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Removal of 80 gallon stone lined water heater
Back in May I decided to finally replace our 80 gallon stone lined Vaughn electric water heater. It was over 20 years old but not leaking and may have lasted forever but it's an energy pig for two people. These Vaughn stone lined tank were very popular with the electric utilities installed them (including this one before we owned this place) for years. But our local utility gave up on that a few years back and said "you now own the tank."
Thanks a lot!!!
I knew it was going to be a PITA and wanted to get it done before it let go or I got any older. It probably would outlast me!
So, I bought a new 40 gallon and installed it back in May. The old heater with the cement lining is about 400# empty. I got it up on some 1" pipe for rollers and pushed it to the side where it sat and sat LOL
I stripped the plastic jacket off it and then all the 2" foam. Originally, I thought I would cut it with a grinder with a cutting disk and then break up the concrete. The stairs are very tight with a sharp turn at the top and bottom. No outside entrance to the cellar.
The cellar is semi-finished off so I hung plastic around the tank area and with safety goggles and a mask started cutting. It just made too much of a mess and the neighbors (we are in a condo) complained about the noise. I folded back part of the steel (1/8" thick) and tried busting the concrete and that was going to be tough. I also tried a Sawzall and bought a metal cutting blade for my Skill saw and that didn't work out well either
So, then I tried call a few junk guys to take it out. No one wanted anything to do with it. The one honest guy told me to cut it up he would have to charge me over $xxxx.xx to take it out.
Time for plan B
So today (while my girlfriend was gone for the day) was my time to strike.
I used a Come a Long and pulled it up the stairs which worked like a dream. Once I was all set up I had it upstairs in 10-15 min.
I used a 5/8" eye bolt with a rod coupling and a piece of rod with some nuts and washers a made a hole in the sheet rock wall.
Now you know why I waited till she was gone.
I put a 3' 2 x 6 on each side of the wall to sandwich the wall. No damage to the sheet rock at all except for the 1" hole I made which I patched.
So, the good news is I got it out of the celler!!
Bad news is it's sitting in the kitchen so I am still feeling the heat.
I got to wait to get my brother to give me a hand getting it out the door down 3 steps and onto my trailer.
But I let my Neice borrow the trailer and when I texted her today, she said it is sitting in her yard full of mulch and has a flat tire.
When I stretched out my come a long it was 3" short. So, I had a few xtra shackles I made up the distance with. Of course when I got up to the top step I ran out of cable and had to disconnect the shackles. I drilled a hole in the tank and used a piece of 1/4" wire rope and some clips up and back up through the HW outlet to hook on to the tank.
So the saga continues!!


Thanks a lot!!!
I knew it was going to be a PITA and wanted to get it done before it let go or I got any older. It probably would outlast me!
So, I bought a new 40 gallon and installed it back in May. The old heater with the cement lining is about 400# empty. I got it up on some 1" pipe for rollers and pushed it to the side where it sat and sat LOL
I stripped the plastic jacket off it and then all the 2" foam. Originally, I thought I would cut it with a grinder with a cutting disk and then break up the concrete. The stairs are very tight with a sharp turn at the top and bottom. No outside entrance to the cellar.
The cellar is semi-finished off so I hung plastic around the tank area and with safety goggles and a mask started cutting. It just made too much of a mess and the neighbors (we are in a condo) complained about the noise. I folded back part of the steel (1/8" thick) and tried busting the concrete and that was going to be tough. I also tried a Sawzall and bought a metal cutting blade for my Skill saw and that didn't work out well either
So, then I tried call a few junk guys to take it out. No one wanted anything to do with it. The one honest guy told me to cut it up he would have to charge me over $xxxx.xx to take it out.
Time for plan B
So today (while my girlfriend was gone for the day) was my time to strike.
I used a Come a Long and pulled it up the stairs which worked like a dream. Once I was all set up I had it upstairs in 10-15 min.
I used a 5/8" eye bolt with a rod coupling and a piece of rod with some nuts and washers a made a hole in the sheet rock wall.
Now you know why I waited till she was gone.
I put a 3' 2 x 6 on each side of the wall to sandwich the wall. No damage to the sheet rock at all except for the 1" hole I made which I patched.
So, the good news is I got it out of the celler!!
Bad news is it's sitting in the kitchen so I am still feeling the heat.
I got to wait to get my brother to give me a hand getting it out the door down 3 steps and onto my trailer.
But I let my Neice borrow the trailer and when I texted her today, she said it is sitting in her yard full of mulch and has a flat tire.
When I stretched out my come a long it was 3" short. So, I had a few xtra shackles I made up the distance with. Of course when I got up to the top step I ran out of cable and had to disconnect the shackles. I drilled a hole in the tank and used a piece of 1/4" wire rope and some clips up and back up through the HW outlet to hook on to the tank.
So the saga continues!!



custom feet for our old wall-hung rads
made a 3d reproduction model of these bolt-on feet and had them machined out of aluminum. All will be powder coated a nice metallic bronze












