Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!
Best Of
Re: Converting 2 pipe hot water to 3 zones?
Just in case any of that didn't make sense, we can help you figure the sizes out. http://www.slantfin.com/homeowners-page/ipadapp.html will get you started.
SWEI
5
Re: Converting 2 pipe hot water to 3 zones?
Pipe sizing depends on flow rate, which in turn depends on the room-by-room heat loss and an emitter survey.
How much heat does this room need on the coldest day of the year? What temperature water is needed with the radiation I have installed in order to deliver the required heat?
How much heat does this room need on the coldest day of the year? What temperature water is needed with the radiation I have installed in order to deliver the required heat?
SWEI
5
Re: How to bleed just 1 zone
You could shut off power. Shut the isolation flanges on that pump. Loosen the 4 bolts and rotate the pump. Then you would need to take out the 4 Allen bolts on the motor and rotate it so the electrical box faces up. You may or may not have to disconnect power wiring to the pump.
wogpa67
5
Re: How to bleed just 1 zone
Turn off power also. No need to dead head those other pumps if you get a heat call.On the Tstat 's they are probably setup for hot air. You will need to get into the installer setup to verify.
wogpa67
5
Re: Why does a 17000 btu electric boiler have 1 1/4 inch taps?
sometimes that one block gets used for a range of outputs. Just add additional, or higher KW elements. Cast iron boilers also, even a low BTU boiler might have the same tappings as larger sizes.
hot_rod
5
Re: Buffer Tank - Pros and Cons?
Actually large buffers can be charged under no or low load conditions, then flywheel for weeks or months. I've seen some large solar thermal system in Europe that charge enough buffer in the summer to run the building all winter, heat and DHW with no back up and very low winter solar input.
Actually isn't hat have ground source GEO works, storing solar energy in the earth.
For hydronics it usually involves well insulated, multi thousand gallon tanks. Not for the weak of pocketbook.
Actually isn't hat have ground source GEO works, storing solar energy in the earth.
For hydronics it usually involves well insulated, multi thousand gallon tanks. Not for the weak of pocketbook.
hot_rod
5
Re: Leak in return pipe.
You can always find the clamp type pipe repair kit, with a rubber gasket, which will close up a leak. In both cases, the pipe surface around the repair must be cleaned/sanded thoroughly. If the JB weld does not work, then all traces of the epoxy must be removed to make the clamp type repair work, and that can be difficult.--NBC
Re: Leak in return pipe.
Is this a wet return (down near the floor) or a dry return (an extension of your Steam Main, after the last Radiator)? How big of a leak is it? If small, you can try to clean it really well and apply some JB Weld and see if it holds until the weather breaks. If it's in the middle of a section of pipe, It obviously should be replaced as soon as the weather allows. If it is at a joint, depending on how bad it is, JB Weld may hold, if at a Flange joint, there re gaskets sandwiched inbetween the flanges that need to be replaced.
Fred
5
Re: What's wrong with steam pipe setup?
Here is a link to the OP's original post with pictures.
http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/153801/remodeling-a-basement-steam-return-question#latest
The items you are viewing as comments in some way are advice, but I will break it down based on what I see and what others have said. You have some work that needs done that doesn't relate to your original question. I would suggest you either find a steam expert to come in and evaluate your system for problems or if you are handy and what to tackle the work yourself we could possibly help you work out what is wrong. Here are the few things I noticed.
1. Copper should not be used for any steam carrying line
2. It's hard to tell which way the flow of steam is supposed to go in your pictures, but you need to check the slope of ALL pipes in the system.
3. There is a reducer where your pipe transitions to copper, if the flow is towards the copper this is wrong because water will back up behind that reducer. Either the reducer should go 9most likely) or it needs changed to an eccentric reducer.
4. The piping at the boiler itself is wrong. For sure at the return/equalizer piping.
5. Can't tell from the pics, but you could have a return pipe/water level issue as was suggested.
Have you tried the find a contractor link on this site? Where are you located we may be able to recommend a steam expert. Whoever put the copper on your steam lines is definitely NOT a steam expert and you shouldn't let them touch this system again...IMHO.
http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/153801/remodeling-a-basement-steam-return-question#latest
The items you are viewing as comments in some way are advice, but I will break it down based on what I see and what others have said. You have some work that needs done that doesn't relate to your original question. I would suggest you either find a steam expert to come in and evaluate your system for problems or if you are handy and what to tackle the work yourself we could possibly help you work out what is wrong. Here are the few things I noticed.
1. Copper should not be used for any steam carrying line
2. It's hard to tell which way the flow of steam is supposed to go in your pictures, but you need to check the slope of ALL pipes in the system.
3. There is a reducer where your pipe transitions to copper, if the flow is towards the copper this is wrong because water will back up behind that reducer. Either the reducer should go 9most likely) or it needs changed to an eccentric reducer.
4. The piping at the boiler itself is wrong. For sure at the return/equalizer piping.
5. Can't tell from the pics, but you could have a return pipe/water level issue as was suggested.
Have you tried the find a contractor link on this site? Where are you located we may be able to recommend a steam expert. Whoever put the copper on your steam lines is definitely NOT a steam expert and you shouldn't let them touch this system again...IMHO.
KC_Jones
2
Re: Base-Ray, Baseray, Base Ray in one pipe steam
so, Abra, do you agree that this could result in a half heated baseray? I get ZERO hammer from this run.I like to fix problems as they are found. And if it fixes the issue, so much the better. If there's water sitting in that return and it is actually pitched the wrong way, it could reduce the venting in that run and consequently lead to slower heating of that baseray.
You should have a temperature differential across the trap. Hot side should be 210-220, cold side should be a bit below that maybe 170-180. If it's same temp in and out then trap is stuck open. If the trap isn't getting hot then it's probably stuck closed.
How can I confirm traps are working? The dine and kitchen (which I haven't mentioned, same deal so why repeat) traps look newer, that lr one is ancient
This is somewhere a IR camera comes in real handy. You can do a quick check using a laser thermometer, but with an IR picture it'll be real obvious.
