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Re: Replacement Vent for old convector copper fin style radiator?
This is a good option. It is both a manual vent and an auto vent. You can also unscrew the top part for service or replacement. It has a ball check on the bottom part to allow removal without losing pressure or water. 1/8” NPT.
hot_rod
1
Re: Weil McLain glass tube (site) replacement
We can't talk prices on this forum. Not allowed. You can buy the parts online at supply house.com if you can change it yourself. They usually need to be changed every 5 years or so.
If it wasn't leaking before the service, I would call them and try and get some credit. They may say no but it's worth a try. Maybe when it was serviced he took it out to clean it and reinstalled it. The glass can break pretty easily.
If it wasn't leaking before the service, I would call them and try and get some credit. They may say no but it's worth a try. Maybe when it was serviced he took it out to clean it and reinstalled it. The glass can break pretty easily.
Re: Weil McLain glass tube (site) replacement
Hello!We don't discuss labor pricing on this site, it's one of the few hard rules.
Weil McLain 68 Boiler Model P-468-ST
We recently had our boiler serviced and, after the guy left, we had a water leak from the site glass. Called the company back and they returned, replaced the glass, approx. 1/2 hour of work, charged us $.
We are happy to pay a contractor for their expertise and work but that seems really high.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Thank you.
Theresa
That said, remember, most companies have a minimum charge because of travel time etc. A 15 minute job could be more like an hour at least due to travel time, communication, scheduling etc. 1 person shows up, but there could be 1-3 others behind the scenes to support the field employee. There is a lot to it.
KC_Jones
1
Re: Carlin ProX burner is locked out
@RegularGuy Welcome to HeatingHelp. Let's work through this and get your heat back on.
@Erin Holohan Haskell Could you split this off to a new discussion please?
I'm not an EK cheerleader, and in fact, as a DIYer am not real happy with their policy of only selling parts to Pros (there is at least one part that can only be sourced from them). I wouldn't buy one for my house, although I admire EK's focus on quality and building a premium product (their claim). Anecdotal statements here seem to back that up.
International Harvester built high quality premium SUVs (stopped in 1980) and pickup trucks (stopped 1975). Unfortunately having a better product does not guarantee survival in the business world. IH collapsed before the SUV and pickup boom because their dealerships were in rural areas and inconvenient for suburbanites. Harvester's demographics crystal ball was stuck in 1950.
My crystal ball says the shortage of good techs in HVAC will only get worse. The "sell and talk to Pro's only" policy, may cause problems for EK and Owners of their equipment going forward.
Back to No Heat:
The Carlin burner is not a proprietary part. Any competent Oil tech can service a Carlin. You can buy one yourself from HeatingHelp site sponser https://www.supplyhouse.com/ and slap it in yourself. You will need a digital combustion analyzer (expensive tool) and some knowledge to tune it. If it isn't tuned, you will soot up your boiler and make lethal amounts of carbon monoxide. The CO will probably go out the flue, until something fails with the flue system. So it makes more sense to hire a competent oil tech. They don't have to be EK trained. EK makes another claim that they will work with any Pro (but not homeowners). Let's test that claim.
Does your Carlin display any error codes?
You will get better help if you can post some pictures here.
@Erin Holohan Haskell Could you split this off to a new discussion please?
My new hot water tank,......, leakingThree separate and probably unrelated failures. Since you are cold let's work on the last one first. We can come back to the other two when you are warm.
had to replace the expansion tank and a valve
Carlin ProX burner is locked out and we don't have heat
I'm not an EK cheerleader, and in fact, as a DIYer am not real happy with their policy of only selling parts to Pros (there is at least one part that can only be sourced from them). I wouldn't buy one for my house, although I admire EK's focus on quality and building a premium product (their claim). Anecdotal statements here seem to back that up.
International Harvester built high quality premium SUVs (stopped in 1980) and pickup trucks (stopped 1975). Unfortunately having a better product does not guarantee survival in the business world. IH collapsed before the SUV and pickup boom because their dealerships were in rural areas and inconvenient for suburbanites. Harvester's demographics crystal ball was stuck in 1950.
My crystal ball says the shortage of good techs in HVAC will only get worse. The "sell and talk to Pro's only" policy, may cause problems for EK and Owners of their equipment going forward.
Back to No Heat:
The Carlin burner is not a proprietary part. Any competent Oil tech can service a Carlin. You can buy one yourself from HeatingHelp site sponser https://www.supplyhouse.com/ and slap it in yourself. You will need a digital combustion analyzer (expensive tool) and some knowledge to tune it. If it isn't tuned, you will soot up your boiler and make lethal amounts of carbon monoxide. The CO will probably go out the flue, until something fails with the flue system. So it makes more sense to hire a competent oil tech. They don't have to be EK trained. EK makes another claim that they will work with any Pro (but not homeowners). Let's test that claim.
Does your Carlin display any error codes?
You will get better help if you can post some pictures here.
WMno57
1
Re: Leaking air vents on steam baseboard raditors and banging noise in pipes
I'm now aware that I need insulation on the main pipes in the basement.
