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Thank you to the forum mods and administrators, and to the many pros who offer their time and expertise freely to homeowners like me. I've learned a ton here and have been grateful for the wealth of knowledge and the generosity of the many contributors.

Thanks and happy new year to all!

yes, if Hollywood ever wrote a script, they would pay you for what you typed. Your person definitely has a preference towards the Bosch, and does not feel comfortable with the Viessmann. I install both of those brands. (Somewhere between 100 and 200 boilers, each brand.)

Yes, both are listed at 95% but that’s not the full story

The Viessmann is Extremely reliable. The Bosch is very good, but your guy will want to spend more time conditioning the boiler water. Any boiler in that situation would require the dirt magnet, but especially the Bosch (it’s low mass, not much water in there)

The Viessmann comes with outdoor reset, the Bosch does not (at least not in my area). It would be a true crime to put a non-outdoor reset boiler into that application you have. could he add one to the Bosch? Yes. But I think they stopped making the FW 200 control. So aftermarket it would have to be

If you want the Viessmann, you probably need to keep looking. You did your research, you found the best boiler, now you just need to find somebody that installs them routinely.

Actually, if he did not discuss outdoor reset with you, you should move on anyways. Cast iron is very large mass—-no need to let that beast cool down between cycles. If you have just one thermostat, then you’re going to want to consider full constant circulation with the Viessmann indoor sensor (Vitotrol)

I could opine for quite a bit, but I’ll stop typing😀

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The nice thing about the Milwaukee is you can turn your back on it and not worry about the 30 lb relief valve going off. Mine peaks out at 21 psi.

If it is plain water or you are purging out and back into a bucket no worry.

If you are trying to pump just a quart of conditioner you need to watch it. Although it is not really an air compressor so not much air will go in from the pump.

It is a rubber paddle positive displacement pump, so it will not take a lot of dry running.

And use short hoses so all the product is not in the hose instead of the system, when you shut the pump off :)

These Little Giants will move a lot more GPM, but only about 11 psi. Good for a quick fill, a little shy on power to purge..

also, make sure your near-boiler piping is insulated. So many times it has been removed because of asbestos or boiler change or repair work done and then not replaced because of the cost.
Read some of Dan’s essays on near boiler insulation. The amount of heat lost during the first few feet of piping is staggering. Purchase the correct 1 inch insulation and if you are handy, you can do it yourself. You will make up that cost in one season.

Either regulator will work as the pilot regulator as long as the incoming gas pressure does not exceed it's pressure rating. That said, to find out which one is allowed on that boiler system, look for the insurance certificate which is supposed to be displayed in a conspicuous location in the vicinity of that boiler. Call the phone number for the insurance company listed on that certificate to find out which one or both are acceptable for that installation. The insurance that covers that boiler usually determines what controls are acceptable.