Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Built in check valves in circulators? Advantages and Dis-advantages?
Why are these small check valves sometimes removed? I just replaced a Grundfos with a 3 speed 15-58 with a built in check valve. I left it in, however, why would they ever be removed?
edcrow
5
Re: Contractor needs a double check on EDR
Are you doing a drop header?
A drop header can be almost touching the top of the boiler as long as the risers go up 24-30" above the top of the boiler first. With a drop header, it's the height of the risers that count, not the header as long as it's not below the top of the boiler..
A drop header can be almost touching the top of the boiler as long as the risers go up 24-30" above the top of the boiler first. With a drop header, it's the height of the risers that count, not the header as long as it's not below the top of the boiler..
ChrisJ
5
Re: Contractor needs a double check on EDR
One of the reasons I went with a Weil-Mclain was it has 3 inch tappings.Are you doing a drop header?
A drop header can be almost touching the top of the boiler as long as the risers go up 24-30" above the top of the boiler first. With a drop header, it's the height of the risers that count, not the header as long as it's not below the top of the boiler..
Yes i had planned a dropped header. But am reading all the posts and some think i should consider a different boiler altogether due to the 2" boiler connections being too small.
What are your thoughts?
I ended up only doing 2" risers due to cost, but my boiler is only 150K input. For this size 3" would be perfect into a 4" drop header.
ChrisJ
5
Re: Contractor needs a double check on EDR
665 square feet X 240 = 159,600 BTU's to heat the building.I don't disagree, but wanted to clarify slightly. Selecting the smaller boiler will definitely require a finer tune on the system than the larger one. I personally would probably go a bit smaller, but that also depends on real world conditions pipe insulation etc. You would most likely be able to get the smaller one working no problem. I was just breaking down the raw numbers, beyond that is up to your experience level as to how you move forward. Most of the "tuning" I am talking about would need done no matter what to get a nice running system. It is harped on many times on this site. These are systems not a boiler with some stuff hooked to it. When you replace a boiler it is good practice to evaluate the entire system, not just replace the boiler. When I did mine I went with the full 33%, BUT in a couple years I am adding square footage and more heating so I allowed some grow room. Also if you go with the 8 section and get it running properly there will be fuel savings over the 9. Either one will show fuel savings over the monster that is currently installed!
A boiler that is 82% efficient would need a gross input rating of 194,600 BTU if it had no pickup factor. The manufacturers, including Crown, add a 33% pickup factor to the boiler to be sure it will do the job after the install. Their eight section boiler has a gross input of 241K but only 149K is considered available to heat the building.
The Crown Bermuda eight section boiler, 241K input, 149K net with the pickup factor is the boiler you want. The boiler offers a slightly smaller pickup factor of 24% versus the recommended 33%. Most of us are in agreement that the 33% is more than required for a properly vented system. Just be very sure of your EDR figures. You don't want to make a mistake by 50 EDR or more if you're selecting a "smaller" boiler.
Remember, larger is not "better". The boiler will cycle on pressure constantly if is is too large for the building.
KC_Jones
5
Re: Contractor needs a double check on EDR
The chart on their own website clearly shows a pickup factor. I will break down their own numbers. The boiler has a gross input of 276000 BTU multiply that by it's rated efficiency of 82.2% you get their 229k rating in the column labeled "Heating Capacity (MBH)" then you divide that by 1.33 for the pickup factor and you get the net rating of 172 or 708 sq ft as listed on their chart. I don't get those exact numbers, but sometimes they round differently. You get the idea though. I am not sure what they told you maybe they don't understand I am just looking at the numbers on their own ratings chart.
KC_Jones
5
Re: Contractor needs a double check on EDR
Look at the specs on the boiler. They should give sq ft of steam rating for the boiler. That is a direct comparison to the EDR number you have in hand...you do not add anything to this. Most if not all boiler manufacturers add the pick up factor for you. Here is the rating chart for Crown boilers, see the column labeled sq ft.? Go by that number, which would be the BSI276 boiler rated for 708 sq ft. That means the current boiler is probably over sized.
http://www.crownboiler.com/Products/Bermuda_BSI
http://www.crownboiler.com/Products/Bermuda_BSI
KC_Jones
5
Re: Economizer Training
Google honeywell economizers manual they had a pdf that you can down load that is very helpful with desing n trouble shooting.
don_9
5
Re: Should I replace my oil tank?
