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Re: Heat is Off - Goodman MES80
Are either of the limit switches manual reset, or one shot? Locate them -- should be in the manual -- and see.
Re: Heat is Off - Goodman MES80
The single wall smoke pipe is way too close to combustibles.
Re: New Radiant Flooring Complete Install - Need Pro Consultation
So the entire slab is supposed to be one zone, and the future loft would be the 2nd? Or you want the slab to be 2 zones (perhaps the office separate from the shop) with the loft being a 3rd? If the latter, how many loops are in each zone? That's what size manifolds you'll need. Typical manifolds do not exceed 12 loops so if it's all one zone you could do any combination that comes to 13 whether that's 6+7 or 5+8 or 4+9, etc. Frankly, more details are needed. I've got a little experience with that CTB-200 and you couldn't give me one for free, but it certainly could be used with the proper piping and possibly a buffer if you're splitting it into multiple zones. Most would utilize a propane boiler as a primary and if you're deadset on the WOB, tie it into the system as a secondary or vice versa. I'd be happy to discuss design options with you for a fee, but again, will need more details on the system and its desired usage.
GroundUp
1
Re: Circulator pump very hot
The cost of a replacement cartridge may be as much or more than a complete new pump
Shop for a new 007, or comparable replacement
Shop for a new 007, or comparable replacement
hot_rod
1
Re: New Radiant Flooring Complete Install - Need Pro Consultation
A small zone like a loft will not be a good condition to operate that 200 boiler at. It will bang on and off every few minutes. It only has one speed, full speed ahead.
To size the pump you need to know, type of fluid, gallon per minute, and the head of the circuit.
So what size tube and how long are the loop lengths, is a starting point.
In a perfect radiant world, you start with a load calculation and radiant design. That would spell out all the info. Loop size and length, gpm per loop, pressure drop per loop, and the total for the pump sizing. Without some data it will be a guesstimate, trial and error approach.
Design info like shown below.
For example, 13 loops at .65 gpm per loop = 8.45 gpm, that is one number.
The size and length of the loop gets the head number. Then you have the pump sizing criteria. I'm thinking a basic 3 speed circ could work Grundfos 15-58 for example. Alpha 15-58 if you want a higher efficiency pump more suited for future zoning.
If you go with that boiler you need either a buffer tank, hydro separator, or a primary secondary piping, and the pump for the boiler that Clean Burn recommends. It may ship with a pump?
The CB manual may show some piping options for low temperature systems like yours.
So some decisions to make before you start buying components.
To size the pump you need to know, type of fluid, gallon per minute, and the head of the circuit.
So what size tube and how long are the loop lengths, is a starting point.
In a perfect radiant world, you start with a load calculation and radiant design. That would spell out all the info. Loop size and length, gpm per loop, pressure drop per loop, and the total for the pump sizing. Without some data it will be a guesstimate, trial and error approach.
Design info like shown below.
For example, 13 loops at .65 gpm per loop = 8.45 gpm, that is one number.
The size and length of the loop gets the head number. Then you have the pump sizing criteria. I'm thinking a basic 3 speed circ could work Grundfos 15-58 for example. Alpha 15-58 if you want a higher efficiency pump more suited for future zoning.
If you go with that boiler you need either a buffer tank, hydro separator, or a primary secondary piping, and the pump for the boiler that Clean Burn recommends. It may ship with a pump?
The CB manual may show some piping options for low temperature systems like yours.
So some decisions to make before you start buying components.
hot_rod
1
Re: Boiler replacement without cleaning system
In an older Hot Water system that has has lots of fresh water added oner the past couple of months (or years) you will have lots of rust build up that is getting mixed into the entire system, including the radiators. A quick flush when the system is being drained will get some of that crap out (CRAP is a technical term) but there will still be more that needs to be addressed. the addition of a strainer or a Dirt Mag® to keep as much of that crap from entering the new boiler will go a long way to keeping the system operational for years to come.
On the steam side, I agree with @Jamie Hall You can do it later but have the proper valves and tee fittings installed. I installed a steamer in a church and placed 2" pipe nipples on the bottom of the boiler with a 2" ball valve then another 2" nipple with a firehose connector on the outlet. I got an old 15 ft length of 2" firehose from a local fire company with the matching fitting. Each summer I could close the 6" king valve (already there from the previous boiler) & a valve on the return and build up about 10 PSI steam pressure and really blow out any rust or mud that was on the bottom of that boiler.
The neighborhood kids loved it when I made all that steam in the parking lot
On the steam side, I agree with @Jamie Hall You can do it later but have the proper valves and tee fittings installed. I installed a steamer in a church and placed 2" pipe nipples on the bottom of the boiler with a 2" ball valve then another 2" nipple with a firehose connector on the outlet. I got an old 15 ft length of 2" firehose from a local fire company with the matching fitting. Each summer I could close the 6" king valve (already there from the previous boiler) & a valve on the return and build up about 10 PSI steam pressure and really blow out any rust or mud that was on the bottom of that boiler.
