Best Of
Re: Wall heater ignition issue
Hello 307TurboFire,
You did not really say what got you to this point ? Is this the first lighting for this season and it has been off since last season ? Was any work done ? Any piping left loose, any pipes cracked ?
On the first lighting of the pilot after its been off for a while it often takes a bit to purge the air out of the line then the " Hold it for 30 seconds after pilot lights " is to ensure the thermocouple is warmed enough to keep the pilot on.
Sound like there is a gas leak that should not be.
109A_5
Re: Floor heating not working, any ideas?
Fair, here is a wider picture of the piping:
These seems to be the purge ports on the pipes to me, or am I wrong?
Also there are these valves in the system, which I think are to empty it?
As for the two insulated pipes being closed, those are for the cooling as far as I understand - here cooled water is provided during summer, and hot water during winter. That's why they're closed - but fair point to keep that in mind for bleeding/purging.
Honestly I would rather leave this to the contractor since I'm renting and don't want to be personally liable for any damages. Just was wondering if the issue may indeed be air in the system, or something else to consider.
d4n1
Re: Separate circulating temperatures for zones on same radiant manifold
"What's the normal strategy to determining flow rate?"
First you determine how much heat you want out of a zone. Then you decide what temperature drop you want between the sent water and returning water. The heat output (in BTU/hr) is equal to the temperature drop (in F) times the flow rate (in GPM) times 500.
From your description it sounds like you'd rather target a specific floor temperature rather than a heat output. If that's the case, the heat output (in BTU/hr) is equal to the difference between the room temperature and the floor temperature times the square footage of the floor, times 2.
Re: One radiator doesn’t heat. Is it imbalanced venting?
why don't you show the near boiler piping, and the 2 mains coming off,
removing the vents just let's steam pressure escape, control where it's going, slow the hot rads,
neilc
Re: Steam experts out there?
Yes very true. The pig tail should be installed so that condensate can develop in the curl. Ive even filled the things with water before installing. The water protects the the control from the steam.
You might need to replace the gauge and the pressuretrol and install them correctly.
Intplm.
Re: Jimmy Carter
On energy, Carter had insight into the future in many ways, even concerns on climate change. Sadly, Reagan's first official act as incoming president had the solar panels removed from the White House - smh
Regards,
RTW
RTW
Re: Separate circulating temperatures for zones on same radiant manifold
If you want to have different circulating temperatures in the two zones, you really need to have two separate mixing valves — and, correspondingly, two pumps pulling from the mix valve outlets. However, if there is a balance valve on the supply to the tile zone, you could try running the whole thing warmer and just throttling the flow to the wood floor zone. That may or may not work… depends as much as anything on how the wood floor piping is laid out.
Re: Made In the USA vs. ?
I've noticed that PSC oil burner motors made in China don't last long. When I learned Beckett was switching their sourcing to China, I bought up all the previous units I could find- OK, they came from "Rotomatika" in Romania, but they hold up better than the Chinese ones.