Best Of
Re: Cleaned out my sooted up boiler.
It really doesn't matter. It looks like you found a strong possible cause of a fresh air shortage for that boiler. You can run a fresh air vent via flex pipe into that room but you should have an HVAC tech calculate it I would think. The vent is doubly good because in addition to providing necessary combustion air, it keeps the boiler from making a negative pressure in your living space that pulls cold air into where you spend your time.
Regarding the rule about how many cubic feet of space you need to supply a boiler as mentioned by Ed above, I have seen that number and it never made sense to me. How much does it matter how big a room is if there's no way for fresh air to enter it? I guess the old guys assumed that a big enough room would be leaky enough to supply the fresh combustion air.
Re: Cleaned out my sooted up boiler.
Interesing about the confined space.
We bought the house 2023 - the house had just been flipped and basement finished, pretty sure previously unfinished. Boiler now in a 8x12’ room with solid door, no window. You think in two years that much spot could build up from lack of combustion air?
Re: Insufficient Domestic Hot Water off Indirect Coil
I would definitely make sure the aquastat settings are as @HVACNUT described. That's the first step. Next step would involve descaling the coil and adding a real thermostatic mixing valve. I prefer the mixing valve from Caleffi that has a thermometer built in to it.
If it was my boiler I would abandon the tankless coil and install an indirect water heater. My customers that have indirect water heaters never complain about running out of hot water or anything else. I can't say the same thing for my customers who have tankless water heaters, combi boilers and heat pump water heaters.
Re: Taco Vortech air separator
Very nice of the Taco guy to support his company's product. Information is invaluable. It maintains our faith in products.
psb75
Re: Advice on a solution to leaking radiator; painting a previously painted cast iron radiator
All good thoughts above — but, being me, I'll add a bit.
Paint. I use a top quality acrylic paint, such as Benjamin Moore's Aura, and I've had exceellent results. Clean them thoroughly, use a hand wire brush to get as much rust off as you can, and paint happily. Any colour you want. And almost no smell…
On taking a radiator apart. I do a good bit of car work, so I have no hand a pair of ball joint spreaders. NAPA, I think. They slip between sections, one at the top, one at the bottom, and use a screw to gradually spread. Quarter turn at a time, top and bottom in turns, and the radiator WILL come apart. Without damage (bashing on it may crack it). Then to put it back together, a smear of sealant on the nipples (very thing) or, if the nipples are shot, a ring of red RTV where the sections mate. Push it together by hand. Then use a pair of pipe clamps, again one at the top and one at the bottom. Again, quarter turn at a time, top and bottom by turns. Once it's all together, put in the tension rods, but just a bit over hand tight on the nuts. No more than that.
Re: New Steam Boiler Installed, Water Hammer, Prematurely Turns Off, Frustrated
One other item on the piping — which looks minor but may not be. The steam takeoff to the mains exits from the side, not the top, of the header. Nope. That is almost guaranteed to get water up into the steam mains which will cause water hammer — even if all else is good.
The temperature difference with the thermostat is a bit odd. If you app is still showing a call for heat, you need to find out what is causing the boiler to shut off. Something is…
Re: Advice on a solution to leaking radiator; painting a previously painted cast iron radiator
One thing to consider is that all your other radiators may also be oversized. If that is the case, you may want to rethink installing the correct size for that room. It may not give you the balance you think you are going to get by installing the correct size. That smaller radiator may need to operate for a longer cycle in order to get that room comfortable but all the oversized radiators will satisfy their respective rooms long before the proper size radiator gets even close to heating the room that it occupies If it was grossly oversized and caused that room to overheat compared to the rest of the home, then a smaller radiator might be in order, but be careful as not to get a radiator that is too small.
As for acquiring the replacement radiator, you may find that there are better deals available than shortening the one you have. Wagner Salvage Has an eBay store and I have heard good things about them. I don't know how close you are to them but they can ship one radiator. Look at scrap and salvage yards near you for something that will fit your needs. Just make sure you can get full credit if the radiator is a leaker, otherwise don't buy it.
Re: Lochinvar WB80 not lighting, many new parts already. SOLVED
I'm guessing this is an NKB-80 model Noble? Or the Canadian equivalent which is an Epic? I can't think of another 80k model they made. When these "techs" cleaned the unit, did they completely disassemble the top half and scrub the heat exchanger, clean out the venturi, replace the burner, etc or simply flush it out and tell you they cleaned it? Did they use a combustion analyzer to adjust the gas valve to proper spec? 99% of the time, flame fail: ignition/running are a combustion problem and based on your feedback of it locking out toward the top end, I would still stand by that assumption. Often the mixture runs lean (low CO2 readings) and locks out on flame fail: running, when the high fire is out of adjustment. If they replaced the burner and gas valve without an analyzer, I'd bet my house that's the problem here. Are they simply firing the parts cannon at it or are they actually working through and documenting the issues with tech support? Tech support can't/won't do anything unless the technician is standing there with a combustion analyzer and since you never mentioned a combustion analyzer, I'm wondering if they may have been just guessing and hoping… Can you clarify this, please? If they had an analyzer, they should have left a printout or two with the unit (looks like a paper receipt). If you can find those, please share photos or at least the CO2 & O2 readings. Also, there is a 3A fuse plugged into two female spade connectors located behind the transformer (to the right of the display, there are 4 spot welds that hold the transformer behind that gray cross bar) which will sometimes cause the GV relay fail message if the fuse is bad or loose.
GroundUp
Re: Small shop/storage building
When folks throw out those design numbers that is for the most severe days. Good chance 90% of the heating season you are above those design temperatures. I know our location in Milwaukee has been way above design most of this winter.
If you hit design or below, the room drops a few degrees, not a huge issue for shops that are used occasionally. Stay home those days:)
I worked with two different Mennonite construction companies in Missouri, installing radiant, that did only pole barns. There were many levels of insulation options they offered depending on the buildings use.
hot_rod
Re: taco vs azel
first, I've heard of Azel. Taco controls are robust and have been recognized as a great product in the industry for many years. I worked as a tech support engineer for many years and have worked with many customers to facilitate installation. I can't tell you which one is better, because I'm not familiar with Azel, However,
I will say on record buying a product that is more common in the industry, and synonymous with quality is always the right choice. Go Taco!!
If you have any technical questions related to Taco zone controls, Taco tech support at 401-942-8000 is there to help. hopefully this was helpful
