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Re: Cast iron radiator at high flow rate
@hot_rod , the place I've seen over-pumped rads is in converted gravity systems. These have larger pipes feeding the rads than newer systems do, since the original motive force acting on the water is so small. Over-pumping one of these can, and does, cause the water to short-circuit through the rads. Here is an extreme example (note that we eventually replaced the original boiler some years ago):
https://www.heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/adjusting-the-flow-rate-for-an-old-gravity-hot-water-system/
which led to further research that produced this:
https://www.heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/sizing-circulators-for-old-gravity-hot-water-heating-systems/
https://www.heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/adjusting-the-flow-rate-for-an-old-gravity-hot-water-system/
which led to further research that produced this:
https://www.heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/sizing-circulators-for-old-gravity-hot-water-heating-systems/
Re: Better Quality Low Level Carbon Monoxide Monitor/Detectors
Sal- You just explained the exact reason we don't sell to homeowners.
Re: line voltage thermostat
You can use the 14 gauge line voltage wire from the thermostat location to the boiler location. I find that when i need to do that it is easy to connect to the thermostat with a short piece (10" to 12") of 18 gauge wire connected with a small wire nut to tyhe 14 gauge wire. then secure it with electrical tape, then push it inside the wall so only the 18 gauge wires stick thru the wall.
On the boiler end you can connect the other end of the 14 gauge wire directly to the Hydrostat screw terminals of the wire is long enough. If it is not long enough, then add 18 gauge wire in the same way as the thermostat end. Just ber sure the connection is secure.
The Hydrostat has a built in transformer so all you need or do is connect the R from the thermostat to the T on the Hydrostat and the W from the thermostat to the TV of the Hydrostat. just like in the instruction manual.
The gauge of the wire does not change the connections process. (in other words 14 gauge wire does not automatically change the 24 volt electricity to 120 volt electricity.) I needed to say that just in case anybody thought that could happen...
On the boiler end you can connect the other end of the 14 gauge wire directly to the Hydrostat screw terminals of the wire is long enough. If it is not long enough, then add 18 gauge wire in the same way as the thermostat end. Just ber sure the connection is secure.
The Hydrostat has a built in transformer so all you need or do is connect the R from the thermostat to the T on the Hydrostat and the W from the thermostat to the TV of the Hydrostat. just like in the instruction manual.
The gauge of the wire does not change the connections process. (in other words 14 gauge wire does not automatically change the 24 volt electricity to 120 volt electricity.) I needed to say that just in case anybody thought that could happen...
Re: Cast iron radiator at high flow rate
I think we should send @ethicalpaul over there with his video camera, Bob. Between the two of you liking to test theories out and Paul's ability to tell the story on camera, you two can start a Norm Abrams, Bob Villa type show called "This Old Radiator" on the HeatingHelp channel. You guys will need a theme song.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pZXjb6aCy8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pZXjb6aCy8Cast iron radiator at high flow rate
I've been playing around with cast radiators at different flow rates.
Also checking output with low SWT. I ran this one today at 8 gpm, 1" ID hose.
About 90 SWT.
I will compare heat up time at 1 and 4 gpm, 1/2 and 3/4 supply for example, as a for comparison.
Connected supply and return on the bottom connections. Within 20 minutes it was pretty consistently warm. After an hour delta was down to .6°
Even at these high flow rates across the bottom, the upper part of the sections get as warm, as the lower part.
Also checking output with low SWT. I ran this one today at 8 gpm, 1" ID hose.
About 90 SWT.
I will compare heat up time at 1 and 4 gpm, 1/2 and 3/4 supply for example, as a for comparison.
Connected supply and return on the bottom connections. Within 20 minutes it was pretty consistently warm. After an hour delta was down to .6°
Even at these high flow rates across the bottom, the upper part of the sections get as warm, as the lower part.
hot_rod
4
Re: Random NYCHA maintenance man on YouTube documents a building right out of the 25 steps
NYCHA needs to bring Jake Myron back to edify the next generation in NYCHA. Mad Dog
Re: Which residential, variable speed, ECM pumps, controllable with 0-10 volts, exist in 2024?
- Grundfos ALPHA1 26-99
- Grundfos MAGNA3 (ALL)
- Armstrong Compass H20-20
- Armstrong Compass R (ALL)
- B&G Ecocirc+ 20-18
- B&G Ecocirc XL (ALL)
- Resideo AquaPUMP PCVF-ECM2020 (Armstrong Compass relabel)
- Wilo-Stratos MAXO (ALL)
dko
1
Re: Which residential, variable speed, ECM pumps, controllable with 0-10 volts, exist in 2024?
B&G Ecocirc+ 20-18
The + version
The + version
dko
1
Re: Weil McLain CG Boiler wont start after relay replacement
The relay you call a 90340 was copied from a Honeywell R8222D1014 many many years ago.
That relay can come in several configurations. The R8222D1014 for example is the one that has the greatest amount of capabilities. It has a 24 VAC coil that the thermostat can operate, then there are 6 other terminals setup as a DPDT relay.
the R8222U1006 is a SPDT relay with only 3 additional terminals
The R8222U1079 is a DPST relay that has only 4 additional terminals that work as two switches, each with one set of NO contacts. And no NC contacts. That relay also comes in the R4222 variety. It looks the same but the coil is line voltage 120 VAC or 230 VAC. So I would look closely at the plug-in terminals of each relay you received and compare it to the original relay
Notice the green arrows are pointing to terminal pins that are missing
I have a feeling that you have a relay that has a different set of contacts than the original one you removed from the boiler. Look at the pins that are on the old relay and the new relay. I also feel that there may be a holding circuit that was inadvertently made with some type of additional wiring by a previous technician. At some point something changed that initiated the holding circuit.
Is it possible that the problem started soon after you upgraded to a new thermostat or some other event?
You may have had an overheating issue that melted some insulation off of a thermostat wire inside the boiler jacket that is completing a holding circuit that is not supposed to be there. A close inspection of all the low voltage wires inside the boiler front door may reveal the problem.
That relay can come in several configurations. The R8222D1014 for example is the one that has the greatest amount of capabilities. It has a 24 VAC coil that the thermostat can operate, then there are 6 other terminals setup as a DPDT relay.
the R8222U1006 is a SPDT relay with only 3 additional terminals
The R8222U1079 is a DPST relay that has only 4 additional terminals that work as two switches, each with one set of NO contacts. And no NC contacts. That relay also comes in the R4222 variety. It looks the same but the coil is line voltage 120 VAC or 230 VAC. So I would look closely at the plug-in terminals of each relay you received and compare it to the original relay
Notice the green arrows are pointing to terminal pins that are missing
I have a feeling that you have a relay that has a different set of contacts than the original one you removed from the boiler. Look at the pins that are on the old relay and the new relay. I also feel that there may be a holding circuit that was inadvertently made with some type of additional wiring by a previous technician. At some point something changed that initiated the holding circuit.
Is it possible that the problem started soon after you upgraded to a new thermostat or some other event?
OR
You may have had an overheating issue that melted some insulation off of a thermostat wire inside the boiler jacket that is completing a holding circuit that is not supposed to be there. A close inspection of all the low voltage wires inside the boiler front door may reveal the problem.