Floor Closet Flange Toilet
The flange has no openings on the radius edges or anywhere to take the johnny bolts out. This must be some old design from years ago. Bolts in there are kind of short and may be a problem installing. I noticed there were no nuts on the bolts holding the toilet to the flange so this presented a problem in the past. Has anyone encountered this?
I would prefer to work something out rather than having to do soldering to the lead bend,etc or even replacing flange by bolting to the floor. Doing some measuring to see if the bolts will come through and I'll be able to secure a nut.
Comments
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Can you show us a picture of what you are trying to describe? Very old toilets were just bolted to the floor over the flange. Do you mean you can't remove the bolts from the flange? There are repair flanges that may be screwed over the original flange, that might be what you're looking at. A lead bend can be formed in to a flange but the toilet would have to bolt to the floor or a repair flange on top of it.
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turn the bolts 1/4 turn and see if they loft out.
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You may be able to bolt a repair flange to the existing as @mattmia2 said
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There are also some models of toilets from about the past 10-15 years that have their own adapter that bolts to the flange. Knowing if this is 20 years old or 130 would help a lot.
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Here, lead bends must be replaced.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
here is an update..got back to this job..replaced seals and gaskets on a brass 2 inch flush valve and put in a fluidmaster fill valve which i got from another toilet. i used the existing floor flange which was very solid and the lead bend was fine and soldered to the floor flange. Was able to place the toilet over the two existing unremovable johnny bolts and caught threads and was able to secure the toilet tightly to the floor over a jumbo thick wax seal. So far so good. Thanks for the info! I just like rebuilding old stuff. I would have used an old brass fill valve but it leaked from the top and kit was some crazy amount so used the one I had. Maybe if I can get a kit at a reasonable price or just take it apart and take a look at a later date. Sometimes things just have to be cleaned up or reversed.
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Is it a coast or something else? weirdly searching for "coast" on supplyhouse.com comes up with nothing but if you search for ballcock repair kit you get "Standard Large Head Kit w/ Three Screws For Coast"
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Can’t go wrong with a Fluidmaster. They beat out the brass ones by a mile. Easy to install and service.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
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Corkys are ok as well.
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ok..will see what happens…fixed for now but will see and monitor the situation. So Alan you say the fluidmaster flush valve is a better choice than the old brass ones. What will be different if I Change out the brass one for a fluidmaster?
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It's been a long time since I used brass ballcocks; I have to think back why I switched. I'd pay a premium price for a Wolverine valve, but that wasn't the issue as I always liked using quality components.
It seemed that the washers would easily foul and the toilet would run and run and run. Sometimes the float would hang up on the side of the tank and often, the water level would change and I'd have to bend the float rod to bring it back to the proper level.
The Fluidmaster is just so much easier. The only problem that I have with them is when the very small diameter (~¼") inlet tube gets fouled with a chunk of mineral deposit on older, galvanized water systems, but it's easy to get to and quickly resolved.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
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Brass tends to get plated with the minerals in the water and stick. The seal in a conventional ballcock compresses more and more over time and changes the level. The mechanism usually has more of a gradual open and close action rather than a snap on and off so that causes a lot more wear on the seal and seat and tends to make leaks go unnoticed because it just silently refills it. They are a lot harder to adjust. Most are not adjustable to bring the vacuum breaker above the overflow but below the tank, they have to be bought in the right size. The fluidmaster just requires a lot less attention(and i'd imaging the korky knockoff that is changed just enough to avoid the patents).
EDIT: I thought the korky was the one that was a fluidmaster just slightly different, that I guess was another one, maybe a kohler.
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Fluidmaster did rebrand some of their 400A valves as Kohlers.
I've seen the Korky but have never used one. Can they be repaired as easily as a Fluidmaster?
Also, does anyone remember "20th Century Products" and their fill and flush valves?
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I have used Korky but it still works so don't know about repairing them.
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ok..great..this is great input…afterall i have the opportunity to work on more toilets than just this one and will remember this information when i need to address another issue.
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We stopped using Fluidmaster when the company owner passed and manufacturing was moved to Mexico. In NYC, 3/8 copper tubing is required for a toilet and hose is not permitted. The Mexican plastic Fluidmaster tubing nuts began cracking in half and leaking water below the valve.
We had a full time job of replacing them with brass ones. Couldn't keep up with them. Every week we'dget two or three.
Around that time, Fluidmaster introduced a model with a brass stem and nut, but the damage was done.
We've replaced them all with American Korkys.
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korky stopped making the standard flapper with the collar for the overflow tube built in. you can buy it special but it isn't the one that is widely distributed. i have their adapter collar with molded pins and the collarless flapper and it seems to every once in a while shift and not seal right.
the one disadvantage of the plastric ballcocks is that the disinfectant in municipal water can degrade them and make the body fail catastrophically.
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@mattmia2 Do you know which disinfectant? We have chloramine in our water and I haven’t heard of any problems.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
I think there is or was a warning to replace it every x years because the chlorine degrades the plastic somewhere in the fine print.
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I have to say that I think they are made better than they ever were. I don't think the move to Mexico made any issue to their quality.
Most modern toilets don't have space for a ballcock, brass or otherwise, and since they have become a boutique item the price is ridiculous.
Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating1 -
There's always warnings like that.
They tell you to change washing machine hoses every 5 years. Mine came with the house in 2011 and they weren't new then..... I have new ones I just bought but haven't gotten around to changing them yet.
Just because they cover their butt doesn't mean it's representative of real life performance.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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