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Re: Steam Boiler blows controlers
Assuming you do not have any issues with brown outs (less than normal 120 volts) coming to the boiler, I have three guesses.
First is the boiler short cycles and the control is getting worn out. Second guess is the control us getting overheated from the boiler and or flame. Third guess is that you are overloading the control.
A photo or two might help.
First is the boiler short cycles and the control is getting worn out. Second guess is the control us getting overheated from the boiler and or flame. Third guess is that you are overloading the control.
A photo or two might help.
Re: problems with Triangle tube piping
Someone likes iron pipe. Its a bit of a semi organized mess. Little hard for me to see in photo but does not look like its piped primary secondary, 1st mistake. If you did not want to spend the $$ to to some semi substantial repipe. They could just tie system supply and return piping together with some closely spaced tees or a low loss header and then pipe the boiler supply and return to either the closely spaced tees or LL header and add a pump it looks like. I can't see how the dhw coil is tied into boiler but that might have some influence on how its done also. It would be nice to see it cleaned up a fair amount but $$$ are not always available. Just a thought.
Re: problems with Triangle tube piping
The external pump is an issue in this case as well, being that your boiler is a combi it has an internal pump and diverter valve, when you call for DHW the diverting valve closes off flow to the heating side, with that external pump still running it can fight the diverting valve and cause issues, it must be primary secondary piped. The installing company should come and fix it, it is not an acceptable install
I agree with Tim that it is an organized mess though, fairly neat layout, but unacceptable piping strategy
I agree with Tim that it is an organized mess though, fairly neat layout, but unacceptable piping strategy
GGross
1
New install, Steam boiler
The line running to the power switch has power
The transformer doesnt have any.
It was working just fine.
Again, new install.
What happened to make my transformer on my boiler no longer have power?
Model- GSA 150
The transformer doesnt have any.
It was working just fine.
Again, new install.
What happened to make my transformer on my boiler no longer have power?
Model- GSA 150
DigBoy
1
Re: Would you hire this Spammer to fix/replace your Boiler?
Wow, I had no idea "Woobun" Mass looks so much like Europe!
The Audi ahead of the van has a Switzerland license plate...Yep, the plate is from Basel. France, Germany meet Switzerland right there. Nice place!
...10% or less of the plumbing hvac tradespeople truly understand hydronics. The theory, calculations, piping.That makes it even more ironic that they should have chosen that photo at random. Hydronics relies on fluid dynamics, and Basel is where Daniel Bernoulli lived, taught, and is buried. Had to pay my respects at his grave when I was lucky enough to visit years ago.
SteamFTW
1
Re: New Main Vents
Use cutting oil. It makes a huge difference over oils without extreme pressure additives.
mattmia2
1
Re: New Main Vents
There has to be a slope in the piping to insure any water can easily find it's way back to the boiler. if water can pool anyplace in the piping it will kill the steam. See if you can lift the whole radiator up to correct any sag, make sure the radiator has some slope so water can find it's way back to the boiler
I'd look for a low spot between the existing main vent and where the steam main turns down to the boiler return. Also look for as low spot between the steam main and the radiator. Aging buildings sag and that sag can cause problems where none existed when the pipes were installed.
Bob
I'd look for a low spot between the existing main vent and where the steam main turns down to the boiler return. Also look for as low spot between the steam main and the radiator. Aging buildings sag and that sag can cause problems where none existed when the pipes were installed.
Bob
BobC
1
Re: Tube Fin Radiator Help
You can not use 3/4" copper tube radiation on a one pipe steam system. Replace the radiation with 1.25 or larger copper tube radiation. That 3/4" tube radiation is OK on hot water and for a short run on 2 pipe steam. Also, that increaser (reducer) should be replaced with an eccentric reducer or no reducer at all.
Re: Tube Fin Radiator Help
My first thought would be to find out if that valve is really open all the way. Sometimes the closure disc comes adrift, or partly adrift, and impedes the flow of condensate.Thanks...I hadn't considered that. I should have noted that the valve doesn't fully close so I had to replace the vent with a plug to get it to stop knocking.
puck8605
1
Re: Gage Description..
looks like you're cutting in at 3 psi, and out at 4,
too high for residential steam,
dial the left scale down to 1, or just under,
you will cut in at 1, and out at 2,
what's your gage show?
post a more general picture, floor to ceiling showing the boiler, and connected piping above, and all controls and sightglass,
Have you serviced the pigtail ?
too high for residential steam,
dial the left scale down to 1, or just under,
you will cut in at 1, and out at 2,
what's your gage show?
post a more general picture, floor to ceiling showing the boiler, and connected piping above, and all controls and sightglass,
Have you serviced the pigtail ?
neilc
4