So some decisions to make before you start buying components.
To size the pump you need to know, type of fluid, gallon per minute, and the head of the circuit.
So what size tube and how long are the loop lengths, is a starting point.
In a perfect radiant world, you start with a load calculation and radiant design. That would spell out all the info. Loop size and length, gpm per loop, pressure drop per loop, and the total for the pump sizing. Without some data it will be a guesstimate, trial and error approach.
Design info like shown below.
For example, 13 loops at .65 gpm per loop = 8.45 gpm, that is one number.
The size and length of the loop gets the head number. Then you have the pump sizing criteria. I'm thinking a basic 3 speed circ could work Grundfos 15-58 for example. Alpha 15-58 if you want a higher efficiency pump more suited for future zoning.
If you go with that boiler you need either a buffer tank, hydro separator, or a primary secondary piping, and the pump for the boiler that Clean Burn recommends. It may ship with a pump?
The CB manual may show some piping options for low temperature systems like yours.
So some decisions to make before you start buying components.
hot_rod
1
Re: Boiler replacement without cleaning system
In an older Hot Water system that has has lots of fresh water added oner the past couple of months (or years) you will have lots of rust build up that is getting mixed into the entire system, including the radiators. A quick flush when the system is being drained will get some of that crap out (CRAP is a technical term) but there will still be more that needs to be addressed. the addition of a strainer or a Dirt Mag® to keep as much of that crap from entering the new boiler will go a long way to keeping the system operational for years to come.
On the steam side, I agree with @Jamie Hall You can do it later but have the proper valves and tee fittings installed. I installed a steamer in a church and placed 2" pipe nipples on the bottom of the boiler with a 2" ball valve then another 2" nipple with a firehose connector on the outlet. I got an old 15 ft length of 2" firehose from a local fire company with the matching fitting. Each summer I could close the 6" king valve (already there from the previous boiler) & a valve on the return and build up about 10 PSI steam pressure and really blow out any rust or mud that was on the bottom of that boiler.
The neighborhood kids loved it when I made all that steam in the parking lot
On the steam side, I agree with @Jamie Hall You can do it later but have the proper valves and tee fittings installed. I installed a steamer in a church and placed 2" pipe nipples on the bottom of the boiler with a 2" ball valve then another 2" nipple with a firehose connector on the outlet. I got an old 15 ft length of 2" firehose from a local fire company with the matching fitting. Each summer I could close the 6" king valve (already there from the previous boiler) & a valve on the return and build up about 10 PSI steam pressure and really blow out any rust or mud that was on the bottom of that boiler.
The neighborhood kids loved it when I made all that steam in the parking lot
