Best Of
Re: Two pipe vapor system with vapor stat: to cycle or not to cycle?
2:19 from start of boil to shutdown? No. Something is seriously wrong with the venting. Or, possibly, the piping to the main vent.
You say this is a vapour steam system. How, exactly, are the mains and dry returns vented? I've looked at the previous thread, but it isn't clear to me what was done about main and dry return venting.
The main vent on the dry returns, whether there are crossover traps from the mains to the dry returns or not, should NEVER close — never see steam at all. Once the boiler fires, you can feel the progress of steam along the mains — 20 feet per minute is not a bad sort of ball park figure — and that should be steady progress. If there are vents on the mains, they should close when steam hits them — likewise crossover traps.
I can't help but think that somewhere in there there is a significant restriction — but what it is I couldn't say without really looking at the system.
There is another possibility, however, which has occurred to me. Where are the vapourstat and pressure gauge connected? If they are connected directly to the steam chest — which is the usual connection, through a nipple or through the sight glass — is the vapourstat responding to real system pressure, or is it responding to pressure oscillations in the steam chest? If the pressure gauge is on the same pigtail, is it bouncing around as steam is rising, or is it rising steadily? Note that this is not related to surging water level! If the pressure gauge is bouncing around, it is likely responding to steam pressure variations as bubbles form and burst, not to the steady pressure found in the header — and the mains. This could be the cause of the quick shutdown, as vapourstats are quite sensitive to pressure spikes of this sort. There are ways to cure this problem. The best is to connect the vapourstat and low pressure gauge to the header, not to the boiler. Another is to use a snubber on the pigtail, but that is problematic as snubbers have a way of clogging.
Whatever, it ain't right.
Re: Burner Issue CLUELESS at this point
Someone replaced your circulator because the boiler wouldn't fire?
Re: Can I rough plumb a double vanity like this?
And I don't see any point in the clean outs, just use a trap that comes apart and go in there if you need to.
Re: Can I rough plumb a double vanity like this?
One of my favorite subjects & discussions is dwv system piping.
I propose a single 1.5" waste arm could serve both lavs as long as they're within 6' of the stack vent.
The arm would connect to the stack with a ty; a vertical wye with a 45 here could cause the vent to be flooded.
The first lav would need a horizontal wye & 45.
This works as a combination waste & vent, not a wet vent because the 1.5" arm is a pipe size bigger than the lavs 1.25" drain....…

Re: Condensing boiler getting too hot and short cycling
A better question is where is the outdoor reset and why is this boiler running at 180°F in the first place?

Re: Condensing boiler getting too hot and short cycling
Lower water temp = lower firing rate. So yes, it would help. Nobody suggested that it would do the job on its own, it's merely an addition to your firing rate limit.

Re: Old Boiler Completely Blocked with Soot and Blew out Pilot
Take a deep breath.
If the boiler sections were never cleaned in 60 years how could it not have soot? Of course it will after 60 years any boiler will have soot.
If it is clean now and the flame look good and blue you are probably fine
The tech you had is an idiot and should have come back and retested it with his analyzer.
He is just trying to sell you a new boiler
At over 60 years old you should think about replacement (budget for it) have it combustion tested by someone that knows what they are doing and if ok keep running it
Boiler do not ware out and shouldn't need replacement if not leaking
Re: Normal boiler therm usage?
To refine your numbers a bit, using the following data for December in Boston:
362 therms used
951 HDD
1900 sq ft
That gives a boiler total input of 50 BTU/hr/sq ft at a design temp of 5 degrees, which is pretty close to my initial estimate of near 60 BTU/hr/sq ft by comparing your usage to ours in the same area.
However, this doesn't account for combustion inefficiency and the resulting lower BTU output of the boiler. If your boiler is, say, 80% efficient, then your actual heat loss through the envelope is more like 0.8 x 50 = 40 BTU/hr/sq ft. That's still 2x as bad is my old house, but it's not 3x as bad.
Then if you're also using gas in a separate water heater, maybe 15% of your gas bill is for DHW. So now your house is losing (100-15)*.8 = 68% of total therms as actual heat loss through the building envelope, or 34 BTU/hr/sq ft.
So it's not as bad as I first estimated, but you still have plenty of room for improvement.

Re: Need more consistent domestic hot water
Hi, Tank type heaters that are glass-lined want to have the anode changed every two to five years and the relief valve should be checked yearly. Flushing out sediment is nice, but usually not too important.
Yours, Larry
Re: Boiler over flow is dry
The glycol evaporates very slowly and has a dye in it so if it is leaking someplace you can see, you will see the dye. If the heat exchanger in the boiler has a slow leak it could be going down the drain with the condensate.
Could be leaking in the slab somewhere too.
