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Re: Proper way to bleed/flush a 2 zone split loop
You may find that you need to really purge each line of pipe individually, and you may not have the valves to do that easily (if at all). I can't really make out… but it may be possible with the balancing valves if they can close enough. And purging involves a full flow of water under pressure; the pressure reducing/maintaining valve may not be able to do that — and going out a drain somewhere. If you don't get wet, you probably aren't purging enough.
If the Schrader valve on the expansion tank is hissing, it may be possible to tighten it up and make it stop. It may not, too, in which case the tank may need replacing. In any case, the tank must be pressurized to the system cold pressure, either with the system drained or with the tank disconnected from the system and empty of water.
Re: Corrosion on burners for a RUUD Achiever 90 plus gas hot air Furnace
Check it to be safe and you have good odds….
Re: Getting my 1924 system going again
If the prv has been sitting unused for years it very likely is stuck especially since i think that model is steel or cast iron.
Re: Ancient Boiler System
what is the pressure
where is the expansion tank? is it an open expansion tank in the attic?
are all the circulators running?
that was a gravity conversion. that is the second boiler at least.
is there just one thermostat?
more likely air than valves closed unless someone was working on the system recently but it wouldn't hurt to make syre all the valves to the system are open.
Re: Getting my 1924 system going again
That setup on the tank is to make draining the tank a little easier. You do not need to do my first step from my previous post to drain the expansion tank. Someone else has made it easier. To start with an empty tank all you need to do is place the end of that hose in the floor drain or laundry tub.
- Make sure valve #2 is closed
- Open valve #4 and let the water out. Once the water has stopped flowing the pressure gauge on the boiler will be at or close to zero PSI
- Open valve #1 and let air into the tank. You will hear air gurgling into the tank.
- After some time the air starts to gurgle into the system, that means the tank is empty and you close all the valves.
- Now open valve #2 to to add water to fill the system back to the proper pressure.
The two red valves are a relief valve and a pressure reducing valve the pressure reducing valve is also known as the automatic fill valve. It takes the house pressure of 30 to 70 PSI and reduces it to about 12 PSI. if it is working properly some folks leave the manual feed valve open so there is always 12 PSI pressure on the system. That way, if you are not getting any heat from any given radiator, you can just open the radiator vent and let air out. VIOLA »»» HEAT!
Re: Corrosion on burners for a RUUD Achiever 90 plus gas hot air Furnace
A furnace like that will often get condensation forming in the air intake pipe during the summer and sometimes it will drip on the burners, it can cause some issues that can be handled by regular maintenance. Some manufacturers recommend a drain tee on the intake pipe. I can't tell anything from your picture but I doubt it's anything serious. The combustion test results don't look terrible. I bet you were dealing with a sales tech who was chasing a commission.
Re: Getting my 1924 system going again
12psig is the amount of pressure needed to lift water to the top of a 2 story house more or less.
Looks like that version pf the prv doesn't have the fast fill lever. it could be stuck.
Is there a manual fill valve? can you show a better picture? I don't see anything bypassing the prv in your picture.
Re: Workmanship
yeah, that is very nice work. Making it easier for the next guy is the finest way to show your craftsmanship.
Re: Corrosion on burners for a RUUD Achiever 90 plus gas hot air Furnace
Likely nothing wrong with it.
Re: Corrosion on burners for a RUUD Achiever 90 plus gas hot air Furnace
I can't tell anything from those pictures. Obviously the HX and burners are steel and are going to rust when you heat them. If it isn't perforated or thin it isn't an issue. If the passages in the burner are clogged with rust then it needs to be cleaned out but they don't need replacement unless they are structurally unsound. If it isn't drafting right that can cause corrosion outside the heat exchanger where it shouldn't be but that is an installation issue, not an issue with the appliance.