The neighborhood kids loved it when I made all that steam in the parking lot
Re: Liking our new Ecobee thermostats
Thanks for this valuable information. And it is nice to hear from you again without needing to solve a problem. You may have even solved some problems for others here. I am going to bookmark this Discussion for future reference so I can help others with your same problem. I would never know this information since I don't work on customers systems anymore, and have no way to test these different options. BIG THANKS again @jesmed1
Re: Using datalogging thermometers and spreadsheet to diagnose bad rad vent
I wonder if your MoM vent that's obviously sticking during that one cycle is also partially sticking during the second set of three burns. Notice the second set of three burns has lower peaks for the riser and rad temps than the first set of three burns, and as a result of that plus the falling outdoor temps, the room temp drops below 70.The variability of that room is messy. Dropping below 70 even when the rad is cycling, but then sometimes up to mid 80s! I have no idea what to do about it. Oddly, the identical room on the floor below is much more even. I think I don't even have a port screwed into the vent valve on that one.Yes, I see. Well, your 2nd has floor ambient temp went up from 65 to 75 during that long boiler run, so you still have some excess capacity at 30 degrees. Hopefully that's enough.
On the Nest log it's calling nearly continuously that day, 21.75 hrs! But the datalogger in the same room shows it rock solid at 70 the whole time, inconsistent with an open window. If it's a response to the outside dropping to 30, I'm worried that I'm going to fall short of heat like I did before getting the burner properly tuned last spring.
Not an expert on steam heat, but you might find that replacing that one vent clears up both those artifacts.
Like some famous detective said, once a thief is caught, a string of crimes is often solved.
jesmed1
1
Liking our new Ecobee thermostats
This is not a question/problem, just me saying how much I'm liking our new Ecobee3 lite thermostats, which helped us solve an ongoing heating problem.
I maintain a 100-year-old 4-unit condo building in the Boston area. It's divided down the middle into two halves. One oil boiler on each side of the basement heats its own half of the building (two condo units, one on the first floor and one on the second floor.)
An ongoing problem when I moved in 10+ years ago was the lack of heat regulation on the second floor. The one thermostat per boiler was on the first floor, so the second floor condo had no separate control for heat. This caused ongoing problems for the upstairs condos, which were often either too hot or too cold.
It took me several years to find and fix a number of other underlying problems, such as air trapped in radiators, lack of proper air management devices on the boiler piping, thermostats placed in the wrong places, incorrect swing settings, air leaks through windows, etc. Once all those were fixed, the heating system worked more evenly, but the upstairs units still lacked controls.
I had considered installing smart thermostats in the past, but the lack of a C wire was one of the impediments that held me back. After doing some research, I finally decided to try the Ecobee3 lite thermostat in one unit. I chose the Ecobee over the Nest because the Nest has no user-configurable setting for the swing, and I had found by trial and error that our cast iron boilers needed to have the thermostat programmed for the correct swing setting for optimal run times. (Ecobee doesn't call it a "swing" setting; they call it the "heat differential temperature.")
After installing an Ecobee3 lite in one of the condo units, I found that a "heat differential temperature" of 1.0 produced roughly the same boiler run times as our previous "dumb" thermostat had with a swing setting of 0.75 degrees (about 40 minutes).
I also found that the graphic data display available at beestat.io was extremely helpful in monitoring boiler run times and seeing how the temperature in the condo unit varied with the boiler runs.
Then after installing the Ecobee, I read that there were remote sensors available that would provide temperature data in other rooms wirelessly. I realized that one of those sensors placed in an upstairs condo unit could function as a de facto thermostat for the upstairs units, as it would feed temperature data back to the thermostat and help regulate the upstairs temperature.
So I got a sensor, paired it with the Ecobee thermostat, and gave it to the upstairs condo owner to hang on her wall. Using the beestat.io web-based app, I could then monitor the temperature range in the upstairs unit. As it turned out, with the downstairs Ecobee thermostat set at 69, the upstairs unit temperature ranged from 68-70, while the downstairs temperature ranged from 67-69, and that was fine. The thermostat averages the two temperature readings and uses that average as the input for its control feedback loop, so one unit never gets too hot or too cold.
Once I saw how well the setup worked, I installed a second Ecobee thermostat + remote sensor in the other two condo units, and the heat in those units is now also well balanced.
I'm now kicking myself for waiting so long to do this, as having a remote sensor upstairs helping to regulate the heat is a game-changer for the upstairs condo owners who previously had no control over the heat.
