Best Of
Re: The Result of Using Non Barrier PEX
I know the Rhomar products have a O2 scavenger included in the blend. As In recall sodium sulfite.
The other important ingrediant ia a film provider. After the system is cleaned the 922 or 925 puts a thin coating on the metals. This helps ptotect them from corrosion. Similar to a rust coating on exposed metal, or anodized aluminum.
You can buy stand alone O2 scavengers, like the OWF manufacturers provide. It may be less $$ but doesn't include the ph buffer, film provider, etc.
If you have any aluminun in the system it takes a specific conditioner.
However if the ThermoCon is in the hydronic loop? it will take a lot of cleaner and conditioner.
The fill water quality is part of the equation also. If it is hard or high TDS, maybe get a DI cartridge to fill through.
Axiom has a few different cartridge sizes.
hot_rod
Re: Long-term project to update old hydronic -- let's start with the Mercoid switch!
If it were me, I'd pitch the bladder and go with an old school compression tank
and add an Airtrol fitting to the tank.
Re: Long-term project to update old hydronic -- let's start with the Mercoid switch!
I would guess the EX tank is too small as well.
Re: What does "Wet Steam" mean to you?
Can, if they collect somewhere.. Primary for that would be surging which I don't call wet steam, and there's a perfectly good word for that- surging.
Re: What does "Wet Steam" mean to you?
Again. mostly by effect. Sloshing, banging etc. To get real data, you'll have to do what @dabrakeman suggests.
Re: What does "Wet Steam" mean to you?
If this were a purely scientific discussion @ethicalpaul, my vote would be different. I would vote #4: All residential steam is WET steam because it is at the saturation temperature of water. For steam to be really "DRY" it must be superheated at least one degree above the saturation temperature. At that point there can be not water in the steam. As long as the steam is at the saturation temperature, then it can contain some water vapor or actual liquid water condensate.
But I stand by my answer in this forum because we refer to wet steam as any steam that also entrains water as a result of the boiling process or as a result of the velocity of the steam traveling thru the piping system that reaches the main piping that is well above the water line of the boiler.
Wet steam in this context is relative the the industry. You can see wet steam in the videos you post and the video of the Weil McLain boiler with the glass piping.
When your system is in normal operation, there may be a little condensation on the glass pipe sections but you don't see that water moving up into the main piping. When you do some of those tests you do then the water surges past the glass pipe.
So WET steam in our world is actual water surging into the main. while saturated steam is considered Less that Wet Steam. (but not really Dry Steam)
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
Re: Outside of combustion chamber red hot
Who was able to have the knowhow to install a brand new burner, but not have the knowhow to see what was 6 inches away from their face? Consider yourself lucky.
HVACNUT
Re: Outside of combustion chamber red hot
In order to help in the removal of the front door, start putting penetrating oil on these 4 nuts that hold the front door in place. On a boiler that old, they are probably rusted on there pretty good. You may need heat from a torch to free them up.
I agree with @EBEBRATT-Ed about the combustion chamber never being vacuum cleaned properly. and the NEW Boiler pitch. The replacement boiler for your home will have the same burner that you just purchased. It will also have about the same fuel consumption as the P68 boiler you now have. No big change in the way Weil McLain builds them today v. 1980 except for a hinge to open that combustion chamber area for cleaning. With a new chamber and a proper vacuum cleaning, you will have a boiler that is as efficient as a new one.
Re: Long-term project to update old hydronic -- let's start with the Mercoid switch!
The pressure of the expansion tank has to be set with no pressure on the system. even te 10ft of water above it really should be removed when setting the pressure of the airside of the tank. it should be set to whatever the cold fill pressure of your system will be. to measure the system pressure, you need a gauge on the water side. the air pressure in the tank may not exactly be the system pressure and you are loosing an not insignificant amount of your precharge every time you test the pressure.
You should get a pressure gayge with or adapted to hose thread and test the system pressure at one of the drains.
the outdoor temp is only part of the heat loss. some factor for increased infiltration due to wind is also added so unless you have whatever wind speed was used you don't have the design conditions. the infiltration is just a guess unless you've done a blower door test to measure it.
mattmia2
Re: Long-term project to update old hydronic -- let's start with the Mercoid switch!
On a final note, I will admit that I really like having that nice, WARM, radiator next to me in the morning, and not sure how I will feel about a much cooler one (even if it keeps the house at the desired temperature). :)
Then you'll probably be pretty unhappy with a heat pump.
I'm also thinking your expansion tank is too small. Those gravity systems have a LOT of water.