Best Of
Re: Hydronic Baseboard Gap
Rooms with a lot of glass tend to feel "cold" even though the ambient is warm. Your body heat is being pulled to the cold glass. AKA the "cold 70 effect"
Use an accurate thermometer to adjust the wall thermostat reading. There is a differential in the thermostat 1.5- 2° that may be adjustable also. Pull out the manual on your thermostst.
The wall thermostat is on an inside wall?
This smiling gentleman explains cold 70 the concept well.
hot_rod
Re: Tekmar 360 Control- Assistance Needed
What I find that helps with tekmar sometimes is to look at their application guide
GGross
Re: Explain This Relay!
My guess is similar to @mattmia2
I would guess they went to 1 stat for whatever reason so the stat would open both valves and pull in the relay coil. The relay contacts would act as the end switch and fire the boiler. Not exactly right but I guess it works.
The boiler and circ shouldn't run until the valves open but with no valve end switches(s) it can't be done
Re: Mono flow system upgrade
I assume you're replacing what you have for radiation and not altering the basement piping except to connect the new baseboards. If that's the case, you should be fine. Put bleeders on the return side. You may not get as much heat out of standard baseboard as the convectors put out as the elements are smaller unless you extend the baseboard length.
Re: Pressuretrols and Gauges
you can disconnect one of the t-stat wires at the boiler and see if it still happens. if the anticipator setting in the t-stat is way off it could turn iff the boiler before you really get any heat from the house to the t-stat.
mattmia2
Re: Pressuretrols and Gauges
Test equipment like a multi-meter is the most common way to perform testing, but that is not the only way. If you can carefully disconnect one wire at the thermostat and see if the boiler starts, you may have to wait a while. While disconnecting the one wire look for dilapidated insulation causing the thermostat wires to touch and bypass the thermostat, it does not take much.
109A_5
Re: In imminent danger of house freezing (Minnesota) - solutions?
If you are going to winterize, and I believe you should as mentioned above, have the meter removed by your water company and have the entire house's piping system pumped with non-toxic/recreational vehicle (RV) anti-freeze. All low points must be evacuated of water, including any appliances, ice maker, refrigerator etc.
And then pour antifreeze in all toilet tanks, toilet bowls, and any "P" traps that would hold water. This will save the house till warm weather returns and a replacement can be installed.
Intplm.
Re: Mystery 'U's\dips where Steam Mains meet Dry Returns, (and Water Hammer)
If those are Trane convectors, they probably have orifices cast into them. Otherwise, the traps may be in the basement.
Re: steam radiators are hissing loudly and spraying hot water/steam
On your comment 1. There is nothing in a radiator, It is a hollow chunk of cast iron — nothing more, nothing less.
If vents are hissing, there are really only two possibilities: they are defective or the pressure is too high. And, I might add, if the pressure is too high the vents will be defective very quickly.
Which goes to your comments 2 and 3. You are presuming that sincee the system works well the problem isn't with the pressuretrol or the pigtail. I beg to differ. Steam is, in some ways, oddly forgiving — and excess pressure is one of those ways. While it creates all manor of problems, what it does not usually do is keep the system from heating. Add to this that "the gauge does move" — if it is the normal 0 to 30 psig gauge, that almost certainly means the pressure is too high.
