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Re: Help: What's an affordable way to get a smaller, one pipe steam radiator?
Here are some places in NYC that sell used radiators:
Olde Good Things:
Mike's Pipe Yard (2816 Boston Rd, Bronx, NY 10469 Phone: 718-655-0952)
More listings here across the US:
Re: Help: What's an affordable way to get a smaller, one pipe steam radiator?
That rad is rated 45 square feet EDR. You need something with similar rating. Governale's 4-tube, 25", 22-section rad would work since it won't stick out so far from the wall.
Re: Mad Dog was amazing
Joe...thank you for putting your faith in me after being jerked around by others. I'm so happy I got the Lion back in the cage. Mad Dog
Re: Space Aliens?? Robots? Nope
May take some training for the dogs to learn how to use it. 😃
jesmed1
Re: Help Bleeding Boiler
Is there a water fill valve into the system somewhere? A pic more to the right might help see all the boiler plumbing.
Basically it takes a ball valve to stop flow from going around the loop, a drain valve next to it.
Here is an example with a and bucket.
The closed valve at the boiler forces the water one direction, through the system, back to the purge valve.
Purging into a bucket of water shows when all the small bubbles stop coming out.
hot_rod
Re: Snow Melt - Asphalt - EPS Foam
I've found over the years in multiple homes in mountain climates that the asphalt hold up better than concrete. All concrete cracks, the control joints limit the traveling of cracks. Only a rebar grid keeps concrete from shifting at deep cracks. 6X6 mesh is not a substitute for rebar held into the pour.
It is really the sub grade below the concrete or asphalt that is the key. It needs to be compacted base material if you want a solid sub-grade.
Drainage is also important. Water in or under the drive going through freeze thaw cycles will cause problems, think pot holes :)
The PPI details various methods. The paving contractor needs to be onboard with the proper precautions. That is true with concrete or asphalt.
hot_rod
Re: Super hot mini boiler no power
" So would that be a bad relay? "
If it was a relay it would be in the LWCO unit.
Well those readings seem odd in the respect that 12 VAC is about 1/10 of what it should be, with that I would expect the 24 VAC to also be 1/10 of what it should be, or 2.4 VAC and not 1.2 VAC.
You did verify the meter reads 120 VAC correctly with a known good point like a receptacle that is known to work correctly ? Nothing worse than your test equipment deceiving you.
Anyway assuming the 12 VAC is an accurate measurement across L1 and L2 the defect would be between that connection point and the circuit breaker panel box. Since the non-contact tester seemed to be happy with the Hot wire potential being present I would expect the defect is with the Neutral wire. Also the non-contact tester seemed to alert on L2 which should be the Neutral wire, although the alert can be ambiguous unless close attention to detail is observed and also the installer may have reversed the wiring to L1 and L2.
Typically in this case L1 is the Hot wire and L2 is the Neutral wire. In North America the Neutral is bonded to Ground at the main electrical service equipment. Another test (if the home's electrical system is not too old, no grounding) to help verify the low voltage situation and better understand where the defect is, is to a use a good Ground to make the measurements as illustrated below. It's like a second opinion.
Using a good Ground as a reference for the meter (possibly the boiler's jacket or a cold water pipe) L1 should have 120 VAC (the Hot wire) an L2 near 0 (zero) (the Neutral wire).
I suspect, since your non-contact tester was alerting on L2 (your picture) the Neutral wire has a loose connection somewhere. In which case I would suspect with the meter using a Ground as a reference L1 will have 120 VAC to Ground and L2 will have about 108 VAC (120 minus 12) to Ground, when it should be zero AC Volts. So there is a 108 VAC drop across a loose connection with the Neutral wire between the L2 and circuit breaker panel box's Neutral Buss Bar.
If the AC power passes through the LWCO I would check in there and also any wire nuts associated to the AC power wiring inside the boiler's cabinet.
With the boiler's power off (the Boiler's circuit breaker OFF) inspect and verify the integrity of the AC power wiring, there may just be a loose connection that needs securing.
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