You don't need insulation. It won't help your banging. Replacing vents won't help your banging. There is water either getting pushed into your system, or being left behind in your system where it doesn't belong.
Re: Two quotes for combi boilers for radiant and DHW
Is the home comfortable everywhere if there is no heat in two rooms? Has a loop or two been disconnected? Seems odd that someone would skip two rooms, unless they are an addition?
If two rooms are un-heated, or loops abandon, that would make me think more about plan B. Abandon the radiant and look at panel rads, radiant walls or ceilings.
Or with such a small load maybe mini splits make more sense. Heat, cool, dehumidify with that option. Skip a new boiler altogether. In your climate I suspect they run fairly efficient.
It is really the quality of the home construction and insulation that will dictate how much energy you use to heat it regardless of the system. Radiant, forced air, mini splits, electric baseboard, etc. It takes X amount of heat input. Then it comes down to the cost of the fuel. Electricity or NG.
I'd wonder if the slab had any insulation installed below. Or around the edge, that is a big heatloss area. If not it could end up being the most expensive system to run if a % of the heat just goes down into the earth, or out around the edge of the slab.
I would certainly look at any incentive for energy upgrades or dual fuel options, heat pumps, etc. In that ara there may well be electrification incentives. A heat pump could be the best, least expensive option. For both installation and operating cost.
www.dsireusa.org is a good place to start.
If two rooms are un-heated, or loops abandon, that would make me think more about plan B. Abandon the radiant and look at panel rads, radiant walls or ceilings.
Or with such a small load maybe mini splits make more sense. Heat, cool, dehumidify with that option. Skip a new boiler altogether. In your climate I suspect they run fairly efficient.
It is really the quality of the home construction and insulation that will dictate how much energy you use to heat it regardless of the system. Radiant, forced air, mini splits, electric baseboard, etc. It takes X amount of heat input. Then it comes down to the cost of the fuel. Electricity or NG.
I'd wonder if the slab had any insulation installed below. Or around the edge, that is a big heatloss area. If not it could end up being the most expensive system to run if a % of the heat just goes down into the earth, or out around the edge of the slab.
I would certainly look at any incentive for energy upgrades or dual fuel options, heat pumps, etc. In that ara there may well be electrification incentives. A heat pump could be the best, least expensive option. For both installation and operating cost.
www.dsireusa.org is a good place to start.
hot_rod
1
Re: Another Solar Myth Bites the Dust
Excellent article Larry.
Thank you for your research and ongoing promotion of THE most efficient system in the World, that being solar thermal.
As you know, I've been involved in solar thermal since before it was even on the DOE's radar. I have a 2 panels system on my mountain home that heats the home when we aren't there, and preheats the DHW when we are there. I keep the house at 40 degrees F when we are away, so all the radiant (walls, floors ceiling) surfaces are at at around 40 degrees F when the system fires, keeping the fluids below 70 degrees F, thereby maintaining solar efficiencies that are WAY high.
I wanted to pop in here, and (once again) talk about the potential that most hydronic snow/ice melt (SIM) contractors are overlooking that is staring them right in the face. That being the possibility of turning their SIM system into a large surface area high and ultra high efficiency solar collector.
During non SIM operations, there is a LOT of free energy falling onto this surface that could be put to use, either as a simple DHW preheat, heating pools/spas, and even space heating.
My concept is one of a two stage design. 1st stage would be a semi direct exchange that transfers the solar heated glycol into a storage tank with a heat exchanger for DHW preheat. When the delta T drops to the conventional "off' point, the 2nd stage kicks in.
2nd stage slows the circulation on the source (SIM) side, and directs this low grade heat into a water to water heat pump. These heat pumps would be running at around 200 to 300% efficient (COP of 2 or 3, depending). During the warmer summer months, the system would actually harvest what I refer to as "Ambient Energy", that being sensible energy that is not directly related to the solar gain. Remember, thermal energy flows from hot to cold. These systems make a lot of sense wherever there is a constant (annual) demand for DHW, which includes residential, commercial etc.
In commercial applications, like restaurants, laundries and other high hot water demand situations, I strongly believe that we could collect more energy for water heating, than they system would use in its SIM role. I've monitored some SIM systems during the summer months, and have seen slab temperatures approaching 140 degrees F. Granted, this is a stagnated condition, but the physics for extraction are there. Typical SIM systems have 5/8" PEX installed at 9" O.C., thereby making it very conducive to extracting all this free energy. When I was the Director of the RPA, I was at a code hearing conference, sitting next to a young lady. I asked her what her interest were in code development. She told me she worked for The Sierra Club, and that she was there to recommend that all SIM systems be outlawed due to the egregious waste of a precious natural resource. I told her of my reverse solar concept, and she said that she didn't realize that it was even a potential, got up and left the meeting without making her pitch. I guess what I am trying to say here, is that the environmental lobby has SIM in their gun sights, and that we as hydronic contractors had better be proactive in our applications, and start thinking outside the box, or the government and the enviro lobby will take that box (SIM) away.
These same slabs can also work as a very efficient heat rejection system due to night sky re-radiation. I've seen my solar thermal panels sub cool below ambient as much as 20 degrees under clear night sky conditions. I could use that in my mountain home for cooling from the radiant ceilings, if needed, without even firing a compressor.
