Best Of
Re: Indirect Water Heater not level ?
Hi, I'm not thrilled to see the tank help up on one side with a small block of wood. Looks like something to go wrong in future. I'd rather see a much broader support that couldn't so easily fail and possibly damage the piping. 🤔
Yours, Larry
Re: Main vents on Steam system
In large systems they reduce the trunk as the load gets smaller, but that is just for cost savings. Most residential systems just use one size trunk. They aren't like my system that was installed around 1950 where the trunk reduces at each takeoff and every piece was custom fabricated for the system including the rectangular ducts to the registers themselves.
mattmia2
GoldLine CM_50 solar control system
I have this system in my clients house and she says she has never used it in 30+ years. It is tied in to the hot water heater and I would like to see about removing the whole system from the house it has three solar panels on the roof how would I go about removing it safely
Re: Oversized overtall chimney?
I have checked the specs on B-vent and not one tells us what temperature it has to be heated to vent. Chimneys are not mechanical devices. They are chases. You don't have to heat ductwork to get heat to flow. Can you oversize a steam pipe? look at some old chimneys on commercial buildings and their massive brick chimneys. Think they get heated before they vent. And why do chimneys vent in the summer when nothing operating?
Draft is a sign of combustion air. The higher the draft the more combustion air is available. The taller the chimney the higher the draft.
A neutral pressure point is also called a blast gas. Back in the 80's there was a product called a Thermizer that was a flue restrictor for residential and light commercial. They were very dangerous on drafthood equipment if you didn't understand venting and combustion air.
The chimney is too big was created by manufacters to make contractors look bad and then really pushed by liner companys.
Blast gate, barometric combined can do the trick.
And bring the firing rate back up some
Re: Oversized overtall chimney?
@HydronicMike "Chimney's can never be too big"
Yes, they can. The boiler or furnace has to be capable of heating the chimney up to create draft. A chimney that is really oversized will not draw well.
Re: Oversized overtall chimney?
Any draft measurements or combustion numbers? Room pressurization/depressurization checked?
Really concerned about severe downfiring and CO.
Chimneys can never be too big.
Re: Oversized overtall chimney?
Install a "fan in a can" near the boiler. You obviously don't have enough combustion air available for the boiler if your drafts increase when the boiler is running. The boiler needs and is looking for combustion air. With a "fan in a can" you can bring in somewhat controlled combustion air. Then invest in weatherization of your house. Having drafts thru windows,walls and, doors like that is very costly on your fuel bill. there are so many government programs to help with the cost.
pedmec
My last HTP, and some Cross manifolds!
I piped this thing probably 2 months ago and got it running for the 4 zones of radiant (new 2500 sq ft shed/house/shouse deal) and have been waiting for the plumber forever so I could commission the indirect. Finally got back there last night and fired everything up and set the mixing valve, I must say I'm impressed and disappointed at the same time with HTP. I love these UFT boilers, but I have been having issues with availability (nobody will carry parts within 100 miles) and the online suppliers just aren't doing me any favors. Also this particular SSU-45 showed up with missing screws, a badly snaggled up sticker, and no control and I had to buy another one because they wouldn't make it right. Awesome combination here for functionality, but it's time to move on to something more available and that will stand behind their QC flaws. This is my 13th UFT for 2019 and they've all been great, just time to move on. A side note though, these Cross manifolds are fanfreakingtastic. Heavy and big, but awesome. I will never use actuators again if these continue to work the way they have been! And yes, I should have piped the indirect off the bottom ports but they didn't leave me enough room to do that.
GroundUp
Re: Is this ridiculous? Pool heat pump for space heating/cooling
If the pump is rated for the pressure, temperature and type of fluid, I don't think it matters what it is called.Yeah I can appreciate that thought, but at the same time, what's the point of using a system that's over engineered for the job required?pecmsg said:Is it designed for space heating..................NO so why even consider it?
Products cost more when they have more features and range, if you don't need 50% of what it can do why pay for it?
I love the idea of hydronic heating and cooling and where I live (Melbourne), we have mild winters and warm/hot summers. I don't believe I need these high end heat pumps that can produce 65c/75c or 7c/8c water when 30c/35c or 15c/18c is only needed.
At the end of the day, I just need to heat some water to a certain temp and move it through some pipes. A pool ASHP does that doesn't it?
Not trying to offend, there obviously much more too it than that but you get what I mean.... Hopefully...
A pool pump may have a different NEMA motor if it is for outdoor use. And the seal material may be more specific to highly chlorinated water, EPDN or Viton for example.
Some types of pumps have a required suction head, largely ignored in some hydronic application like open systems OWF applications
hot_rod