Best Of
Re: Cast iron radiator output tables are wrong?
I thought I had explained this in my response. The heat capacity of the water and cast iron in the system is enormous compared to the heating load, the output of the radiators or the output of the boiler. This causes significant time shifting between the output of the boiler and the output of the radiators.
It's like pulling on a slinky attached to a weight. The weight moves from your pull, but delayed.
No information that you've provided is inconsistent with the belief that the radiators are in fact putting out their rated output. It squares with the reported run time of the boiler and with the total fuel consumption.
Re: Is my pump too big. Circulator velocity noise.
So, to quickly answer your question about a smaller circ, the 007e is a variable speed delta P circ, so it is running slower based upon the system that is connected to it such as yours with 1/2".
There are times I hear harmonics in the pipes in a house and sometimes the quickest and easiest fix is adding a pipe clamp on a long run that you can see and rteach

Re: Return/Condensate pump questions
The switch shown in the picture is a common mechanical linkage type float switch. There are adjustable semi-circular stops on the linkage dial that set the start and stop points.
As others have said above, most common cause of short cycling condensate pump is leaking pump discharge check valve, followed by improperly adjusted float switch linkage.
Looks to me like some of the return line piping feeding this pump's receiving tank is below the tank's inlet. If true, you have a water seal in this return line which prevents the system from venting air. Is there any other form of venting air from these return lines?

Re: Return/Condensate pump questions
»someone installed it trying to fix some other problem«
over the years; well designed properly working go astray…..
pumps are sold by well meaning hungry folk.

Re: Return/Condensate pump questions
I believe there is a square d float switch with a box that looks like a pumptrol.

Re: Return/Condensate pump questions
Check valve in the discharge line would be my first guess.

Re: Return/Condensate pump questions
If that thing is triggered by a float switch in the receiver, I'd agree with @mattmia2 up there — a small leak in the check valve coming back from the boiler. But wait… there's more! Is there a way to adjust the differential between on and off on whatever triggers it? That could also be a problem — whether it's a condensate return (switch in the tank) or a boiler feed (switch in the boiler).
Re: Return/Condensate pump questions
very strong possibility it doesn't need it and someone installed it trying to fix some other problem.
The first thing to look at is what controls the pump in the feeder.
A missing or failed check valve could cause the condensate to drain out of the boiler and back in to the tank every time the pump shuts off or various arrangements that need some sort of a vacuum breaker or equalizer so they form a syphon.

Re: Bathroom Remodel - Some Basic Insulation Questions for Radiant Floor
If you can get under the room, that opens more options.
Any on top system will raise the floor level. Perhaps there is a layer that could be removed if it were an old mud set? There are transition strips to accomodate a small difference in floor levels from room to room.
I would go with electric cable or mat,
or a small 2-1/2 or 6 gallon electric tank if you want pipes instead of wires :)
An example of my go to tank system for master bath floors and walls.

Re: Excessive Water Hammer / Knocking trying to find source
I would also move the makeup water feed line from the equalizer, to the wet return while they're piping back there,
you said, "I do hear lots of knocking behind the radiator", Do you mean the boiler? that's that long high horizontal, have it redone as everyone has drawn, straight up from the floor, and as short as possible into the equalizer,
lastly, buy "We Got Steam" sold here in the bookstore
