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Re: Warren Webster 02H thermostatic radiator traps

Once you get all the traps so they work properly I would add an appropriate sized low pressure gauge so you know what the normal working pressure is for your system.

Cycling on pressure is usually a byproduct of an oversized boiler, where the boiler's Square Footage is excessive for the attached EDR (Equivalent Direct Radiation).

If curious you may want to do an EDR survey and find out your particular situation is.

Some systems were built as a vapor systems with special apparatus that need the pressure limited to work correctly. I don't think that is your case.

If none of your traps are stuck shut and your EDR is well matched to your boiler your normal pressure should be very low.

109A_5

Re: Cost to clean a heat exchanger?

Wrong installer a truly competent hydronic installer would and should have known better and would never had direct piped it or even if it was primary secondary piped would have included a system by pass ( the cheapest ) or a simple danfoss thremic valve should have been done. The issue might have been that the guy who suggested it may have been the only one w a clue and having a clue entitles one to charge more due to the skill set but it does not mean that he will get the job . I toss it out there that just cause ya can press or solder a joint by no means ya have a clue ya just got the tools and maybe some skills .There a million dudes out there just cuttem and toss em in and then later scratching there heads later or don't return calls and don t discount the public utilities for the same . LOL

Now a day if the cover of your book is not up to perceived notion or u are not projection the image of who they want to see your done which in my case is just fine and dandy by me .

perception very funny concept

As always remember peace and good luck need more of both these days

clammy

Re: Cost to clean a heat exchanger?

it is probably caused by lack of return water temp protection, the boiler is probably staying too cold and is condensing. it needs to have a thermostatic bypass or at least a manual bypass to keep the boiler temp up with all the mass in that system. is it a gravity conversion, are the original mains huge?

mattmia2

Re: Gas boiler heating house without call for heat

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1864892#Comment_1864892

This is the same CR relay that’s in my boiler now:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-R8222U1006-24-V-General-Purpose-Relay-with-DPST-N-O-switching

Pretty reasonable price

FrankMaraschino

Re: Warren Webster 02H thermostatic radiator traps

Never Seize is a good product but use sparingly.
you don’t need the grease and graphite in the boiler

pecmsg

Re: Boiler wiring tips

I'll add, don't trust what you find in the field. I've seen green wire used for power. Assume it's live, and test. 🤓

Yours, Larry

Larry Weingarten

Re: high humidity in my house

Imho high velocity and dehumidifying are two words not to be used together. I dont have any experience with unico type systems or any newer residential systems (i work comercial)but what is your cfm/ton of cooling? And where are you located? Bringing in outside air with an erv has to be designed very carefully and in very humid climates is almost always a nightmare. You have a very inefficient and from what it sounds like ineffective system designed here. Wondering why this is the route you or someone else chose for your home. Im many areas of the country reheat is no longer even allowed to be designed into new installs with few exceptions but none of them being residential. You need to be careful playing around with your chiller. Make and model of chiller would be helpful. You cant run the water temps down that low safely without a glycol mix. And there's no need for chilled water below 42f in any building for comfort cooling. Your water flow is too high rite now, how is the flow controlled? Dp? Your chiller must be cycling alot which is not good for it. You should have return water in the mid 50s for most conditions. As your return wtr temp drops below that your chillers efficiency reduces as well,and quite a bit too. You already have one of the most inefficient residential setups I've ever heard about, why not try to get it all running correctly? What I would do is focus more on keeping humidity out of the building rather than trying to remove humidity once its entered. It's a house, not a school or office building where the setup you have is common due to ventilation requirements. Why not just run the fresh air intake only when its needed, have it interlocked with exhaust fans and dryer. Pretty easy to do with a relay and a few ct's you should be able to run 42-44f supply water sp. With no reheat needed if everything was designed and sized correctly.