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Constant Circulation Piping Layout
Hello. Thanks to everyone in advance for anyone willing to take a look at this. I have been working on my layout for my CU3A boiler and 79g Viessmann indirect using Runtal radiators (roughly 20) of them for our retrofit for our 1880's home in Boulder, CO.
I think I have it figured out and I have spent time thinking about the location of the check valves? I wondered if the Quicksetters on each manifold branch are a good/helpful idea or should I scrap them?
Certainly would appreciate any input regarding the layout and any mistakes I may have made. Thank you
Amovida
Re: Once Upon A Time, In The White Mountains of NH....
Although "educated" with a mechanical engineering degree and well grounded in the trade of carpentry. Elegant solution is a term often used, that came to full understanding after successfully planning, installing, operating the steam replacement for the previous replacement done, quick and dirty with copper, dangerously lacking the Hartford loop that led to its demise. Having long ago expanded my skill set beyond carpenter steam remained a mystery otherwise I would have recognized and repaired that dangerous piping. I am off topic here, but as Jen would say "circling back", the denial of firing that boiler reminded me of my awareness and astonishment at the quiet, tranquil, delivery of steam heat. That elegant outcome resulted from the extensive research and acquisition of knowledge I was aware I lacked, like the Hartford loop the reading of your knowledge sharing posts revealed the need for so much more.
This is my long winded way of acknowledging this demonstration of heating elegance, and once again extending my gratitude to the steam heads for teaching me to recognize and appreciate craftsmanship at the highest level. Thank you
geo_1111
Re: What would cause such rapid destruction of valves?
Speaking as a homeowner,
Galvanic Corrosion, also known as bi-metallic corrosion caused this.
If you are going to keep this plumbing as is-
When replacing the parts you should be using bronze fittings/pipe nipples etc. all the way back to the heavy wall pipe and tees, and a bronze shut off valve and bronze pipe nipples to shut the boiler water off from the pressure regulator as you should only be filling the system ONCE and shutting the water off and leaving it off. You also need a back flow preventer piped before the water feed and pressure regulator.
leonz
Re: turbo torch tip sizes
I never used to look at the recommended sizes.
I used turbo torch tips and have a pile of them, Even used the turbo torch propane we owned a few of those at the shop I worked at propane being much cheaper than acetelyne.
Sometimes we were soldering or brazing indoors sometimes outdoors in the winter on a roof with wind. Sometimes you had a valve near where you were brazing that you couldn't overheat. Sometimes you need to solder fast or slow. All those things affect tip size.
I prefer the old prestolite tips for smaller stuff as I don't like the "turbo noise" and prefer oxy-aceteylene for brazing but you can't always justify setting that up to do a couple of joints
Just my rant.
I am probably a slow solder, I prefer to use a smaller tip and take more time but there are times this won't work and you have to speed up. It's all a judgement call in the field. Maybe fabricating in a factory is different.
Re: Boiler with indirect water heater only
That's a LOT of hot water. But if that's what it needs, yes just pipe it direct to the boiler in 1-1/2" with a Grundfos 26-99 or equivalent and wire the circ to the orange "DHW pump" output in the junction box underneath the boiler. You can adjust the post-purge time in the settings but they are 30 seconds or less from the factory, I have never timed it. No harm in letting it post purge a little bit to scrub any excess from the exchanger. Easy peasy.
GroundUp
Re: Steam heating system. Leaking pipe connection
the bigger the pipe and tee is in the hartford loop, the more surface of water there is to collapse steam and cause water hammer.
mattmia2
Re: Steam heating system. Leaking pipe connection
I was talking about Hartford loop. I saw this video
That boiler has much smaller in diameter pipes and also they are copper.
Smaller and copper - this would be a lot simpler for me to do, than dealing with black pip cutting and threading.
Is copper a valid option here?
IGonza
Steam Near Piping Equalizer, EFM S20 to SteamMax
This is EFM S20 had it 40 years. Probably 60 years old. Getting US Boiler SteamMax.
3' main. NOTE: see 1-1/4" pipe next to back side of smokestack, curved pipe out of that 3" main coupling, goes to 1-1/2" pipe down to Hartford loop. CAN I USE THIS 1-1/4" PIPE FOR MY EQUALIZER PIPE FOR MY NEW SteamMax ? Don't see easy way of putting 2" on for equalizer.
NOTE 2- I guess my new SteamMax will have (1) 2" main coming up for main supply. CAN I COME UP OUT OF NEW SteamMax 2" PIPE DO A 3' high DROP HEADER THEN TIE IN AT FLANGE ?
2,600 Sq Feet, 2 story, one pipe steam radiators with condensate return lines to boiler at floor joist under each radiator for basement mains.
DenMan
Re: Question on indirect tank setup without also having a hot water heating system
Unless the camp is in Chittenden, Frankin or Addison County its LP gas. And it is limited in those areas.
Where you are there only sometime a tankless WH it the way to go. Only make what you use.
They have some pretty good water treatment set ups for tankless WH that protect from scale.
Zilmet makes a nice unit.
You can get smaller tankless WH…no need to get a 199K btu unit. Unless you need it.
They are available in 160K and Takagi makes one that is 140K
There is no way I would even consider a heat pump WH.
Plus if you are not there much the risk of legionella bacteria is a possibility of growing in the tank… even a gas tank is a possibility.
Ask Mark Eatherton about that….
kcopp