Again, thank you for your continuing efforts to promote what the good Lord gives us for free, that we need to utilize to a greater degree, that being solar thermal. Stay well my friend.
ME
Thank you for your research and ongoing promotion of THE most efficient system in the World, that being solar thermal.
As you know, I've been involved in solar thermal since before it was even on the DOE's radar. I have a 2 panels system on my mountain home that heats the home when we aren't there, and preheats the DHW when we are there. I keep the house at 40 degrees F when we are away, so all the radiant (walls, floors ceiling) surfaces are at at around 40 degrees F when the system fires, keeping the fluids below 70 degrees F, thereby maintaining solar efficiencies that are WAY high.
I wanted to pop in here, and (once again) talk about the potential that most hydronic snow/ice melt (SIM) contractors are overlooking that is staring them right in the face. That being the possibility of turning their SIM system into a large surface area high and ultra high efficiency solar collector.
During non SIM operations, there is a LOT of free energy falling onto this surface that could be put to use, either as a simple DHW preheat, heating pools/spas, and even space heating.
My concept is one of a two stage design. 1st stage would be a semi direct exchange that transfers the solar heated glycol into a storage tank with a heat exchanger for DHW preheat. When the delta T drops to the conventional "off' point, the 2nd stage kicks in.
2nd stage slows the circulation on the source (SIM) side, and directs this low grade heat into a water to water heat pump. These heat pumps would be running at around 200 to 300% efficient (COP of 2 or 3, depending). During the warmer summer months, the system would actually harvest what I refer to as "Ambient Energy", that being sensible energy that is not directly related to the solar gain. Remember, thermal energy flows from hot to cold. These systems make a lot of sense wherever there is a constant (annual) demand for DHW, which includes residential, commercial etc.
In commercial applications, like restaurants, laundries and other high hot water demand situations, I strongly believe that we could collect more energy for water heating, than they system would use in its SIM role. I've monitored some SIM systems during the summer months, and have seen slab temperatures approaching 140 degrees F. Granted, this is a stagnated condition, but the physics for extraction are there. Typical SIM systems have 5/8" PEX installed at 9" O.C., thereby making it very conducive to extracting all this free energy. When I was the Director of the RPA, I was at a code hearing conference, sitting next to a young lady. I asked her what her interest were in code development. She told me she worked for The Sierra Club, and that she was there to recommend that all SIM systems be outlawed due to the egregious waste of a precious natural resource. I told her of my reverse solar concept, and she said that she didn't realize that it was even a potential, got up and left the meeting without making her pitch. I guess what I am trying to say here, is that the environmental lobby has SIM in their gun sights, and that we as hydronic contractors had better be proactive in our applications, and start thinking outside the box, or the government and the enviro lobby will take that box (SIM) away.
These same slabs can also work as a very efficient heat rejection system due to night sky re-radiation. I've seen my solar thermal panels sub cool below ambient as much as 20 degrees under clear night sky conditions. I could use that in my mountain home for cooling from the radiant ceilings, if needed, without even firing a compressor.
Again, thank you for your continuing efforts to promote what the good Lord gives us for free, that we need to utilize to a greater degree, that being solar thermal. Stay well my friend.
ME
Re: How Do I Connect This Wire?
Ed - You Rock. I started wiring heats in High school in my Junior year (circa 1968). I attended Charlestown High School , Boston, MA - Electrical Vocational Program. In our Jr. year if our grades and attendance record were good we were blessed to go to work every other week for an electrical contractor. The Electrical Co. I went to work for was a preferred Sub to the Old Boston Gas Co. They had a Huge program they called the Montreal Express. It was a no brainer for home owners = convert to gas. Bottom line we would be wiring/rewiring every type of boiler, new or old.The Gas Co. would even remove the old oil tank in 6 months if the homeowner was happy with the conversion. The oil in the tank was given to The St. Vincent DePaul Society for the poor.
Your Diagrams, Control Schemes, & Photos touched my heart. I would study & redraw those diagrams /control schemes for hours.
I've lived a charmed & rewarding life thanks to Charlestown High / Vocational Education. Let's keep our fingers crossed that Vocational Schools keep excelling and provide the path for our young to keep the American Dream alive. - Thanks Again !!!
Your Diagrams, Control Schemes, & Photos touched my heart. I would study & redraw those diagrams /control schemes for hours.
I've lived a charmed & rewarding life thanks to Charlestown High / Vocational Education. Let's keep our fingers crossed that Vocational Schools keep excelling and provide the path for our young to keep the American Dream alive. - Thanks Again !!!
Re: Replacement Vent for old convector copper fin style radiator?
What type of expansion tank do you have? A steel compression tank you can only uses manual vents. A bladder tank and you can use auto vents.
What I would do in your case either way is remove the old vent and install a ball valve with an auto vent. You can keep the auto vent shut off if need be. see attached from supply house.com
What I would do in your case either way is remove the old vent and install a ball valve with an auto vent. You can keep the auto vent shut off if need be. see attached from supply house.com