Best Of
Re: 1920's Toilet Shroud
I’m a homeowner so my experience is limited, but I had good luck with this company that finds and sells antique plumbing fixtures. They are in California, but ship everywhere.
Bathroom Machineries
209-728-3860
JH3550
Re: Possible solution for all those DIYers struggling with heat loss calculations
Isn't this true for flesh and blood humans too? 🤔
JakeCK
Re: Hot Water Heater....banging, thumping, hissing....advice please
@Larry Weingarten , thank you for you help. Much appreciation! Flo
FloMo201
Re: 1930's Hydronic System help understanding
Your problem could indeed, be the new pump. While the Taco can pump against a higher head, the B&G has a greater flow capacity. Calculate the head and GPM of your system and find your duty point on the charts to see which pump is the correct one.
Re: 1930's Hydronic System help understanding
Good call! In the old days, they installed orifice plates in the upstairs radiator spuds on gravity systems because the hot water was buoyant and wanted to go there first. When you convert to a pumped system, the orifice plates get moved to the downstairs radiators.
I’ve never seen this around here, but Dan talks about it in his books.
Re: Loud gunshot sound when HTP-EL150N fires (delayed ignition on propane?)
I am a manufacturer's representative for this unit. I won't disclose what company I work for. All work must be done by a licensed professional. under no circumstances should you do any work on this unit if you are not a licensed tech. Here's what is likely going on..
The delayed ignition is typically caused by a fuel supply issue at the unit. The EL series should have no more than a .5" W.C. pressure drop upon ignition. If the pressure drop is greater, the combustion chamber fills with fuel and does not ignite until a proper mixture of air and gas is achieved. By the time it ignites there is an abundance of fuel in the chamber leading to a delayed ignition (read small explosion) within the heat exchanger.
Have the tech check the pressure drop upon Igniton, and adjust the regulator if necessary.
Secondly, the location of the flue sensor and ECO has likely deteriorated from exhaust condensate. the exhaust elbow assembly including the ECO and Sensor should be replaced. it could also be possible the field connection board located underneath has been compromised as well.
Perform a combustion test analysis and make sure all values are within spec.
Re: Design Help/Self Doubt
A manual 3 way mix valve works well, for the mix down temperatures, it modulates with the ODR.
140- 160f is a common panel radiator design, you may not ever ned 180F if you size them based on SWT.
This issue has some good thoughts about low SWT systems
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hot_rod
Re: Design Help/Self Doubt
Most of the electric boilers modulate their output, no need for the buffer.
What is the total square footage that you are heating?
I know in them Quebec area there are a lot of dual fuel systems, oil and electric. Electric kicks in when off peak hits. Someone up there makes a control that knows when real time of off peak rates hit to turn on the electric.
hot_rod
Re: Design Help/Self Doubt
- floor needs 16,000BTU
- Bed/Bath needs 15,000BTU
- Basement needs 6,000BTU
Family room radiant is 400 sqft (slab on grade)
Bedroom/Bathroom is 400 sqft (second story)
Basement is 442 sqft
OK, I didn't realize the areas were so small, that's actually a pretty high load. What kind of radiant panels are you considering for the upstairs rooms? Just for comparison's sake, you'd need 32 feet of baseboard radiator to get 16,000 BTU/hr, which would take up most of two walls on a 400 square foot room. So getting the panels to physically fit is something to think about.
Basement is 15 BTU/hr per square foot, that should be surface temperature 7.5F above room temperature.
One thing to consider is water temperature, you don't want the basement floor too hot or it will be uncomfortable and hard to control. Best is to have it modulate automatically with an outdoor reset. At the same time, the output I gave above for baseboards is for 180F water, output drops as water temperature drops. So you may not be able to run both upstairs and basement at the same water temperature, which complicates things a little.
Re: 1930's Hydronic System help understanding
the tee where the expansion tank is ok for locating the air seperator .
Consider a product that does air, dirt, and magnetic partial removal, especially with that circ.
hot_rod