Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Re: Weil-McLain downfiring disagreement with my oil company
So instead of a drizzle, you're looking for a downpour.jesmed1 said:PS, I'm looking into the cost of converting to natural gas using Carlin EZ Gas burners in place of the Beckett AFG's we now have, and today made me want to do that conversion more than ever.
I feel your pain but nobody wants to put their name on what you propose.
The boilers are oversized. Converting to downfired gas burners won't change that. And bring an umbrella because then you'll really see some condensation.
Was the building 3 times the size at one point? Why are those boilers so big?
HVACNUT
1
Re: Pressure relief valve won’t discharge water
Okay, lots of stuff. Just so I know, @STEVEusaPA, why is the feed/expansion tank a fiasco? Is it just the rust or is it in the wrong place or should be configured differently? Good idea to fix it while pressures’s down, please tell me exactly what’s bad so I can do that.
Yes, I now know the draft regulator is on the wrong place (should go on the side, I think). It’s just that there’s so much going on with this stuff I’ve been leaving that for later.
Good catch @WMno57, it’s not a water softener, it’s a neutralizer, for pH. We still have very hard water.
@psb75 regarding the check valve, is this thing (in picture below) a check valve?
Lastly, please tell me how to depressurize and repressurize. Close all ball valves from feed and to and from zones, isolating the boiler, and then open the drain valve? Purge somehow after refilling boiler from feed when done?
Before I do anything else, I’m going to go get a pressure gauge for the drain valve as per @EBEBRATT-Ed to see if there’s really pressure.
Re: Steam Plumbers westchester NY
I ended up hiring F DiGiacomo plumbing out of Tuckahoe to replace a failed independence boiler with a new steammax in a house we recently purchased in mamaroneck. John, the owner of F DiGiacomo, was very knowledgeable about low pressure steam boilers and was well versed in Dan Holohan's work. They only install Burnham boilers so if you are interested in a Peerless 63 series you may have to look elsewhere.
barretcf
1
Heavily Modified Mouat
Hello all,
Looked at what is left of a Mouat System today. It has a lot of issues and looking for some input from you all. Honestly, not sure we are even going to bid this job because of it.
On arrival the first thing that got my attention was the vent from the condensate pump is actually piped OUTSIDE! I asked the homeowner if they see steam coming out of that and they said it is so heavy at times its hard to use the entrance on that side of the home. Its been like that for years, and yes the boiler is rotted out.
One of the steam mains has an F/T at the end of it, the other does not. They both tie into dry returns and make their way to the condensate pump. The pressure-trols are cranked to the max as well... Just as you'd guess.
I want to eliminate the condensate pump completely. My question is, if I drip the dry returns down to the floor making them wet returns before getting to the boiler is that a viable option? There is a Hoffman #75 main vent at the end of both mains before they go there respective dry returns.
I have other info I can add, I just didn't want to add too much and muddy the waters even more.
Looked at what is left of a Mouat System today. It has a lot of issues and looking for some input from you all. Honestly, not sure we are even going to bid this job because of it.
On arrival the first thing that got my attention was the vent from the condensate pump is actually piped OUTSIDE! I asked the homeowner if they see steam coming out of that and they said it is so heavy at times its hard to use the entrance on that side of the home. Its been like that for years, and yes the boiler is rotted out.
One of the steam mains has an F/T at the end of it, the other does not. They both tie into dry returns and make their way to the condensate pump. The pressure-trols are cranked to the max as well... Just as you'd guess.
I want to eliminate the condensate pump completely. My question is, if I drip the dry returns down to the floor making them wet returns before getting to the boiler is that a viable option? There is a Hoffman #75 main vent at the end of both mains before they go there respective dry returns.
I have other info I can add, I just didn't want to add too much and muddy the waters even more.
Re: Flexible Gas Piping do's and dont's
Where's the regulator? There should always be 2# gas to the roof, regulated down at each unit
GroundUp
0
Re: Looking for 1 1/2 inch orifice plates
I'm working with a local shop to see if they can CNC them out of copper sheet. I've probably done a couple thousand radiators with orifices. I use them on just about all 2 pipe systems I work with to allow stage fired boilers or full mod input boilers resetting on outdoor temperature. They are certainly for 2 pipe only, though last year I did a one pipe system with them but I was able to repipe the supply to provide drips for each radiator supply.
Re: UP Michigan Community Gem Needs Help
@Jamie you mentioned in a discussion about14years ago a plenum return under the floor in a theater in Manistee, MI (Vogue). The theater in Calumet may have something similar. This would be in conjunction with huge banks of radiators located back stage? The photo here is horrible (need to zoom and brighten) but there appears to be at least 30 wall units on each side of the back stage and a long continuous loop in the middle of the backstage. I did not have time to measure everything out precisely when I was briefly there this spring but the backstage EDR alone would be roughly 425sqft in my estimation based on about 50 of those wall units at 7sqft each and approximately 150ft of 1 1/2" OD diameter straight pipe in the loop.
I have posted a few pictures below just to provide a better jist of what is there:
I have posted a few pictures below just to provide a better jist of what is there:
Re: 100 year old toilet...
Back to toilets..........I'm sure a lot of you old timers remember working on the flush elbows and offsets on those tanks and bowls. I would typically replace the spud and flush valve washers and they would hold fine, but I invariable had leaks at the 2" slip joint washers, even when using friction rings. It was always a crap shoot.
Re: 100 year old toilet...
I'd take the Olds... but then, I'd also take the world it belonged in and was a part of. The world we live in now is completely different. Granted, much safer. Much more economical. so dull. so timid. But -- it's gone.
