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Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
You need to have the black wire already disconnected. this way the burner will not run at all.
As soon as you get the SideShot to operate then connect the yellow so P1 and P2 are connected
Then the burner will run
You only have 5 seconds from the start of the SideShot until the P1 and P2 are jumped for this test to work.
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
Does the pressure switch have an adjustment on the side of it? That may need to be changed to get this to operate properly.
Looking at the instructions, that pressure switch is not adjustable
ALSO. Jumping P1 and P2 is only a temporary test. it is not a fix. This test will prove the pressure switch is the cause of the short cycling or it will eliminate the pressure switch as the source of the short cycling.
Re: 1 1/2 thermostatic radiator valve
Here you go @Grallert
https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/pipe-fittings-steel-female-steel-expanding-pipe-adapters-1-1-4-in-male-x-1-1-2-in/
Re: Expected operation of Gorton #2 during off cycle
You can test igmf they are venting, use an IR thermometer and a can of aerosol smoke. The smoke will show if air is flowing out the vent, and the thermometer will tell you when it should close.
Neild5
Re: Clow GasSteam Radiator
You're responding to a three year old post. Plenty unvented ones on ebay though.
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
The red jumper on the upper right of this diagram is the prover switch.
You can use the yellow wire that is connected to the prover pressure switch on the left of the photograph. leave it connected to P2 on the PCB and remove the black wire from the P1 on the PCB. after the fan starts connect the yellow wire to P1 and that will simulate the prover switch has closed contacts and the short cycling will stop.
After the burner cycle is completed, you must remove the wire from P1 or the burner will not restart on the next cycle. Then when the next cycle starts the Side Shot again, you can jump P1 to P2 again and that will allow the burner to operate.
So P1 and P2 must NOT be connected for the Side Shot to start. P1 and P2 must be connected for the burner to start.
Re: Did I screw this up?
If you have one zone of heat, I'd run the circulator continuously. I have my circulator set this way with an outside sensor to kill the pump above 65 degrees. I'm a fan of super simple where possible.
Dennis
Re: Frozen pipes in unheated space
There are several unknowns here. First, just how big is this closet, and how big is the area under the closet? For instance, I kind of like the idea of spray foaming the foundation walls — but if they are more than a few feet from any usable opening, that might be difficult without access. Second, how long is this run of frosty pipe? I also like @DCContrarian 's idea of fishing PEX through there. I've fished PEX through some pretty gnarly spaces, and it's just not that hard to do, given a little ingenuity. Third, though — and this goes back to "how big" — a good carpenter can take up a piece of floor and do it in such a way that when it's put back you'd have a rough time knowing, unless you knew what to look for.
Or a combination of the three above… !
Re: Thermostat or boiler controls?
You're observing the behavior of the thermostat……………nothing more.
On a cold day, it takes longer for the room to open the 'stat. Of course, the rads are more fully filled with steam and they provide heat into the space for a longer time period after the 'stat opens before it closes again.
On a warmer day, it takes next to nothing to open the 'stat and the rads have barely received steam. So, they don't have the residual energy to deliver to the room after the 'stat opens. So, the 'stat recloses earlier.
Depending on the 'stat, you can change the spacing between the cycles by adjusting the "anticipator". This also results in a wider differential in the room temperature……………..which may be undesirable depending upon the occupant(s).
LRCCBJ