One note on the Ecobee and other smart thermostats is that the power requirement can be a problem in certain setups. We have only a 2-wire, heat-only thermostat setup, so we don't have the complication of added A/C and fan controls. Even so, we did need to find a separate 24 VAC power source for the Ecobees. I was going to buy a separate plug-in transformer to install in the basement near the boilers, but then I realized that our building doorbells all run off a dedicated nearby 24 VAC transformer. So I added some multiplex connectors to the transformer and ran power wires from there to both Ecostats, and that works well. For a setup like this, the 24 VAC power goes to the Rc and C terminals on the Ecobee. The aquastat relay wires on the boiler go to the Rh and W1 terminals on the Ecobee.
So, thanks to the good folks at Ecobee for engineering an outstanding product that helped solve a longstanding problem for some condo owners who previously had no way to regulate their heat.
I might also say that I got helpful answers from the Ecobee tech support people in online chats to answer some questions. They were busy on cold weekends, so I sometimes had to wait, but once I got hold of someone, they invariably were able to answer my questions.
I maintain a 100-year-old 4-unit condo building in the Boston area. It's divided down the middle into two halves. One oil boiler on each side of the basement heats its own half of the building (two condo units, one on the first floor and one on the second floor.)
An ongoing problem when I moved in 10+ years ago was the lack of heat regulation on the second floor. The one thermostat per boiler was on the first floor, so the second floor condo had no separate control for heat. This caused ongoing problems for the upstairs condos, which were often either too hot or too cold.
It took me several years to find and fix a number of other underlying problems, such as air trapped in radiators, lack of proper air management devices on the boiler piping, thermostats placed in the wrong places, incorrect swing settings, air leaks through windows, etc. Once all those were fixed, the heating system worked more evenly, but the upstairs units still lacked controls.
I had considered installing smart thermostats in the past, but the lack of a C wire was one of the impediments that held me back. After doing some research, I finally decided to try the Ecobee3 lite thermostat in one unit. I chose the Ecobee over the Nest because the Nest has no user-configurable setting for the swing, and I had found by trial and error that our cast iron boilers needed to have the thermostat programmed for the correct swing setting for optimal run times. (Ecobee doesn't call it a "swing" setting; they call it the "heat differential temperature.")
After installing an Ecobee3 lite in one of the condo units, I found that a "heat differential temperature" of 1.0 produced roughly the same boiler run times as our previous "dumb" thermostat had with a swing setting of 0.75 degrees (about 40 minutes).
I also found that the graphic data display available at beestat.io was extremely helpful in monitoring boiler run times and seeing how the temperature in the condo unit varied with the boiler runs.
Then after installing the Ecobee, I read that there were remote sensors available that would provide temperature data in other rooms wirelessly. I realized that one of those sensors placed in an upstairs condo unit could function as a de facto thermostat for the upstairs units, as it would feed temperature data back to the thermostat and help regulate the upstairs temperature.
So I got a sensor, paired it with the Ecobee thermostat, and gave it to the upstairs condo owner to hang on her wall. Using the beestat.io web-based app, I could then monitor the temperature range in the upstairs unit. As it turned out, with the downstairs Ecobee thermostat set at 69, the upstairs unit temperature ranged from 68-70, while the downstairs temperature ranged from 67-69, and that was fine. The thermostat averages the two temperature readings and uses that average as the input for its control feedback loop, so one unit never gets too hot or too cold.
Once I saw how well the setup worked, I installed a second Ecobee thermostat + remote sensor in the other two condo units, and the heat in those units is now also well balanced.
I'm now kicking myself for waiting so long to do this, as having a remote sensor upstairs helping to regulate the heat is a game-changer for the upstairs condo owners who previously had no control over the heat.
One note on the Ecobee and other smart thermostats is that the power requirement can be a problem in certain setups. We have only a 2-wire, heat-only thermostat setup, so we don't have the complication of added A/C and fan controls. Even so, we did need to find a separate 24 VAC power source for the Ecobees. I was going to buy a separate plug-in transformer to install in the basement near the boilers, but then I realized that our building doorbells all run off a dedicated nearby 24 VAC transformer. So I added some multiplex connectors to the transformer and ran power wires from there to both Ecostats, and that works well. For a setup like this, the 24 VAC power goes to the Rc and C terminals on the Ecobee. The aquastat relay wires on the boiler go to the Rh and W1 terminals on the Ecobee.
So, thanks to the good folks at Ecobee for engineering an outstanding product that helped solve a longstanding problem for some condo owners who previously had no way to regulate their heat.
I might also say that I got helpful answers from the Ecobee tech support people in online chats to answer some questions. They were busy on cold weekends, so I sometimes had to wait, but once I got hold of someone, they invariably were able to answer my questions.
jesmed1
1
Re: Snowmelt timelapse
You got that backwards, more flow = higher average water temperature, ie, more heat
lower flow = lower average water temperature ie less heat
If you like the way it melts now I would leave it how you have it
lower flow = lower average water temperature ie less heat
If you like the way it melts now I would leave it how you have it
GGross
1