Best Of
Re: Expected operation of Gorton #2 during off cycle
You can test igmf they are venting, use an IR thermometer and a can of aerosol smoke. The smoke will show if air is flowing out the vent, and the thermometer will tell you when it should close.
Neild5
Re: Clow GasSteam Radiator
You're responding to a three year old post. Plenty unvented ones on ebay though.
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
The red jumper on the upper right of this diagram is the prover switch.
You can use the yellow wire that is connected to the prover pressure switch on the left of the photograph. leave it connected to P2 on the PCB and remove the black wire from the P1 on the PCB. after the fan starts connect the yellow wire to P1 and that will simulate the prover switch has closed contacts and the short cycling will stop.
After the burner cycle is completed, you must remove the wire from P1 or the burner will not restart on the next cycle. Then when the next cycle starts the Side Shot again, you can jump P1 to P2 again and that will allow the burner to operate.
So P1 and P2 must NOT be connected for the Side Shot to start. P1 and P2 must be connected for the burner to start.
Re: Did I screw this up?
If you have one zone of heat, I'd run the circulator continuously. I have my circulator set this way with an outside sensor to kill the pump above 65 degrees. I'm a fan of super simple where possible.
Dennis
Re: Frozen pipes in unheated space
There are several unknowns here. First, just how big is this closet, and how big is the area under the closet? For instance, I kind of like the idea of spray foaming the foundation walls — but if they are more than a few feet from any usable opening, that might be difficult without access. Second, how long is this run of frosty pipe? I also like @DCContrarian 's idea of fishing PEX through there. I've fished PEX through some pretty gnarly spaces, and it's just not that hard to do, given a little ingenuity. Third, though — and this goes back to "how big" — a good carpenter can take up a piece of floor and do it in such a way that when it's put back you'd have a rough time knowing, unless you knew what to look for.
Or a combination of the three above… !
Re: Thermostat or boiler controls?
You're observing the behavior of the thermostat……………nothing more.
On a cold day, it takes longer for the room to open the 'stat. Of course, the rads are more fully filled with steam and they provide heat into the space for a longer time period after the 'stat opens before it closes again.
On a warmer day, it takes next to nothing to open the 'stat and the rads have barely received steam. So, they don't have the residual energy to deliver to the room after the 'stat opens. So, the 'stat recloses earlier.
Depending on the 'stat, you can change the spacing between the cycles by adjusting the "anticipator". This also results in a wider differential in the room temperature……………..which may be undesirable depending upon the occupant(s).
LRCCBJ
Re: Steam Boiler?
It might, but then again, that thing was just installed and it's vibrating, so would a new valve block be any better?
Each of those mains should get a Gorton #2. This will necessitate removing the vertical nipples and bell reducers from the mains, and installing the proper bushings in the tees, but the difference will be amazing.
Re: Steam Boiler?
The feeder shouldn't be adding water regularly. The MM feeders are safety devices and the boiler level should be regulated by an attendant. As this fellow probably never wants to look at his boiler again, Steamhead's advice to replace the float control with a "smarter" water level control would solve the singing problem.
The MM control sings because the valve modulates. When it starts to open, there's barely a trickle, so it makes noise. The VXT solenoid valve snaps wide open and snaps closed, so no flow sounds like the MM. The Hydrolevel 711C manifold will need to be blown down regularly to remove sludge. If that's not done, you'll have a dangerous situation.
Maybe you can find a way to mount the VXT right on the boiler, but there's not much wisdom in beating on any of those old castings.
Re: Taco SR506 Switching Relay: thermostat Calls for Heat but zone not activated
LY2N-AC110/120
or
LY2-AC110/120
Looking at the data sheet the relay with the 'N', LY2N-AC110/120 has an indicator that the coil is energized, in this case probably an LED, with some relays it just appears as a mechanical color change.
I'm a little confused with;
" Created a jumped relay like this.
Will try this on next time the system fails. "
That left most relay is unique with the 120 VAC coil did you put the wire on it then take it back off ? Did you use a 24 Volt relay as a form or template to make the jumper ?
The only thing I don't like about the way you did it is the twisted wire, since it makes the wire twice as tall, reducing the effective pin length, the relay may not seat into the socket correctly, however it may be fine that way. If it rocks, keep it square or parallel to the socket or slightly justify it towards the coil pins a bit since I believe the the NC pins are not used. The goal is to make a valid test and not to introduce other things that can also be intermittent.
109A_5