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Re: Low-level CO monitor education
I took Jim's course around 2004 and half a dozen times since. I try to go to dinner with him or David when they're in town. Two brilliant minds that have saved many, many lives and many businesses.
Re: Correcting the code inspector
And at the end of the day, if you kill them with kindness, they are still dead at the end of the day.
A little diplomacy can go a long way.
A little diplomacy can go a long way.
Intplm.
1
Re: Correcting the code inspector
Building used an old power boiler only for heating. O psi. B & M inspector wanted boiler tested on account of ASME stamp. Instead of discussing I ignored him. Guess I was the a**hole? Eventually inspector called officials and they made me test. I was upset at the time but years later I see it the other way.
jumper
1
Re: Correcting the code inspector
A technique that I always use when dealing with an inspector, I learned from a woman. I was in a store discussing wallpaper with a woman and in making her point she said to me at the end of her thought, "Don't you think." Imagine that, a woman asking my opinion. I could have gotten down on my knees and kissed her feet, it made such an impact on me.
Asking an inspector for his opinion makes him an ally and will get you the most favorable outcome. Try it, it is magical words.
Asking an inspector for his opinion makes him an ally and will get you the most favorable outcome. Try it, it is magical words.
Re: The Legacy of the Dead Men
Amen...I revere these men...they created and improved 👏..Brilliant and dogged! Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Replace low hanging black steel pipes with Pex tubing in homerun config to radiators?
Great looking install. I like seeing the steel piping painted.
Grazie for the Caleffi parts.
Grazie for the Caleffi parts.
hot_rod
1
Re: Oil Tank Piping
Water will be trapped in tank in top draw or side tap configurations. It can drain out in bottom draw assuming the tank is pitched per code. Outside tanks collect more water than inside, hence the code change. BTW, I am on NFPA31 committee currently but was not in 2020 when this was writtenEBEBRATT-Ed said:So the way I read 7.8.7 is if you come off the bottom you don't need secondary containment. If you come off the top or side you do?? Am I reading this right? It makes no sense to me that secondary containment is not needed coming off the bottom but is on the side or the top. Tell me if I am not reading it right. And why the requirement for secondary containment outside but not in a basement? I understand no one here wrote the code. Just looking for the reason.
Re: Old Steam System worth Keeping? Best options to replace?
I have restored or rehabbed a number of old or historic houses in the last 40 years and consulted on many others. I know of many houses where the person starting the rehab removed ALL of the radiators and steam or hot water piping. Modernizing was the rationale. Not one single one of those houses has a successful, comfortable environment as a result of a new forced air system. Of those in which the rehabber still lives in the house, they all regret their decision.
All through central heating history, cast iron radiant heat, whether steam or hot water, was the premium type of heating. Movement away from cast iron was almost entirely based on economy of installation, not performance or efficiency.
@Jamie Hall and @Steamhead Have given you the best and most complete recommendations and I totally agree with them, no point on restating it.
All through central heating history, cast iron radiant heat, whether steam or hot water, was the premium type of heating. Movement away from cast iron was almost entirely based on economy of installation, not performance or efficiency.
@Jamie Hall and @Steamhead Have given you the best and most complete recommendations and I totally agree with them, no point on restating it.
Re: Old Steam System worth Keeping? Best options to replace?
The easiest, cheapest and simplest approach is @ScottSecor 's. Replace the boiler with a nice new properly sized gas fired one, remove the radiators and refinish the floors, and reinstall the radiators with new inlet valves. You could probably repair the old valves as well -- they are very simple to bring up to like new condition unless they have really been hammered, and that saves the trouble of removing the old valves and their connections to the radiators.
Problem is, installing the new boiler takes a competent steam person, and the only one in your area I'm really happy with is Ryan at @New England SteamWorks -- but I daresay he's just a bit busy. No harm to contacting him, though. If you are west of Boston, you might also try @Charlie from wmass in Springfield, but I know he's about as busy as he can be, too, and doesn't work -- to my knowledge anyway -- in Boston itself.
If the boiler actually runs, though, you can do the radiators part of the job now without doing the boiler at the same time.
I can't completely agree with @Hot_water_fan on this one. There is indeed something to be said for a heat pump and air conditioning -- but installing adequate ductwork in an old Boston area building is going to be a horrible job and quite disruptive -- and permanently so, unless you like the industrial look...
Problem is, installing the new boiler takes a competent steam person, and the only one in your area I'm really happy with is Ryan at @New England SteamWorks -- but I daresay he's just a bit busy. No harm to contacting him, though. If you are west of Boston, you might also try @Charlie from wmass in Springfield, but I know he's about as busy as he can be, too, and doesn't work -- to my knowledge anyway -- in Boston itself.
If the boiler actually runs, though, you can do the radiators part of the job now without doing the boiler at the same time.
I can't completely agree with @Hot_water_fan on this one. There is indeed something to be said for a heat pump and air conditioning -- but installing adequate ductwork in an old Boston area building is going to be a horrible job and quite disruptive -- and permanently so, unless you like the industrial look...
