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Re: Electrode change out how often?
If I'm looking at the piping correctly, (and somebody please tell me if I'm wrong) the primary pump is in the wrong location. Its dead heading against the return.
Also, what do you mean by "the service guy never installed a variable draft"? A draft regulator? I don't see one either.
Also, what do you mean by "the service guy never installed a variable draft"? A draft regulator? I don't see one either.
HVACNUT
0
Re: Any trick to lining up pipes when replacing...? (Aaand - DONE!)
How is it our fault you used the wrong size pipes? 
ChrisJ
1
Re: Condensing Gas Boiler Questions (Forced Air)
I did a heat loss calculation and came out to around 57,000 btu for the entire house based on my region and house. ~1200 sq ft, built in 1958, shoreline Connecticut.Did anyone on the "DIY" forum question that heatloss figure?
A good ballpark heatloss number to use on modern/post war 2X4 construction homes in the USA is between 15-30BTU's/sq-ft, with the many coming in under 20BTU's/sq-ft. There are longtime contractors here who have stated that they have never seen a 30BTU/sq-ft heatloss home during their entire career.
You calculation puts you at 47.5BTU/sq-ft heatloss!
Give the Slant/Fin app a try:
http://www.slantfin.com/professionals/
NY_Rob
1
Re: New Boiler Return Connection
im not a fan of the logimatic, i use a honeywell l7224u
Re: Pipe size
I got the 5/8 from my water bill. Will double check when I get home about actual size entering house. I do know that from my side of the meter it's all 1/2 inch. I live on Long Island NY. The space is in a basement. Unfortunately the basement ceiling is finished. So I would like to take the easier route if possible and go along the wall where my return for boiler condensate runs. The house is set up as the water comes in runs about 75 feet (25 to back wall then 90 degree turn)to hot water tank then runs back 75 feet and then up to fixtures. All plumbing fixtures are located on same back corner of house. 1st floor kitchen and 1/2bath next to each other and then 2nd floor full bath.
Stangob
0
Re: Pipe size
Where did you get the 5/8" number from?
Pretty typical is 3/4" (7/8" OD) service line coming into the house.
Some water meters are called 5/8" (internally) but have 3/4" connections.
Pretty typical is 3/4" (7/8" OD) service line coming into the house.
Some water meters are called 5/8" (internally) but have 3/4" connections.
JUGHNE
0
Re: Navien - Would you?!?
I had one of their tankless water heater installed in my house with a recalculation loop. No issues in 5 years. Pretty easy install. Put on in at a commercial kitchen as a booster heater at the end of a large building loop that was only at 120F. Only issue was that return water had to be less than 90F or it faulted out on I assume high flue temp. Ran fine after a mixing valve was installed.
But I think in the end, you are better off with a Lochinvar or maybe just stick with a good WM or Burnham with indirect tank and realize that when you factor in the 4-5% lower efficiency but consider the cost savings and lifespan of the equipment, in the end, you are money ahead. Mod-cons make more sense in new construction or where you have limited space or have venting issues. Another might be wide swings in demand.
Remember a good cast iron boiler can hit 85-87% efficiency with minimal electrical consumption when installed right. A mod con installed wrong or in the wrong situation might only get 88-92% efficiency and require more electricity for the inducer as well. You need return water temps under 110F to get much out of a mod-con to justify it's short lifespan.
But I think in the end, you are better off with a Lochinvar or maybe just stick with a good WM or Burnham with indirect tank and realize that when you factor in the 4-5% lower efficiency but consider the cost savings and lifespan of the equipment, in the end, you are money ahead. Mod-cons make more sense in new construction or where you have limited space or have venting issues. Another might be wide swings in demand.
Remember a good cast iron boiler can hit 85-87% efficiency with minimal electrical consumption when installed right. A mod con installed wrong or in the wrong situation might only get 88-92% efficiency and require more electricity for the inducer as well. You need return water temps under 110F to get much out of a mod-con to justify it's short lifespan.
