Best Of
Re: System2000 water tank leaking
It is always best to replace it with a tank from Energy kinetics but if you are looking to use a standard electric tank there are instructions on our website to convert a standard tank for use with our boiler. Feel free to have your service provider reach out to tech support for assistance if needed at 800-323-2066
jringel
Re: Freeze Proof Sill Cock
When we put them into a wall, I would leave a big loop of pex so it could be pulled out and replaced without cutting into a sheetrock wall.
I modified a Woodford into a 10' long version to go out under a deck, into the rim joist. I lengthened the outer jacket, it is 3/4 CST, and lengthened the brass rod inside.
Installed on Russ Roses cabin on Table Rock lake :) Some of you know that name from Heatway daze!
It worked for years until a neighbor connected a hose one winter, preventing it from draining.
hot_rod
Re: Freeze Proof Sill Cock
I like the solid brass brands. Look for one that will drain out even with a hose connected.
I really dislike the plastic handle models.
I like hot and cold in valve, in one location for washing the truck. I have the C-108 , shown below my house and shop. It uses "00" bib washers which might make @mattmia2 happy. Or not:)
Getting harder to find solid copper/ brass, but Prier is one brand.
I have not tried the newest 114 model, I think Eric Aune at Mechanical-Hub put one on his shop a while back.
The 1/4 turn are not as handy, if you try to regulate water for a garden soaker hose for example.
Arrowhead brass is another quality bib. They have an "Icebreaker" model that protects from freezing.
hot_rod
Re: Viessmann help?
This is already happening more and more. Homeowners are
selecting and buying the equipment and then hiring a contractor to install it. Some of us are willing and able
to scour the internet looking for the best price. We have
the luxury of time to go shopping, unlike the busy contractors. We have the luxury of time to read each and
every word in the installation manuals several times.
People in the supply chain need to recognize that while
many HO's are not very smart about this kind of stuff, we
are not universally idiots. Many of us have technical and
engineering educations, and work in industrial settings,
and/or have experience in areas where engineering and safety intersect, like building race cars and flying planes.
People get injured and killed when 2x4's are used to build
bad stairs and decks. The primary use of dimension lumber
is structural, which thus implies safety issues. Do we
attempt to solve this problem by controlling supply?
-JimH
JimH
Re: Freeze Proof Sill Cock
mine has a metal handle. although it has corroded a bit. I believe the actual washer is just like a 1/4 large but there is a check valve also stacked on the stem. Don't know, haven't had to do anything with it beyond tightening the packing.
It isn't rpz backflow protection, it doesn't have to be effective in all conditions. It would still keep water from syphoning from the hose.
mattmia2
Re: Looking for ideas for future videos Please let me know
@leonz First of all its Ray and not Mr. I agree 100% and I do yell at the Tv saying the people are crazy for doing it LOL
@Larry Weingarten I may have to pick your brain for that video
Re: Pressure/Booster Pump for Residence with Low Water Pressure & Flow
Hot Rod, No PRV installed in this house.
Larry Weingarten, Thanks for the information on pressure compensating aerators. Did not know they were available. Cleaned out the aerator in the new kitchen sink faucet and removed a lot of stuff and the flow is better. Need to check other fixtures for dirty aerarots.
Re: steam vs vapor system
Hmm. Two of them and a toggle relay would duplicate a vaporstat. Hi limit closes-toggle off, low limit opens-toggle on.
Re: Super hot mini boiler no power
Seems the troubleshooting guide is a bit vague in your case.
I believe this is the wiring diagram. There is a 2.5 Amp fuse on the 24 VAC side. A multimeter could be used to verify the power.
https://alliedboilers.com/wp-content/ProductDocuments/MG/MG%20Installation%20%26%20Service%20Manual%20%28S9361A%29.pdf
109A_5
Re: Boiler harmonics/piping fix
I haven't posted lately because I felt insulted. My nature is to be helpful & hopeful rather than hurtful. Kinda like Ed. But, I felt compelled to address this post.
Eric, I have, in any installation, rules that I always try to follow. The supply piping into any pump, 10 to 12 pipe diameters of straight pipe and 5 pipe diameters of straight pipe on the output of the pump before any directional change in flow. Common Manifold piping should be generously sized. ( I don't know whether yours is 1" or 1 1/4". You have 3 zones of 3/4" pipe at 4 GPM for 12 GPM when all zones are operating. The Common Manifold piping should be sized for that.) The Extank should be on the imput to the pump(s). Yours appears to be. I always pump into the highest pressure loss in a circuit. The Air Eliminator should be on the hottest water from the boiler. Yours is kinda iffy. There are more rules, but let me say that I like an install to be as aesthetically pleasing and symmetrical and minimal as possible. Yours, Eric, is not. Let's address the Delta T.
The Delta T is not sacrosanct, but it does indicate how a system is functioning. A 10 deg Delta T can lead to short cycling of the boiler and a 50 deg Delta T can indicated an undersized boiler, excessively long heat emitters, an excessively high heat exchange rate to the environment, etc. This is my thinking on your sys as to the Delta T. (The reason for a bypass valve is to prevent or minimize boiler condensation. All boilers condense at some point in the heating cycle. The idea is to prevent sustained condensation which is destructive to the flue and boiler heat exchanger.) The boiler bypass valve between the input and the output of the boiler is a ball valve. It appears to me to be 1" piping and valve. This means that the valve would have to be 97% closed to provide any real regulation. Aside that, a ball valve is a poor choice for bypass valve. You would have been better off with a 1/2" pipe and 1/2" ball valve as it would have given you better regulation. I prefer a Caleffi boiler bypass valve and I have used with great success a Taco I- Series modulating valve with sensor set at 135 degs.
Mixing the hot water from the boiler output to the boiler input will lower the Delta T. What is helping lower the Delta T, also, I think that the Grundfos pump in the common manifold piping. I DO NOT think that that pump is necessary and I would remove it as your diagram shows. I have used your diagram many times and would only change the location of the pump. Per my rules, I would pump into the boiler not away. I do not know the BTU rating of your boiler, but for every 10,000 BTUs you need 1 GPM thru the boiler. So, size the boiler pump on the flow you need to over come the pressure loss of the boiler circuit, which I would think is pretty minimal. Look at the Grundfos UPS26-99FC 3 speed flow chart and select the GPM you need at the pressure loss and select the proper speed or maybe a different pump. One last thing before I close this comment.
As the boiler reaches 170 deg when the harmonics start, close the bypass valve and see if that makes a difference and measure the Delta T. Also, I would put balancing valves on the output zone piping to the Common Manifold and set them to about 4GPM. This would balance out your 3 circuits so that the greatest flow wouldn't be going thru the shortest circuit. I like Caleffi Quick Setter balancing valves.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-132552A-3-4-NPT-QuickSetter-Balancing-Valve-w-Flow-Meter
