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Re: Expected operation of Gorton #2 during off cycle
So long as those return lines drop down before they tie together, that all sounds quite reasonable — and it's not unusual at all to not hear Gorton #2s in that setting. They're pretty quiet.
And there's no real harm to having the basement warm — and if you want it warm, you are not wasting the oil, are you? The main advantage to insulating mains isn't really the heat loss, but getting heat to the actual radiators a little faster.
Re: Expected operation of Gorton #2 during off cycle
If the system heats fast, I wouldn't worry about it. Perhaps when the boiler shuts down the steam collapses in the radiators first, but I am sure the Gorton's are letting air in. Sounds like a non issue.
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
@PC7060 said water coming out of valve is solid indicator of failed tank. You should be able to pick up a new one at local big box.
Ouch. Water from the air side of the tank is a definite sign that the tank must be replaced.
There are two types of expansion tanks You want the one for a closed system that comes pre charged to 12 PSI. They are usually Gray or Green. The other type is for an open system like your hot water heater and comes pre charged with over 45 PSI Pressure. They are often White
When you get your replacement tank, you want to fill the air side of the tank with 15 PSI because the Watts 1156 will make the water side 15 PSI. Check that air pressure before you install the replacement tank. That way you will be sure that you have it set correctly.
For now you can still operate the boiler but it will discharge water thru the relief valve if the pressure gets above 30 PSI. Don't worry, it is only water. You can close off the manual feed valve for tonight so you don't keep adding water after every overpressure event. The operating LWCO will protect the boiler in the event your water level gets too low.
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
Yes, sadly, you'll need to replace the tank. The problem with this is that you'll have to go through the entire draining, refilling, and purging procedure all over again. Sorry………….the pitfalls when the original installer did not include the necessary valves to isolate various components in the system.
The tank is precharged to 12 psi. Raise it to 15 psi before you install it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amtrol-No-30-Expansion-Tank-for-Hydronic-Boiler-EX-30/202268962
LRCCBJ
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
As @LRCCBJ said, water coming out of valve is solid indicator of failed tank. You should be able to pick up a new one at local big box.
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Amtrol-No-30-Expansion-Tank-for-Hydronic-Boiler-EX-30/202268962
PC7060
Re: Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
Nice instructions @EdTheHeaterMan.
@ColdMainer - Are all the valves open allowing access to the compression tank?
PC7060
Re: Power vent for a natural gas boiler
As does Tjernlund.
@slateroof , what type of power venter is in there now?
Re: Taco SR506 Switching Relay: thermostat Calls for Heat but zone not activated
" Does this behavior suggest the relays are fine? "
No, intermittent circuit connections are often agitated by vibration and/or heat. It could be the relay contacts or the solder joints and in a very rare occasion a defect or crack in the copper foil of the circuit board.
The relay is probably the issue, but solder joints fail too.
To bypass the relay. Turn off the power.
Remove the relay and insert a very thin wire (the thickness of the relay contact pin) into the socket OR in this case since I believe they are only using the NO contacts, if you can't find a thin enough wire to insert into the socket, carefully, securely rap a short piece of thermostat wire around the two relay pins up near the base of the relay (as illustrated below) and there should be enough of the pin left to make contact with the socket when the relay is re-inserted. The added wire should only touch the desires pins, touching the Coil pins would be bad since there is 120 VAC there !!!
Bottom view of the relay
The solder joints can be inspected rather easily. Turn off the power. Disconnect the thermostat wires, remove the nuts on the left side and gently squeeze the barb on the plastic stand-offs and lift the board just beyond the barb, when all the stand-off barbs are released the board can be raised off all the stand-offs and folded out with the AC wires attached. Or disconnect the AC wires too if that is easier for you. Inspect for cracked solder joints where the relay socket is soldered to the board.
109A_5
