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Re: Cast iron radiator at high flow rate
I think we should send @ethicalpaul over there with his video camera, Bob. Between the two of you liking to test theories out and Paul's ability to tell the story on camera, you two can start a Norm Abrams, Bob Villa type show called "This Old Radiator" on the HeatingHelp channel. You guys will need a theme song.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pZXjb6aCy8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pZXjb6aCy8
Cast iron radiator at high flow rate
I've been playing around with cast radiators at different flow rates.
Also checking output with low SWT. I ran this one today at 8 gpm, 1" ID hose.
About 90 SWT.
I will compare heat up time at 1 and 4 gpm, 1/2 and 3/4 supply for example, as a for comparison.
Connected supply and return on the bottom connections. Within 20 minutes it was pretty consistently warm. After an hour delta was down to .6°
Even at these high flow rates across the bottom, the upper part of the sections get as warm, as the lower part.
Also checking output with low SWT. I ran this one today at 8 gpm, 1" ID hose.
About 90 SWT.
I will compare heat up time at 1 and 4 gpm, 1/2 and 3/4 supply for example, as a for comparison.
Connected supply and return on the bottom connections. Within 20 minutes it was pretty consistently warm. After an hour delta was down to .6°
Even at these high flow rates across the bottom, the upper part of the sections get as warm, as the lower part.
hot_rod
4
Re: Random NYCHA maintenance man on YouTube documents a building right out of the 25 steps
NYCHA needs to bring Jake Myron back to edify the next generation in NYCHA. Mad Dog
Re: Which residential, variable speed, ECM pumps, controllable with 0-10 volts, exist in 2024?
- Grundfos ALPHA1 26-99
- Grundfos MAGNA3 (ALL)
- Armstrong Compass H20-20
- Armstrong Compass R (ALL)
- B&G Ecocirc+ 20-18
- B&G Ecocirc XL (ALL)
- Resideo AquaPUMP PCVF-ECM2020 (Armstrong Compass relabel)
- Wilo-Stratos MAXO (ALL)
dko
1
Re: Which residential, variable speed, ECM pumps, controllable with 0-10 volts, exist in 2024?
B&G Ecocirc+ 20-18
The + version
The + version
dko
1
Re: Weil McLain CG Boiler wont start after relay replacement
The relay you call a 90340 was copied from a Honeywell R8222D1014 many many years ago.
That relay can come in several configurations. The R8222D1014 for example is the one that has the greatest amount of capabilities. It has a 24 VAC coil that the thermostat can operate, then there are 6 other terminals setup as a DPDT relay.
the R8222U1006 is a SPDT relay with only 3 additional terminals
The R8222U1079 is a DPST relay that has only 4 additional terminals that work as two switches, each with one set of NO contacts. And no NC contacts. That relay also comes in the R4222 variety. It looks the same but the coil is line voltage 120 VAC or 230 VAC. So I would look closely at the plug-in terminals of each relay you received and compare it to the original relay
Notice the green arrows are pointing to terminal pins that are missing
I have a feeling that you have a relay that has a different set of contacts than the original one you removed from the boiler. Look at the pins that are on the old relay and the new relay. I also feel that there may be a holding circuit that was inadvertently made with some type of additional wiring by a previous technician. At some point something changed that initiated the holding circuit.
Is it possible that the problem started soon after you upgraded to a new thermostat or some other event?
You may have had an overheating issue that melted some insulation off of a thermostat wire inside the boiler jacket that is completing a holding circuit that is not supposed to be there. A close inspection of all the low voltage wires inside the boiler front door may reveal the problem.
That relay can come in several configurations. The R8222D1014 for example is the one that has the greatest amount of capabilities. It has a 24 VAC coil that the thermostat can operate, then there are 6 other terminals setup as a DPDT relay.
the R8222U1006 is a SPDT relay with only 3 additional terminals
The R8222U1079 is a DPST relay that has only 4 additional terminals that work as two switches, each with one set of NO contacts. And no NC contacts. That relay also comes in the R4222 variety. It looks the same but the coil is line voltage 120 VAC or 230 VAC. So I would look closely at the plug-in terminals of each relay you received and compare it to the original relay
Notice the green arrows are pointing to terminal pins that are missing
I have a feeling that you have a relay that has a different set of contacts than the original one you removed from the boiler. Look at the pins that are on the old relay and the new relay. I also feel that there may be a holding circuit that was inadvertently made with some type of additional wiring by a previous technician. At some point something changed that initiated the holding circuit.
