Best Of
Re: Is this ready for welding ?
The work you did looks great. Very neat and it should work well for you. I wish you didn't use a Navien, that's a shame. When that boiler inevitably fails at least you have some nice piping and good components to install on the replacement boiler.
Re: Is this ready for welding ?
Good eye for the Navien SuperTech. Also good advice to the original poster.
psb75
Re: F&T Trap sizing on steam main
Probably not, it's passing condensate.
You'll want to get rid of the arch in your flex hose
Re: Anode rod replacement: Electric vs Standard
no, it was in a dedicated port accessed from above the top area that houses the compressor
Re: Taping the seams of oil boiler exhaust pipe vent pipe?
Yes.
Except when something else goes wrong and it doesn't.
Also high CO means you're sending your money up the chimney.
ChrisJ
Re: Steam ingress in return pipe--puzzling
@ethicalpaul you almost got it. The steam does change speed as Dan describes based on system pressure. It's travel speed is effected by the density of the gas. Also higher pressure allows the condensate to be above 212⁰F so when it enters the low pressure of the return it flashes to steam. This can cause water hammer in the return piping.
Re: Anode rod replacement: Electric vs Standard
Hi, My perspective on sediment is that it's affected by how hard the water is, how much water is used, and how much it's heated. It isn't much affected by sacrificial vs impressed current anode type, though aluminum rods do produce a lot of goo. Rheem uses a magnesium anode, but puts a resistor in the head of the rod to slow it down. This can work too well in clean, relatively unconductive water. 🤔
Yours, Larry
Re: Seeking Guidance on Steam Boiler Issues (1928 Home with 1.95 Million BTU Weil-McLain)
@shames, we've merged your discussions into one here to minimize confusion. Thanks.
Re: Seeking Guidance on Steam Boiler Issues (1928 Home with 1.95 Million BTU Weil-McLain)
You might be able to extend the life of the boiler and give yourself some thinking time by adding sodium silicate to the water. Or any "Boiler Weld" product. Usually frowned Upon but often a good solution. It's not that uncommon for those to develop leaks in the end sections and those are the easiest to replace. That's what I would suggest. The welded headers are the cause of these types of leaks I think.
Grallert