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converting a coil boiler to a gas wats the eff60, 65, 70% ?

When it’s time for resale all that asbestos and that antique will be lowering the value.

@EBEBRATT-Ed Smaller yet with more surface area is fine with me.

With more efficient burners, more powerfull pumps.

If they'd make them out of inconel625 or 904L

I wouldn't "mind"

😁

Kiturami has an interesting design that works in condensing oil boiler.

Just don't use fuel with high sulphur in it.

Might fall apart ,even if its 316 stainless...

Although still a tubular tubes even finned design.

Originally from the 1800's 😁

I'm still "waiting" for an oil condensing boiler with 109% efficiency with thermal conductivity of copper ,corrosion resistance to any acid and lifetime warranty on anything in it 🙄

well, that's how long new gas boilers last.

I changed one Saunier Duval after about 12 years.

And the electronics failed(not worth repairing and no spare parts available).

Next is a condensing unit installed about 2 years old now.

No problems whatsoever! (so far...)

As for your faults: if it was the main heat exchanger(not secondary one plates type for domestic hot water) , that's the one that usually takes the whole brunt for most of the time!

And I know an enginner at Renault(yes cars not heating stuff) but he does all the AC systems testing in new or prototype cars.

He admit it: they usually design and build a product as best they can with the given materials(not the best/expensive) then after few tests they"put"/create faults in the products and then re-test a number of hours so they fail after sold to customer, shortly after it goes out of waranty.

It's common practice in many domains ,so they sell more products or spare parts(wich "coincidentally" are not cheap...)

The age of very reliable products that last decades is long gone.

I would say it ended somewhere in 2000's.

Viessman and MHG still make good products ,from my knowledge(not much experience, I lost patience with oil stuff).

Or maybe I'm wrong 😁

https://mhg.de/

Here are the things that can limit it to my knowledge:

1. How many BTUs it takes to heat the main
2. The main venting
3. How many BTUs the boiler can deliver

Those are the variables. Which of those variables are you willing to change in order to make your main fill up with steam faster?

1. You can insulate the main
2. You can increase the main venting
3. Is anyone actually going to upsize their boiler in order to fill the main faster?

Yes in normal operation #1 slows the steam down a lot. This is why I believe that the vent capacity chart is not very useful. I prefer timing the main vent (at several temperatures) to find out how much venting you "need" vs how much it costs.

This is also why I'm constantly recommending Gorton #1 when others are recommending Gorton #2. We are on the same side of this argument but for different reasons I think, which is of course fine.

PS: note that I said "nearly instantly fill a warm or hot main". I chose those words carefully. This condition only occurs during very cold weather, or possibly when my CycleGard kicks in LOL (but I believe even that doesn't let much or any air back in the system before it lets the boiler fire back up)

Check your Hartford Loop and make sure the top of the close nipple is not installed too high. Most boiler ma nufacturers say 2 in. below normal water line. Peerless says 2 to 4 in. If it is too high it might be inhibiting return of condensate to the boiler and the whole thing just escalates from there.

@PhilKulkarni You could try a Heat Timer Varivalve. They adjust from 0.20 to 1.13 cfm at 3 oz. pressure. Your MOM C is 0.583 cfm. Varivalve at 50% closure setting is actually 0.766 cfm.

My boiler is running about a 28% duty cycle now with t-stat at 64 F in Union County, NJ at about 10 deg F outside and avg. windspeed of 2.1mph and gusts of 8mph.. What duty cycle is yours doing?

How does it help the OP to ignore that mechanical wet steam leading into the extreme case of carry over does occur when there are defects in the OP's near boiler piping that "could" be contributing to what they are experiencing? I don't see that it would serve them to suggest that the only thing that could be contributing to their carry over is water quality. First fix what is easiest to fix and of course that is water quality. In my case that is what I am doing and getting by as long as I watch the situation like a hawk. After that is fixed see where you are at and re-assess the situation.

It is incorrect to suggest that dryness fraction doesn't decrease (wetter steam and more entrained droplets of water) as ppm of TSS (total suspended solids) increases (and there are other issues such as pH and TDS) and that it could eventually lead to what everyone would agree would be called carry over. Doesn't help their situation to deny that fact and it is misleading to do so. Where one becomes the other is a waste of time to argue about as well when they are both caused by the same things.