Best Of
Re: I need a small Weil-McLain part if you’ve got one
Well, that sucks.
Sometimes you can cut a longer terminal block down to the five terminals you need. So if you have something longer? You "might" be able use that.
Or you can combine two smaller ones? I wish I could be more definite in my response. It is a matter of trial and error for sure and worth a try if you cant get exactly what you need.
Intplm.
Re: Thermostat Issue
It looks like a heat pump. Unfortunately any thermostat set up for heat pump, the auxiliary can't become the primary.
One option would be to program the thermostat for 2 Stage AC, 1 Stage Heat. If the reversing valve is energized in cooling, jump R and O, or Y and O at the condenser. Then of course the radiant is the only heat source, and that's probably not why they purchased a heat pump.
Seperate thermostats might be the best way. There's obviously no floor sensor, so if the radiant thermostat is at 70°, the heat pump thermostat could be set to 69° or lower.
HVACNUT
Re: Thermostat Issue
Looking at the manual, it appears that this thermostat cannot operate the two systems independently. The "auxiliary" system will engage when the setpoint is 3 degrees above the current room air temperature. At that point, the FAU would engage. I do not see any possibility of operating the two systems independently.
Of course, if they don't push the recovery too far, the FAU would not engage.
Re: Traveling Boiler Techs
I never did that work but I used it one time.
I remember my first commercial boiler job with a combination Gas/Oil burner. Might have been a PowerFlame. I did the commissioning myself and could not get it to run correctly on low oil. So it never got to high oil. I could coax it to high oil flame and get that set up properly but the low oil would not light. I could get the low oil to light but the High oil was smokey. Spent 2 days trying to get it right. Finally I called Weil McLain tech support and they recommended that I purchase their start up service that came with one year of labor warranty.
I bit the bullet and paid the fee. When the tech from WM came, he was actually another contractor like me and I told him my problem. He did exactly what I already did and found the same problem as I did. But he had experience that I did not have, and he went off book. He replaced the nozzles with different specifications and got the firing rate on low and on high to be compatible with each other. That nozzle change I was not prepared to do. Live and learn. The book isn't always right. Once I had that knowledge I never needed to purchase the start up service after that.
Re: Fixing the gurgling at the end of my Steam Mains
Sound like you have a plan.
Having a male copper into a female black pipe seems to hold up well, like your is, I'm not actually sure what code is in this situation.
Once you get the main extended and draining properly that should further reduce any spitting from the vents, I would just see how it goes. The 4 vents have a lot of 90 degree bends to get to them, so it may be fine.
Re: Auto Feed Running when boiler is filled
They both work. They both need maintenance. I like the float type, as it's simple and easily repaired — and very easy to routinely check (the "test" button on the probes checks the circuitry — but not the actual function of the probe) when you blow the float chamber down… but that's me.
Re: Adding water to boiler system
Just exactly that simple. Doesn't even have to really be cold when you do it, either. Keep an eye on the pressure gauge, though — it may increase rather quickly. And then make sure the valves are closed.
Re: Restore crossover?
There will be no real benefit to replacing the vent with a crossover — although a bigger vent there would not come amiss. What may help — possibly a lot — is putting a vent at the end of the riser/runout to those cooler radiators, somewhere just before it connects to the radiator inlets. At least a Gorton #1.
Re: Help choosing a new boiler (Part 3 - the Results! and more questions :)
The mixing valve may be set to 120°F at the factory, or it may be a little off. I have had that problems with other customers that like to take a shower with 125°F water. the standard Mixing valve has a stop at 120°F and if your valve is already set there and the temperature sensing spring is out of calibration, then you will never get the hot water that you want. You may need to get a different valve that has a different temperature range like this one
EDIT: Have the valve you already have checked for the proper adjustment and to see if there is any debris lodged in the valve the is preventing the valve from closing the cold water off enough to get you the 120°F water you want.
New systems often have junk inside the pipes that foul thing up and need to be cleaned out.
Re: Help choosing a new boiler (Part 3 - the Results! and more questions :)
They set heating to 131? I think it needs to be higher.
if you want to take the time to read through the programming section of the manual it will tell you how to change the setting.
Usually the installer will write the settings in the manual as to how they programmed it
turn the red knob to hotter. It should supply 120f . If the tank is at 140? But it looks like they set your dhw to 133, it may need to be hotter for that mixing valve to regulate to 120
hot_rod

