Best Of
Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
NOTHING made now will last 10 years never mind 75. Even if it is the same "identical " pump it is likely made in China or some of the parts are.
There is probably twice the copper in that old motor as a new motor. Take care of it. The volute and housing are probably fine. The motor can be rebuilt at a motor shop and new bearing assemblies are available, I think unless they changed th thing so a new one will not fit.
But you will need a truck to haul the money from your bank to Bell & Gosset. They give nothing away.
Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
That's not a 100. Note the 4 bolt flanges, and flange to flange height difference.
HVACNUT
Re: First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
Looks like all you need is a flat-bladed screwdriver. And from that drop down screw, you have a Viessmann boiler.
Why do you want to flush your boiler? It should not be flushed unless there's air or a clog you want removed.
Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
Several drops of oil in the pump oil port, a couple of drops in each of the motor oil ports each year and that pump will run indefinitely.
Note @mattmia2 's comment about the mounts.
It's a B&G 100. Still available today.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-102214-1-6-HP-2-NFI-Circulator-Pump
Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
Not a 100- this is that pump's predecessor. My 1940 Bell & Gossett Handbook says it's the model H2, since the pipe connections are 2-inch.
Given the size of that boiler, I'm thinking that circ might be oversized for that system. This can cause the water to short-circuit through the radiators, reducing efficiency. Here's an extreme case I found years ago:
Do you know how many square feet of radiation is on your system?
Also, an old round boiler like that one is inherently inefficient. A combustion test would probably reveal an extremely high stack temperature.
Re: Prevent mold in mini-split heads
proper sizing. Because they can ramp down doesn’t mean bigger is better.
pecmsg
Re: short cycling on combi boiler.
I don't see how a tank of any kind will increase the flow thru the tankless water heater. If you have a low flow shower that is put thru a tank, the flow out of the shower will not increase, that won't stop the short cycling. If you add a circulator pump to maintain a temperature in the tank then you may stop the short cycling but then you are storing hot water outside of the tankless water heater. Why would you want to do that?
The proper fix is to clean up all the parts in the system that have to do with the flow rate. The flow meter, the orifice plates in the shower head, and any other restriction there may be. It worked before when these items were new. Make them like new again and see if that does not solve your problem. Cleaning something is often less expensive than replacing or adding stuff to a system that has operated properly for years. What changes in a year or two from something new? Corrosion and build up of debris on parts. That is why we do maintenance. To keep stuff looking like new and operating like new.
Just my two cents. (that today, cost more than a nickel to produce)
Re: header and main piping configuration
the piping up in the ceiling is the header from 3 boilers ago, it should have been removed when the coal boiler was replaced.
it has places for condensate to collect which will stop or slow the steam at that point so the mains won't heat evenly. it is very likely you will have balance problems and problems with water hammer if you don't remove the old header and pipe each main separately to the new header. each riser should slope toward the main so the riser can't collect water. the tees should come off the top or off the side at a 45 from the header and you should use 45s to offset to connect the mains to the header. If the mains aren't parallel flow they need to be dripped before the header and all drips need to go below the water line before they connect.
the header should be connected i the order of:
riser(s) from boiler
risers from header to mains
equalizer.
the equalizer should reduce in the vertical either with a vertical reducer or reducing ell so it doesn't trap water in the header
you may need to make the header a u shape to get enough space for the fittings for all the mains.
mattmia2