Best Of
Re: Turn down the heat?
as long as the return water stays above 140* it’s fine.
I don’t recommend keeping a home below 55°.
do you have any type of alarm system for when something goes wrong?
pecmsg
Re: Turn down the heat?
If you were to keep the temperture at a comfortable 90° and reduced the temperature to 70° when unoccupied, would you worry about flue gas condensation? Reducing the unoccupied temperature by 20° when unoccupied to reduce fuel usage is a common practice. There is no danger to you boiler if the entire system is operated at a lower temperature. 50° just means that the boiler will cycle at a lower ambient temperature but it will still make high limit temperature (if needed) in about the same time frame as it would if you set the thermostat to 70°.
If you have Cast Iron radiators then use the circulator delay feature all the time for boiler protection. If you have copper with fin baseboard, then that is probably unnecessary. Your control sounds like an upgrade from the old analogue limit devices of the 20th century. does that control have a thermal purge feature? If so, then I would use that feature to reduce fuel usage.
Re: Riello 40 red light problem
I don't think the cad cell flame detector is the culprit. From what you described the problem is either the capacitor or the burner motor itself. If you don't have a multimeter to test the capacitor you could just buy a new one and see if it solves your problem. The capacitor is inexpensive and easy to to replace.
I wouldn't think about replacing the boiler, this burner problem should be a simple repair once you get it figured out.
Re: Corroded connectors on new boiler.
Everything there is minerals from your water leaking and evaporating.
IMO the dissimilar metals aren't an issue.
ChrisJ
Re: Corroded connectors on new boiler.
Those are stainless steel nipples that are welded to the inner tank. Use more teflon tape or teflon rope.
I just installed a Viessmann indirect that had the same stainless nipples and the cold nipple at the bottom of the tank leaked. I redid the threads multiple times with different applications of tape and dope; none of those worked. What finally stopped the leak was Loctite teflon cord wound into the threads.
Re: WarmRite System - No flow
An "open" combined system is one where both the radiant and DHW is one and the same. Not highly recommended. I don't recall WarmRite ever promoting those systems.
If there is a fill valve, pressure reducing valve, connected it is not a combined system.
Although the stainless circulator could point to a combined heat/ dhw system.
IF it is a combined system, it should purge in minutes as you have house water pressure doing the fill/ purge.
It's possible to have a standard DHW tank connected to the radiant, it would still be a closed loop dedicated HW tank system.
Or a heat exchanger could be on your DHW tank to separate heating from potable?
It would be helpful to see more of your system. Could be just one valve in the wrong position?
hot_rod
Re: Getting rid of the old boiler sections
Use a grinder w a diablo metal blade cut a bunch of channel in the proper place and a good wide chiesel and it shold pop the rest of the way . In my younger days i ve dragged them out myself but when i got older started to smash them and got used to having some sledge handles extra but in the past couple of years of still dragging out it was the grinder much quicker and cheaper then buying and replacing multi handles . Now a days when in that situation unless a walk in walk out i make a call and a bunch of super nice gentlemen come and draggem out and dispose of them for less time and money then i ever could do it plus saves the back and enables you to concentrate on the real work at hand . some would rather kill them self and there workers then pay for the service at this point in my life again if its a walk in walk out standard residential boiler ok but on larger one i drop the dime and get the nicest gorillas to do the heavy work it a whole lot smarter that way and nobody gets hurt .
peace and good luck clammy
clammy
Re: No water to third floor
though they could also have expansion tank problems, that wouldn't cause the pressure to be too low to get p to the 3rd floor. it has to be a prv issue or gauge issue if they're filling it manually. bourdon tube gages are really easily physically damaged and made to be very inaccurate
mattmia2
Re: Weil mclain ultra 105
Agree, need pics. You said only 2 zones being used for the second floor. The first floor and basement have mini splits, no radiators or baseboard. So how do 4 thermostats go back to the boiler? There must be at least 2 external circulators. One boiler circulator right on top of the boiler, and a system circulator for the second floor loop(s). Pics please.
In the diagram @109A_5 posted, there should be wires at terminals 1 and 2 on the P15 block. Check the wires and block are secure. Then work your way back with the thermostat wire and tighten any connection or splice all the way back to the thermostat.
If I were to guess, because we've got nothing to work with, I'd say there's 2 zones for the second floor with a zone control panel. The relay that closes XX to signal a demand to the boiler hangs up, so the boiler remains in Standby. Turning the power off and on is like a defibrillator.
HVACNUT
Re: Getting rid of the old boiler sections
Hand truck. 2 guys up top, 2 guys on the bottom.
HVACNUT