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Re: Importance of outdoor temp sensor for reset on Viessmann Vitodens B1KE-120 ?
Tekmar, now a Watts company pioneered outdoor reset controls, sold thousands. Now most boilers have this option built in
Their essays are still some of the best at explaining reset functions
Their essays are still some of the best at explaining reset functions
hot_rod
2
Re: Importance of outdoor temp sensor for reset on Viessmann Vitodens B1KE-120 ?
I think you're mixing up your min flow rate for your domestic hot, 0.5 gpm, and the low loss header that you likely should have for the heating flow,... generally these are meant to be piped primary/secondary. If the flow rates are acceptable for the boiler they can be direct piped, but generally not a great idea.Can you elaborate on flow rates being acceptable? I'm fairly certain that I'm never going to exceed the max flow rate, but I have faucets that don't often support much flow. What will happen if i regularly use a faucet below the minimum flow rate? I see the B1KE-120 lists 0.5 gpm as the minimum flow through the heat exchanger for boiler start. Does that mean that 0.5 gpm is the minimal flow? If I use less then 0.5 gpm will it just never produce hot water? And if I'm using 0.6 gpm and it gets reduced to 0.4 gpm the hot water will cease to come out?
My main concern would be that I was doing damage to the boiler so hopefully that's not the case. Maybe it cycles a few additional times leading to a bit more energy use and wear?
edit: I just checked my bathroom faucet and it's only about .3 gpm currently
It clearly needs a new aerator, despite the current one being less than a year old. Mineral deposits tend to build up over time. I cleaned it a bit and got the flow above 0.5 gpm.
I found this quote:
"A low-loss header must be used when the system flow rate exceeds the maximum (or minimum) flow rate of the Vitodens 100-W boiler"
I'm guessing I don't have a "low-loss header"...
the domestic, and the aerator you just cleaned,
if the 0.3 was you only hot domestic call, the boiler heater would not have turned on, or stayed on if it did turn on, now with the clean aerator flow at or above0.5, the boiler will send hot water.
the low loss header, or primary secondary piping, allows for required heating flow thru the boiler, if and when a too small flow rate zone is calling for heat.
2 different issues wrapped up inside you wall heater.
neilc
1
Re: Venting - What's code?
As far as I know, there is no difference on the residential side anyway. I have always plumbed two story houses using the aggregate area, and generally wind up with one three inch vent through the roof, but not necessarily all the way to the main.
Rick
Rick
Re: Venting - What's code?
When I was in Alaska, you could have multiple penetrations coming out the roof as long as the aggregate area equaled the required building sewer line, usually 3", and they had to be a minimum of 2" because of frost. I always tried to tie all my lines in in the attic so I only had one penetration through the roof, which I made as close to the peak as I could.
Rick
Rick
Re: Hydrostat 3250 Plus issues
Take a picture of the hydrostat with the cover off so your settings can be viewed.
pedmec
1
Re: Importance of outdoor temp sensor for reset on Viessmann Vitodens B1KE-120 ?
From his many past posts it sounds like the OP is asking and willing to learn the fine tuning of his system. Good for him.exqheat said:"It really takes a homeowner willing to play around with the control to get it to the most efficient and comfortable setting. There is no one correct answer and you cannot expect the contractor to make a bunch or trips back without getting paid." Absolute nonsense. It needs to be automatic for most consumers who don't know the difference between a boiler switch and a light switch.
More consumers should embrace the heating system.
Studies show the majority of homeowner's are unhappy with their heating systems.
hot_rod
2
Re: Taco, Grundfos and Wilo circulators
Circulators fundamentally do the same thing, deliver BTU’s, but it’s how efficiently, and effectively it gets the job done that sets the bar.With all due respect, you're only kind-of right. I don't know many field techs (a big part of any pump manufacturer's customer base) who can speak to the efficiency or performance of a circulator once installed. Pumps are a big deal. Pump technology is no small thing. I'm also doing this for something like 35 years now and I can say that the way a pump company presents itself, makes its product available, supports its product, and perhaps most importantly, educates its potential customers on product selection tools and methods, is the winner at this game.
http://www.tacocomfort.com/products/variable_speed_products/007e/index.html
I find Wilo to be marketed to engineers. I see them on lots of job specs that come across my desk and then there's always some great effort involved in sourcing and pricing the model specified.
Engineers rarely, if ever, have to put their hands on a pump so they don't care what they specify if it looks good on paper. I rarely see Wilo on supply house shelves.
I've had more Grundfoss shaft seizures, by far, than any other pump manufacturer, and my techs often find their literature overbearing or confusing.
Taco makes a great product line which is only getting better and more technologically advanced, and their curves and included literature are field-tech friendly: install this way and not that way; wire to these specs; with X head you'll get Y flow.
I also like B&G very much and my local rep is fantastic, so out of the top 4 contenders, my choices have been limited for me through professional experience.
Pumps are not a commodity. They are a tool.
JohnNY
1
Re: Exhaust Smell from all faucets and showerheads : Tankless Water heater Rinnai RU119iN reu-n3237ff-us
We got a 'scorched' smell when hot water ran. New-To-Us on-demand heater fed from a small propane tank. Plumber pointed out that the tank was nearly out, the gas pressure musta fallen every time the big fire came on to heat water. Lean fire probably burned bad. Why it smelled 'scorched' I don't know, but topping off the propane was the cure. The smell was not just in-shower but pretty much the whole house, the un-blown heater's fumes just rose by convection and, if under-heated, had places to slip out of smokepipes and out of cellar.
Obviously if you are on city-gas, this should not happen (worn/bunged regulator?).
Obviously if you are on city-gas, this should not happen (worn/bunged regulator?).
PRR
1
Re: Exhaust Smell from all faucets and showerheads : Tankless Water heater Rinnai RU119iN reu-n3237ff-us
Hi, Just to help rule things out, how about turning the heater off and then running water from the hot side? See if there is any odor. If not, you can eliminate the possibility of some other part of the hot side being at fault.
Is the odor at all hot taps? If not, it could have something to do with drainage not working right.
Have you had a look at the heater's inlet screen? Any plastic bits there? It's a long shot, but if some plastic bits were in the heat exchanger, maybe heating could create the odor??
I've dealt with a lot of hot water odor problems, but this one is new to me.
Yours, Larry
Is the odor at all hot taps? If not, it could have something to do with drainage not working right.
Have you had a look at the heater's inlet screen? Any plastic bits there? It's a long shot, but if some plastic bits were in the heat exchanger, maybe heating could create the odor??
I've dealt with a lot of hot water odor problems, but this one is new to me.
Yours, Larry