Is it possible that the problem started soon after you upgraded to a new thermostat or some other event?
OR
You may have had an overheating issue that melted some insulation off of a thermostat wire inside the boiler jacket that is completing a holding circuit that is not supposed to be there. A close inspection of all the low voltage wires inside the boiler front door may reveal the problem.
Re: gas steam boiler heating problem
Let me just reply to all and I thank you all that my beautiful vintage boiler is working in tip-top shape(thank goodness)- On Scully's first visit he cleaned and drained the boiler which has not been done since 1986 as I stated much earlier. And upon doing what he did the NEW water level in the sight glass remained very low(below the manufacturers' decal for where the water line was supposed to be. With the boiler running to give heat to the home- the water level dropped below the cut-off switch and out of sight in the sight glass and the boiler turned off. This went on for about one week. Thked and Scully came back to talk about the options we had for the future fix and this was the other brother who I was told was an expert in steam heating systems. So when he came over we talked and he asked me what is different in the system that made it work so erratically. So I mentioned my basement was just redone and that set his mind to working overtime. he checked the pitch of the RETURN pipe. Because as he knew the water was NOT returning to the boiler quickly enough nor fully as it should up to the original water level. So he put a level on the return pipe in the area under the cubby hole(under the stairs)- which we use as storage and he noticed that there was an added piece of plywood that was put up to close off that under the stairs cubby hole from the other room so as not to see inside the storage area. believe it or not- the top of that piece of plywood was right underneath that section of the return pipe. he immediately took that piece of plywood down(which is not needed anyway- and we automatically heard the sound of returning water. He asked me to go check the sight glass and amazingly it was refilled to the original proper level. That was last Saturday and ever since my pipes have NOT banged. The cut-off switch does NOT go off(and the light never goes red) and the water returns to the boiler quicker than it ever has. I can hear it as the boiler is on. I then checked my daughter's radiator which is upstairs on the OTHER side of the house which Has NOT gotten hot for years. We all thought that it might be a faulty vent and they were going to check that. But I must say that since he corrected the pitch on that return pipe- even my daughter's radiator is steaming hot. WOW. So to answer that last gentleman's reply- yes he found the flaw in the pitch of the return pipe and corrected it and all is working amazingly well. I cannot thank Dan Scully enough for locating the problem because as he stated even with a new boiler we might have encountered the same problem. A true gentleman and a truly knowledgeable plumber who saved the homeowner an unwarranted job. I truly appreciate his help and his company Scully Plumbing for being there for us. he will come back to tweak a few things later in the season along with adding Wi-FI accessibility to my water heater so that if something happens with that I will be able to remotely shut it off. After seeing what he did for me- I trust any suggestion he has for me now. So there you have it men- I am good to go and Scullys has helped us immensely.
P.S.-- he will also be coming back to probably change all the air vents as well and balance the system at a later daye But he said that all can wait that I am in the drivers seat now and that the emergency is over and done with.
P.S.-- he will also be coming back to probably change all the air vents as well and balance the system at a later daye But he said that all can wait that I am in the drivers seat now and that the emergency is over and done with.
montek
10
Re: Stop Leak for my Burnham
When you install the new boiler you can flush out all the stop leak. it will not foul or damage pipes
Re: Fish House in Berkeley
The non- barrier polybutylene has held up very well - no issues. Radiant heating is only in the lower floor which is about 500 square feet and the heat source is a domestic water heater; stainless steel pump. A marriage made in heaven. Oxygen intrusion? No problem.
The neighborhood has mostly small, working class homes that go at a premium because of their proximity to the Fish House. It’s considered good luck.
A previous tenant was a group of start-up entrepreneurs that claimed that all their most brilliant ideas came to them while living here.
Have you ever been to Sedona, Arizona and experienced standing in a vortex? Being in the Fish House reminded me of that feeling. Safe, secure, inspired ……
