Best Of
Re: B & G Dou - Flo Valve??? Main loop Supply/ Return and Secondary loop Supply / Return
The manufacturer didn't know what it is… but Heating Help did! The site is such a wonderful resource!
bburd
Re: B & G Dou - Flo Valve??? Main loop Supply/ Return and Secondary loop Supply / Return
It's a mixer for primary secondary piping. See Idronics 7 for more details. Paging @hot_rod as Caleffi probably has a replacement.
Re: Safgard 1150 LWCO question
We have seen the probes fail. Much more often we find the probes are dirty, often covered with rust or a silt like substance. I would start with draining the boiler and removing the probe, if dirty clean it and re-install.
Re: Upgrading my Thermostat to wifi without C wire / Using switch relay with internal transformer
Well when the Red test button is pressed it mimics a contact closure between the R(T) & W(T) (a thermostat call for heat). When you press the Red button and hold it briefly the Green 'Call for Heat' LED should light up and you should hear the relay(s) click and the boiler should start.
If you jumper R(T) & W(T) the Green 'Call for Heat' LED should light up you should here the relay(s) click and the boiler should start. If not try just jumpering the wires connected to X1 & X2, the boiler should start.
Even if the boiler was disconnected a call from the thermostat should activate the Green 'Call for Heat' LED and energize the relays.
Again, I suspect the multi wire cables are reversed. Or something was damaged in the transition.
109A_5
Re: Bad Cold Weather "Flue" Season! : (
Here is how the air will move with a fan placed in the clean-out opening at the floor
Red areas indicate a higher pressure zone
Blue area indicates a low pressure zone
White areas indicate places that will let the pressure can equalize; like windows, doors, chimneys and fresh air intakes.
If you look at the boiler room, the blower fan will cause the boiler room to have a lower pressure than the rest of the building. That blower will cause the outside pressure to be a greater difference making the chimney down draft even greater. The blower fan can push air up the chimney to the vent connector location, the outside air pressure can downdraft to the vent connector location and there will be no exhaust gas going up the chimney, so all the exhaust gas will accumulate in the building.
The rule is that high pressure moves to low pressure,
Re: Drip to nowhere.
And the winner is....
It's a dead end!
No idea what it could have been hooked to but at least this mystery is solved.
Re: What boiler service tools do you carry with you?
open eyes and a open mind for starters
6 n 1 screw drive
1/4 deep socket set
fluke multi meter
assorted hand tools
Flash light
finally a pair of eye glasses
a working knowledge of the sequence of operations for the equipment you are servicing and knowing the safety devices which may be at fault
A good grip on the workings of controls ,opposite potentials,time delays ,flow switches ,magnetic starters voltage and over current, phase monitoring controls and how not to let the smoke out of a new control .
Being truthful and not broad brushing existing issues which may not be ideal but are not the root cause of the existing issue .
Only work on equipment which you are qualified and comfortable working on and being smart enough to known when your in over your head.
Knowing how a system should properly operate and when it is time for regular maintenance or that said maintenance has been deferred which is the underlying issue
And also have a possibly older smarter tech which when having a rough time you can call on for some intelligence discussion with about your issue .
Never be afraid to admit that your at a lose .
Honestest is always the best policy
peace and good luck clammy
clammy
Re: Heating recommendation for Jackson, WY
I agree with hydronic radiant heat as your primary heat source.
I also agree with insulating under the slab and the inner edge of the footings with at least two inch thick foam. Try to keep the radiant tubing above the center of the slab, not the bottom. Your heat loss numbers look great for a 2500 square two story structure with a design temperature of -35F. I am guessing you are using at least 2x6 walls filled with insulation and high end windows. You may need an additional source of heat if there are a lot of windows. You could add radiant ceilings as well or add a few panel radiators as suggested above.
What will be your fuel source? How reliable is your electric power in your area? With those potential bitter cold temps you might want to consider a back up generator and/or a back up heat source.
On another note, your building a house in my favorite area of the United States. Say hello to Hoback (famous moose) and the rest of all that wildlife in your area.
Re: Heating recommendation for Jackson, WY
There are, or were some excellent radiant contractors and wholesalers in the Jackson area. I've been doing trainings up there for 17 years now.
I would have a local wholesaler, or rep do a design for you. Something like LoopCAD to get a tubing layout, pump sizing, boiler piping, etc.
I would tube every residential job 6" on center now. A little more tubing $$, but it allows you to heat with the lowest possible temperature, give you the fastest ramp up, most consistent floor surface temperature.
Also allows for a heat pump installation in the future.
I can call around on Monday see how many of those hydronic guys are still in the area, or who is the local go to experts, PM me if that could help you.
My next ground up build would be a mix of radiant floors and panel radiators. Really no need for radiant floors in bedrooms, most of it is covered any ways. I'd use panel rads with TRVs in bedrooms. Quick easy control and setback options. A super simple non electric temperature control.
With some attention to design you could run radiant floors and panel rads on a single, low temperature system.
I'd guess a 50- 80-,000 btu/ hr boiler would cover your entire project.
hot_rod