Best Of
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
Also the relay solder joints to the circuit board in Honeywell aquastats is a known issue. The Red arrow points to the Relay. It as a much more awkward job to inspect the relay solder joints in the aquastat, much disassembly. Mechanical pressure (with an insulated nonmetallic tool) from different angles to the circuit board and the frame of the relay may identify a failing solder joint during a failed call for heat.
If the DHW call works consistently and just the call for heat is intermittent I would suspect the aquastat since the electrical path through it is different for the different operations. The Red highlight components is a thermostat call path which uses the relay the get power at B1 to B2, the DHW low limit path uses the contact highlighted Blue. If the solder connections are intermittent at K1 or 1K1 the power to the rest of the system will be intermittent too and only during a thermostat call. With a meter it would make short work of where the electrical path ends when the system acts up.
109A_5
Re: What constitutes "leaking" on a big mouth vent?
I have 8 Big Mouths at the end of the main, a Gorton #2 and 2 MoM #1 on 3 branches. The #2 is the slowest to close of the 3 styles. I do check the BM as they all did leak after 1-2 heating seasons, I replaced the original O-rings and have 5-6 seasons on all of them without any problems. The original o-ring was smashes and several looked melted, replaced with hi temp silicone rings from McMaster Carr.
Neild5
Re: What constitutes "leaking" on a big mouth vent?
My experience is that some vents are slower to close than others. I've never used the Big Mouth ones, but I find Gortons bi-metal type vents allow more steam to escape before closing than Hoffman sealed-expansion-vessel types.
I'm sure Big Mouths have their particular "rate of closure," so it is possible that this can cause a generous escape of steam over time.
Re: 007 Circulator “getting tired”?
yes, any motor with bearings can degrade/fail over time causing pump to drag; increased friction will also overheat pump.
PC7060
Re: 007 Circulator “getting tired”?
as always there can be other reasons. I have found too many new small pumps on systems that had B&G 100 on them. And flow checks. I started checking pump curves against the system head calculations and find some barely meeting the requirements. So bad or wrong pump, or other should also be considered.
Lance
Re: 007 Circulator “getting tired”?
You could also take a look at the age of the circ, there should be a date code stamped on the electrical box showing a month and year of manufacturing.
Dave H_2
Re: 007 Circulator “getting tired”?
More apt to be a seized circ and maybe gravity flow doing the heating. Or air locked.
When they seize, or air lock you basically have a 78W heater.
Being a wet rotor, fluid cooled design they run pretty close to the system fluid temperature, if fluid is moving through them.
An simple amp draw check would tell you more.
hot_rod
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
a great explanation by Ed. I would not think that all expansion tanks lose 1 psi per year? If so many boilers would be popping relief valves 5 years down the road. I can’t remember ever checking my expansion tanks over the years? You will need to isolate and relive any pressure to check it get an expansion tank valve with the bleed off port, if you plan on a yearly check.
Your system is steel and copper as far as I can tell, no open seal circulators so not many, if any places for O2 ingress?
After a short period of time the O2 in the H2O that you filled with is consumed in the oxidation process so you have mainly nitrogen left. Nitrogen is used in tires because it doesn’t migrate out as quickly as air, same in your expansion tank now.
Rumors abound that expansion tanks are pre-charged with nitrogen, so if that were true the charge will stay for a long time, nitrogen on both sides of the butyl rubber
My Amtrol connections have never confirmed the Nitrogen charge, but they do use use refrigerated air, which pull the moisture out, to lessen the rust potential on the air side
I would suggest the Extrol Pro tank, it is a plastic lined tank, stainless nipple.
Sizing is important also, from the looks of your system a #30 is adequate.
hot_rod
Re: Zoning two rooms on one radiant slab
Then you can use one manifold and try this idea. set all the manifold flow rates manually, as needed to maintain the temperature wanted in the garage. Then on only the loop that is in the boiler room, add a two wire zone valve actuator. Put that on a thermostat in the boiler room, no end switch needed. The function of the boiler rom thermostat will be to close off that loop only if the boiler room has sufficient heat while the garage thermostat operates the pump and boiler in the normal configuration.
This way the boiler and pump only runs when there is a need for heat in the garage. If the boiler room is also cold, that loop will be allowed to operate. If the boiler room is up to temperature, then the valve will close and more heat will be available for the garage, and the boiler room will not over heat.
I call this type of thermostat operation an Allowance thermostat, as opposed to a full function thermostat the operates more than just a zone valve
Re: Beckett furnace keeps tripping
Sounds like he needs to call a professional. I bet you or I could fix this problem in less than an hour if the OP was in one of our areas.
We can easily conclude that "he needs to call a professional" for just about any post on here. I am positive you can fix this problem in less than 30 minutes if you were there.
The challenge, for you or I, is to attempt to solve the problem via wire. It's not always easy and we aren't always successful, but we give it our best shot without risking the safety of the boiler or the individual.
We both know that the "professional" that arrives might not always be "skilled" and will take the H/O for a ride by simply changing parts. We can do better than that…………in many cases…………even if we're 1000 miles away.
The website is titled "Heating Help" for a reason.
BTW, I'd bet $100. that it is an R8184. And, that control could very well be part of the problem.
LRCCBJ