Best Of
Re: Vent placement in home 2-pipe steam heat system
First off, that asbestos insulation needs to be removed. You will need a licensed abatement company for that.
Second, the piping around the boiler is all wrong. That Carrier boiler is a re-branded Dunkirk, and Dunkirks are extremely sensitive to improper piping. The manual is here:
The steam needs to enter at one end of the header, and the drip must be at the other end. The present piping has steam coming in from two directions, which can interfere with condensate (water) drainage.
The vent in the pic is a radiator vent, which is too small. Are there vents at the ends of the steam mains?
How about a pic of a radiator that has an original shutoff valve and return fitting?
Re: Floor Closet Flange Toilet
I have to say that I think they are made better than they ever were. I don't think the move to Mexico made any issue to their quality.
Most modern toilets don't have space for a ballcock, brass or otherwise, and since they have become a boutique item the price is ridiculous.
Re: Whats involved in a refrigerant line repair
Yeah it takes a lot longer than you think to repair refrigerant lines. If this company is doing the work at no charge based on your past business with them it seems like they are probably a good one to stick with.
GGross
Re: Minisplit head placement
Hi, Not sure if this approach fits, but I'd use a ducted mini-split in the floor 1 unit and put it just above a lowered ceiling in the hallway that serves a bedroom and bath. From there it could condition those rooms and the Kitchen. With some creative sheet metal work, perhaps it could take care of the living room as well. A separate head for the "North" bedroom seems needed.
For floor 2, If the ceiling could be lowered in the rectangle that is by the stairs and touches both bedrooms and the kitchen/living room, a ducted mini-split could go there and serve the space.
Yours, Larry
Re: BTU kW Sizing - I am pretty sure this is a stupid question but you decide!
Note that you are just changing the temp setpoint of the boiler. It could be using the full input of the boiler to make the water that temp. You don't know without measuring the power it is consuming over time.
mattmia2
Re: BTU kW Sizing - I am pretty sure this is a stupid question but you decide!
use this:
is this floor heating? If so, those temps are extremely high. Why are you operating it like that?
Caleffi’s Idronics journal on air to water heat pumps is a wonderful resource. You have a pretty easy swap here (assuming radiant floors), so that’s exciting!
Re: Steer me away from potential disaster?... (Heat transfer plate install in Europe)
What is the manufacturing tolerance on the tubing size? how much does it change with temp?
mattmia2
Re: BTU kW Sizing - I am pretty sure this is a stupid question but you decide!
There are two different aspects to this. The first in response to the specific question is that heat pumps are usually (at least in the US) rated in BTUh power, not in KW. Thus you want to compare your boiler power in BTUh to the rated output of the heat pump, also in BTUh. Since you know that your current boiler is more than adequate to meet the house demand, you certainly don't need to go larger — and might or might not be able to go to a smaller unit.
However.
Unlike a boiler, the potential power output of a heat pump falls off at low temperatures, so you also need to do you power comparison using the heat pump output at the lowest temperature you want the unit to provide your heat. My recollection of northern Wisconsin is that it can get a bit chilly, so this will be an important factor. The temperatures at which various heat pumps start losing power, and how much they lose, varies a lot with different models and different makers.
Re: Beckett Oil Burner
Do you have a combustion analyzer? If not, you will need one. If you don't test, you're guessing, and that never works out well.
Re: Minisplit head placement
I would also prefer to put ductwork in. The home will be much more comfortable. Mini splits need to be installed on an exterior wall so you can drain the condensate outside and access the line set fittings from the outside. This limits where you can install the indoor units.
I know you technically can install them on an interior wall, but anytime that is done it becomes a nightmare for service. Condensate drainage usually requires a pump which can be problematic. Personally I think installing them on an interior wall is idiotic.
If you can install a proper ducted system you will be much better off in the long run.