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Re: What is the highest efficiency residential boiler?
Ironman is giving solid advice... you can often cut fuel consumption 20 to 30% just by making sure the system is working optimally...i,e. installing and properly setting up the thermostat for steam can cut fuel usage about 12% if the current thermostat is not set up properly. For a boiler replacement, you may want to first make sure the new boiler is properly sized. You may want to look at small power burner boilers ( ie. Peerless EC) These should give you even better efficiency. This type of boiler is used in large commercial applications, but can be had in a small size. The EC heat exchanger is designed for use both for gas and oil firing, while most small power burner boilers are designed mainly for oil firing.
Also, another thing to remember is that the simple atmospheric boiler uses about 1/80th ( not 1/8th) the electricity of a "high efficiency" forced air furnace and somewhere around a quarter of a "high efficiency" hot water boiler. The efficiency numbers on equipment are extremely misleading when comparing different types of equipment as they are not based upon the total energy consumption of the equipment and the losses in a typical system.
Also, another thing to remember is that the simple atmospheric boiler uses about 1/80th ( not 1/8th) the electricity of a "high efficiency" forced air furnace and somewhere around a quarter of a "high efficiency" hot water boiler. The efficiency numbers on equipment are extremely misleading when comparing different types of equipment as they are not based upon the total energy consumption of the equipment and the losses in a typical system.
Re: Like a boy with new Toy Blocks & Erector set at Christmas 🎄
Its a factory epoxy...I prefer this connection for the following reasons:
1) I can't stand PVC closet flanges or the metal ring type. I've see the metal ones rust off after 10 years and the pvc ones get brittle an snap off...NOW YOURE SCREWED!
2) a Lead bend is very tight dimensionially, yet a nice 👌 radius for flow.
3) I can roll a lead bend on unorthodox angles (where fittings can't) to avoid cutting floor joists.
4) I leave a 6" x 12" pvc sleeve around the lead bend so the tile guy doesn't bury me like the always seem to. When Mud job and tile are complete, I can wiggle out the sleeve and now I've got ample room to kick the lead in any direction I want to dial in my wall distance gap to the tank. Every bowl is different and there's nothing I hate more than seeing 2"s between the back of the toilet 🚻 tank and the wall!!!
5) The Brass closet flange soldered to the lead bend will likely hold up longer than the pvc itself...time will tell.
That's why I love 💘 lead bends. Mad Dog 🐕
1) I can't stand PVC closet flanges or the metal ring type. I've see the metal ones rust off after 10 years and the pvc ones get brittle an snap off...NOW YOURE SCREWED!
2) a Lead bend is very tight dimensionially, yet a nice 👌 radius for flow.
3) I can roll a lead bend on unorthodox angles (where fittings can't) to avoid cutting floor joists.
4) I leave a 6" x 12" pvc sleeve around the lead bend so the tile guy doesn't bury me like the always seem to. When Mud job and tile are complete, I can wiggle out the sleeve and now I've got ample room to kick the lead in any direction I want to dial in my wall distance gap to the tank. Every bowl is different and there's nothing I hate more than seeing 2"s between the back of the toilet 🚻 tank and the wall!!!
5) The Brass closet flange soldered to the lead bend will likely hold up longer than the pvc itself...time will tell.
That's why I love 💘 lead bends. Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Heating Pros: Please Help Us With This Quick Survey
Thank you all for sharing your thoughts with us. This was meant to be an overview and that is why it's short. Your feedback has been very insightful and we appreciate you taking the time.
Re: Heat Pump Options
These are ducted units, so no heads. Since electric resistance is the backup (ducted), the contractors are trying to get the heat needed at very low temperatures, which is why the units are large. House is 1,000 SF above grade. Heat load calculation is based on backing out the current worst month BTU per HDG natural gas use. It matches the Slant Fin program calculation (that I happened to still have on my computer) pretty well, about 16k BTUH at -7 F. We are disconnecting the gas, since the connection fee is more than the gas use fee and we have the ability to cover the electric with expanding our photovoltaic system. Thanks!
Re: Peerless Install
Yeah, I think you're right. It seems to be something with the appliance. The barometric was kind of a Hail Mary... thinking that excessive draft was causing impingement or something. I'll try calling Peerless. Also reached out to EzzyT today. He'll hopefully be able to come take a look when his schedule permits.

2
Re: Transformer/ pump relay combo
The relay I indicated above is rated 40VA. however I always add a Smoke Keeper
Here is the relay comparison from the Grundfos to the Fan Center. If you can read wiring diagrams you will see that they are identical as to function.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-D-90113-Fan-Center-DPDT-Relay-120V
Just mount the relay on a square box.
This is the Smoke Keeper I referred to above. It keeps the factory installed smoke inside the transformer.

You keep referring to putting components into a box of some type. I wonder if you can take a picture of the box you have that you want to put this stuff into?
Here is the relay comparison from the Grundfos to the Fan Center. If you can read wiring diagrams you will see that they are identical as to function.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-D-90113-Fan-Center-DPDT-Relay-120V
Just mount the relay on a square box.
This is the Smoke Keeper I referred to above. It keeps the factory installed smoke inside the transformer.

You keep referring to putting components into a box of some type. I wonder if you can take a picture of the box you have that you want to put this stuff into?
Re: Does anyone know what this gauge is on oil burning furnace?
Hello and good afternoon Mr. Miller,
It is a one way check valve with a pressure gauge and Shraeder fitting to prime the oil feeding system.
If you want to treat your oil tank you can visit Tractor Supply Company, Farm and Fleet, Menards, the local farm co-op store or a truck stop in your area and buy a jug of HEET or 9-1-1 to treat your heating oil.
Leon
It is a one way check valve with a pressure gauge and Shraeder fitting to prime the oil feeding system.
If you want to treat your oil tank you can visit Tractor Supply Company, Farm and Fleet, Menards, the local farm co-op store or a truck stop in your area and buy a jug of HEET or 9-1-1 to treat your heating oil.
Leon

2