Best Of
Re: So fresh water carrying O2 causes corrosion. How about a HOT WATER TANK feeder into the boiler?
How is HW "Boiled in a HW tank?
pecmsg
Re: Riello 40 red light problem
knowing at which point in the process it fails would help you narrow down which part is failing
Re: No water to third floor
We are talking about static pressure, here, not dynamic pressure. 20 PSI is more than adequate to raise water 30', as stated. The pressure EX tank has nothing to do with raising water, only acceptance of heated water in a closed sys. Verify pressure with an independent gauge that you can screw on the boiler drain valve hose connection, as stated.
A Fil-trol EX tank can have a stuck valve or plugged inlet screen or be water logged all which can prevent sys fill, just saying.
If you have verified 20+PSI and functioning air vents on the 3rd floor and no water release, look for closed shut off valves somewhere on the system. That would be my tact.
Re: Getting rid of the old boiler sections
Or a sledgehammer. Or hire movers to deal with it.
Re: No water to third floor
Measure from the top of the highest radiator on the 3rd floor to the pressure gauge on the boiler. The measurement does not have to be exact but close. Next, divide that measurement by 2.3 to get the pressure setting for the boiler pressure gauge. Example; 23 feet /2.3= 10psi or 46 feet/2.3= 20 feet. So, whatever the distance you measure divided by 2.3 = the minimum pressure required to push the water up to the top of the highest radiator. Then add 1-2 lbs for safety to get the pressure where it needs to be. The next thing I would do is have the whole system serviced by a reputable service company. Check on this site for someone near you to fix all your problems.
Re: residential boiler outdoor temperature sensor how to test
If you do need to replace that control, consider an electronic setpoint control. It's digital reads temperature and has a lot more control settings.
Honeywell, Penn, Ranco, Johnson Controls are other brands. Should be less $$ compared to the old technology cap tube controls.
hot_rod
Re: Weil mclain ultra 105
on my boiler standby is shown when the boiler is at temperature or a no heat call
Depending on piping and control logic, a secondary or primary pump may still be running on a heat call but the boiler does not not need to fire if it is at temperature
hot_rod
Re: Turn down the heat?
as long as the return water stays above 140* it’s fine.
I don’t recommend keeping a home below 55°.
do you have any type of alarm system for when something goes wrong?
pecmsg
Re: Turn down the heat?
If you were to keep the temperture at a comfortable 90° and reduced the temperature to 70° when unoccupied, would you worry about flue gas condensation? Reducing the unoccupied temperature by 20° when unoccupied to reduce fuel usage is a common practice. There is no danger to you boiler if the entire system is operated at a lower temperature. 50° just means that the boiler will cycle at a lower ambient temperature but it will still make high limit temperature (if needed) in about the same time frame as it would if you set the thermostat to 70°.
If you have Cast Iron radiators then use the circulator delay feature all the time for boiler protection. If you have copper with fin baseboard, then that is probably unnecessary. Your control sounds like an upgrade from the old analogue limit devices of the 20th century. does that control have a thermal purge feature? If so, then I would use that feature to reduce fuel usage.
Re: Riello 40 red light problem
I don't think the cad cell flame detector is the culprit. From what you described the problem is either the capacitor or the burner motor itself. If you don't have a multimeter to test the capacitor you could just buy a new one and see if it solves your problem. The capacitor is inexpensive and easy to to replace.
I wouldn't think about replacing the boiler, this burner problem should be a simple repair once you get it figured out.

