Best Of
Re: Calling Peerless 63-series Owners: A Venting Mystery
That's a big drop make sure the stack temp doesn't drop to much.
Bob
BobC
Re: Seeking your thoughts regarding a boiler/system upgrade for a small 1980s ranch.
Perhaps I'm interpreting this wrong when you mentioned "Look up the cost of a new 40,000-50,000 btu CI boiler on line and multiply the cost x4 and you will be in the ballpark." Should I take that to mean to install a new cast Iron boiler ought to cost 4 times the cost of the boiler alone? It's not quite a plug and play operation but jeepers that seems spendy. It appears that many of the better regarded CI boilers are about as expensive as a small Lockinvar mod-con that would purr through the shoulder seasons with a good deal of efficiency.
Re: Funny but not so funny
Your humming noise was most likely that fact that those pipes forgot the words. By placing Sheet Music near the water meter, you may have not heard that humming. I guess those singers were from a night club since you didn't hear them during the day time.
As for me, I only sing when my car is in reverse. I'm a backup singer!
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
Bringing the return line into the boiler at the height of the Hartford loop connection won't work. If in the rare occurrence a return line leaked the water would syphon out of the boiler. You need the header drip to break the syphon.
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
I see at least three things or three benefits of the equalizer.
A drip for the header, especially for a drop header. In which case you could call it a drip.
The Hartford loop needs it to work correctly, by providing a vacuum break. Otherwise the boiler's water could just get siphoned out with a wet return leak.
Providing multiple access points to the wet return to the steam side of things allowing gravity to keep the water level more constant throughout the wet return system.
A 'False Water Line' setup uses an additional equalizer to work correctly.
109A_5
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
Ed my good friend ( @EBEBRATT-Ed I have to specify because there are 3 eds in this thread!) , no one in this thread ever said not to have an equalizer. The only point of it was that it does act to equalize pressure in order to keep water in the boiler while it's running. It makes a nice header drip which I believe the real old books called it.
Re: Wirsbo return manifold leak
I think tightening the black caps, clockwise, turns flow down then off. It pushes the pin and washer, #2 & 5 against the bottom seat.
If you loosen or remove the black cap that valve port will be wide open.
The top of the cap is also a tool that fits over the stem when you remove them. It slides over the valve stem to either adjust, or maybe remove the packing to disassemble and clean the valve.
This is a different brand, but that are all similar insides.
hot_rod
Re: Wirsbo return manifold leak
it looks like a Dahl mini ball valve with an air bleeder
You can turn the silver handle 1/4 turn and replace the white air vent
Wire brush the assembly first to see were it threads apart.
That white vent is probably a hydroscopic type and they have a life expectancy
In all honesty I would just turn off the silver valve and forget about it. Unless the system has been opened up recently, it should be air free and the vent is no longer needed
It is more of a start up vent, when the system is first filled
Be aware old valves can easily break if they have corroded badly , it is a gamble
hot_rod
Re: Heating recommendation for Jackson, WY
Radiant ceilings and or walls is a nice clean, quiet, unobtrusive option. Typically run 110 supply or lower.
I have seen radiant walls with the tube around the bottom 3’ of the wall with a wood wainscot over the tube. No need to worry about picture hangers getting to the tube, with tube down low🫣
If it is a super insulated low heat load, I would not go with a radiant slab, it will rarely feel warm.
hot_rod
Re: [Solved] Taco VT2218 Rattling Sound
That boiler, as per the installation manual should have a full size bypass or primary secondary piping.
The table #1 shows the minimum flow, I doubt that pump, flowing through a 3/4 zone will get you anywhere close to the 14 gpm min. Much less the 18 gpm suggested “normal” rate. Maybe just crank it to its highest speed, although the noise is another issue. There is a reason you keep eating circulators.
In addition I think the boiler oversized by a bit. A heatload calc on three home would determine that. Adding up all the heat emitters is another way to check the boiler output match up.
I think you are headed towards a repipe, maybe even a smaller boiler, although cranking down the red know should lower the boiler firing. Look inside as you adjust, does the flame size decrease? The label on the boiler shows a low end firing of 78,750 btu/hr
hot_rod