Best Of
Re: Bell & Gossett Circulator
You'd have to get a plumber to install a standpipe, pretty much with any heating contractor. the might subcontract a plumber, but installing a standpipe isn't heating. most contractors would just run it to an existing drain somewhere in the basement.
The deal with the devil that you've made for the utility to install the equipment is that the contractor works for the utility, not you.
mattmia2
Re: Considering replacing Beckett gun on 35 yr old Weil McClain boiler
$200.00 for the AFG oil burner on eBay is not such a great deal, considering that junk and scrap metal dealers seem to get hundreds of them for the price of the weight of the burner in mixed metals $$ per pound. Any plumber that installed gas heat will have access to those burners for free. Just hang around a plumbing company's shop at the end of the day and you may find someone unloading an old oil heater with burner that will cost you nothing. But that may be a hit or miss situation.
What oil burner is currently on your heating system? Beckett made the AF burner over 45 years ago and the parts for the AFG burner fit that same housing from the 1980s. For the price of a Fuel Pump (less than $70 on eBay) or a solenoid valve you can get the positive cut off that any new oil burner has. You can replace your primary control to get the interrupted ignition and pre purge features to work on your existing oil burner.
The only thing your older oil burner may not have that a new burner can offer is the flame retention design that makes the oil burn more efficiently. If your existing burner is not a flame retention design and is using the older 1725 RPM burner motor, then you may get better efficiency with a newer burner.
So, knowing what your existing oil burner is will determine if the $200.00 eBay burner is worth the investment.
Preferred gauge glass cutter
Just curious what your preferred gauge glass cutter is.I use this one but see other ones on the market that are smaller.
Re: My New Project / Hobby I fear
This looks like gravity hot water heat? No pumps? But no steam type trim? Fair enough.
In which case…
The big greay horizontal tank is called a compression tank, and it should be half full (more or less) of water. There should NOT, repeat NOT be any other air separator on the system. Rather it should be piped so that any air wandering around in the system can be picked up by a pipe and make its way into that tank.
The problem with heat on the third floor may simply be that there really isn't quite enough pressure in the system to get those radiators full — which they need to be to get circulation happening. Is there a pressure gauge somewhere handy? It looks sort of as though there is. What does it read? For three floors you need about 25 psig at the boiler to be sure you have enough.
Gravity systems are also subject to problems from pipes which aren't quite pitched as they should be, but especially to valves which aren't all the way open.
Can you send us more information?
Re: Maytag Refrigerator Ice Maker Frozen
I'm not positive, but am fairly sure that's the reason most of them have so many problems now.
They work much better in the freezer.
ChrisJ
Re: Maytag Refrigerator Ice Maker Frozen
You seem to have ruled out almost everything but here's a long shot, but worth checking. On the top left outside of my fridge there is a small vented cover. Underneath the cover is where the ice tray water is fed from the solenoid into the ice tray. If your model is similar it is a least worth inspecting for leaks or misalignment of water flow to the tray. The plastic pipes do sometimes freeze which can cause unexpected issues.
Bill_17
Re: Piping from scratch
Do a heat loss calculation breaking it down by room and size your radiators that way. you may be able to use smaller mains once you size things to your actual load.
you can pipe it direct return as you describe, you can pipe it reverse return where the first emitter on the supply main is the last emitter on the return main, or you can home run small piping, usually pex, from each emitter to a manifold. On a small system like that they will all be about equal. Make sure you have a way to balance the system, either radiator valves or valves on the manifold if you pipe it home run. If you do the valving on the manifold right, home run will be easy to purge, direct or reverse return may not be able to get enough flow to purge the emitters and may require bleeding of each emitter.
your load will give you the flow you need in each emitter and branch and you can size the pipe and circulators or circulator and zone valves from that.
mattmia2
Re: Can fill valve cause water to leak into toilet bowl?
@orioncyg Your video shows that when you pull up on the float ball, the water stops.
You need to change the ballcock, AKA the fill valve. You should also check to see if the float ball is rubbing against the side of the tank. If it is, bend the float rod away from the tank wall. If it's rubbing, it will not fully shut the ballcock off.
Better to replace it with a Fluidmaster 400 series fill valve. That should solve the entire issue. The clear poly tubing on the old one might need a push-fit reducing coupling to adapt the new to the old, and/or the new fill tube that comes with the Fluidmaster should attach to the overflow on the flush valve.
You mention that you changed the flapper, where the flapper rests on the flush valve…check that there is no disfigurement on the flush valve. If there is, the new flapper will not seat properly.
Here is a picture of a Fluidmaster fill valve.
Intplm.