Best Of
Re: Moving Olsen oil furnace to new basement and parts identification
I am confused. Everything about that burner says Beckett. Except the cad cell location. What am I missing?
Rick
Re: Is there a list of the best help forums for the various 'challenges' we encounter?
find the manufacturer's instructions, there are detailed instructions about how to do the various details and how to hang the product so it can move and resists water and rodents.
mattmia2
Re: New steam boiler - newbie help
You can and in my opinion should total up the radiator sqft edr in you home yourself particularly if the contractor did not share the radiator by radiator details with you. It is not hard and then you know for sure whether you are getting the right size boiler. Below is one of many cheat sheets to use. Send photos of your radiators to this forum if you have any questions or doubts about the measures.
Re: What size liner?
NFPA 54 has the specifications. Don't take it upon yourself to do the job of the professional. The size of a chimney liner required by NFPA 54 depends on several factors, including the type of appliance being vented, the fuel type, and the specific venting system used. You know the size because you have selected the WM CGa4. but before you actually select that boiler, are you sure that it is not oversized for your needs?
Assuming that the proper heat loss calculation has been done and you know that your home has a heat loss of more than 52,000BTUh and less then 77,000 BTUh then the CGa4 is the proper size boiler for your home. Chances are, if you are replacing an existing boiler with the same size boiler, then the CGa-4 may be oversized.
The gas input of the CGa-4 is 105,000 BTUh so the gas piping and the venting must use that specification to select the proper size. Here is an excerpt from NFPA 54 published my MetalFab. These Venting tables indicate that if you are venting a single category I appliance that is rated at 105,000 BTU input when using a single wall vent connector (the connector is commonly called the "smoke pipe" that connects the draft hood to the chimney base) you must have a minimum diameter of 5" diameter based on table 6, and should not be larger than 12" diameter. There is some disagreement as the the maximum size number and I refer that issue to @Bob Harper, the Venting Expert on HeatingHelp.com.
However, I believe that Maximum size is not the issue for you. You just want to know the minimum size in order to select the proper liner size and 5" will do it. Now sliding a 5" corrugated liner into that chimney will actually reduce the free area to something like that of a 4.5" diameter smooth pipe. So I might opt for a 5.5" corrugated liner. Or you can line the chimney with 5" smooth pipe sections and hope you don't get stuck half way thru the project. 6" will also do it if you can fit it down your chimney. The larger one will allow you to add another gas appliance in the event that you want to add a water heater to that chimney in the future.
I hope this helps.
Still believe that you should leave it to the experts
Re: Need advice: What type of HVAC system & capacity to install, 3-bedroom house
this thread is 9 years old.
pecmsg
Re: Heat loss calc..
Piping looks good.
The only thing I don't care for is the flex gas line connector. If it was me I would drop the tee lower so the flex has a straighter run with gradual bends. Like 2 45s. JMHO
Re: Heat loss calc..
95 feet of fin tube ELEMENTS (not the shell) can deliver no more than 47,500 BTUH. So any boiler that can deliver MORE than 47,500 BTUH is too large for your house.
If you actually measure the elements (inside the shell) the length will probably be about 85 feet………………resulting in a maximum delivery of 42,500 BTUH. Figure 75% efficiency and the boiler you require is 56,000 BTUH. NOT MORE.
Buy more………pay for more for the entire life of the boiler!!!😫
LRCCBJ
Re: New steam boiler - newbie help
Hopefully the old company still has someone that knows steam.
Re: 1966 heating oil tank
I agree price is crazy. I can remember buying 275s at a tank MFG on Cherry Street in East Hartford. When you went to pick them up he would ask "MA. or CT" and then tack weld the appropriate tag on the tank then hit that spot with black spray paint. I am sure they were never pressure tested as they were supposed to be.
Price was either $50/tank or $75/tank can't remember. We would load 4 on a pick up truck and head back to Springfield.
Re: 1966 heating oil tank
Two things I have not noticed in any comments
- Oil tanks can rot away from the inside. That is the usual way a basement tank starts to leak since the outside of the tank is protected from the weather. That said, removing the tank bottom deposits and sludge from the bottom may expose some pin holes that are being blocked or plugged up by that sludge. Spending $$$ to clean a tank may clean the leaks out and then you need a new tank ASAP!
- Never put any oil from your old tank back into your new tank!!! So plan on running out of oil the day you are getting your new tank. Any combination of sludge and oil that is left in the old tank needs to be disposed of. Don't try to save a few dollars by putting 60 years of oil problems in your brand new tank.
Additionally, consider a double wall plastic tank like the Roth or Granby offerings.