The tank is 44 years old. Are you still driving a 44 YO car on a daily basis? If and when the tank starts to leak, it will not start leaking like you pulled the pop-top on a can of beer. It will get a "pimple" of rust near the bottom and if you want to poke at it, you will probably start a leak.
Someone "modernized" the tank with the new vent, whistle and gauge. And the new bottom outlet fitting. There's still a ton of sludge inside the tank. There appears to be a couple of "pimples" on the bottom of the tank in the photos. Don't be a teenager and pick them. They might bleed.
No one is trying to get access to your wallet by suggesting that you need a new tank. But if you are going to be there and not be switching from oil, a new Roth or Shute type tank would be nice with a Tigerloop on the burner and one pipe to suck out of the top of the tank. Let the sludge collect on the bottom and you won't be dealing with the sludge in the oil feed line.
I've seen them a whole lot older and not be leaking. If they develop "Pimples", they don't start leaking right away. I see far more start weeping on seams than I do leaking in just the tank part.
If you decide to try to sell the house, or need some home inspection for insurance purposes, the first thing they are going to pick at will be that oil tank. Inspectors and insurance companies look at old oil tanks like a potential Ebola epidemic.
If you decide to change the tank, run it down to the bottom, then change it. Don't get it changed when it is full. Some oil tank removal service will charge up Vaseline prices to transfer the fuel for waste purposes into their own tanks, filter the heck out of it and get "free" fuel, that you paid them to have removed.
Sort of like Excavation Contractors who dig a hole and charge to take the dirt away. They, they drop it off somewhere else as fill and charge the person that gets your fill. Then, because they took away too much fill, you need replacement dirt so they charge you full bore for new fill. Sometimes, fill that they stored in their yard for others. In other words, they get you coming and going.
Someone "modernized" the tank with the new vent, whistle and gauge. And the new bottom outlet fitting. There's still a ton of sludge inside the tank. There appears to be a couple of "pimples" on the bottom of the tank in the photos. Don't be a teenager and pick them. They might bleed.
No one is trying to get access to your wallet by suggesting that you need a new tank. But if you are going to be there and not be switching from oil, a new Roth or Shute type tank would be nice with a Tigerloop on the burner and one pipe to suck out of the top of the tank. Let the sludge collect on the bottom and you won't be dealing with the sludge in the oil feed line.
I've seen them a whole lot older and not be leaking. If they develop "Pimples", they don't start leaking right away. I see far more start weeping on seams than I do leaking in just the tank part.
If you decide to try to sell the house, or need some home inspection for insurance purposes, the first thing they are going to pick at will be that oil tank. Inspectors and insurance companies look at old oil tanks like a potential Ebola epidemic.
If you decide to change the tank, run it down to the bottom, then change it. Don't get it changed when it is full. Some oil tank removal service will charge up Vaseline prices to transfer the fuel for waste purposes into their own tanks, filter the heck out of it and get "free" fuel, that you paid them to have removed.
Sort of like Excavation Contractors who dig a hole and charge to take the dirt away. They, they drop it off somewhere else as fill and charge the person that gets your fill. Then, because they took away too much fill, you need replacement dirt so they charge you full bore for new fill. Sometimes, fill that they stored in their yard for others. In other words, they get you coming and going.
Re: Hot water radiator used for steam help
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/SearchForm?Zip=11565&Radius=10&SecurityID=b9d711edb4feaac4e16b1c9f80c1f41a6db09894&action_doSearch=Search
Looks like you have several choices for that area.
Looks like you have several choices for that area.
KC_Jones
1
Re: Hot water radiator used for steam help
Yes, he should have checked the Pressuretrol and the Pigtail AND he should have checked the vents. My suspicion is you will probably need some additional main venting (either a larger main vent like a Gorton #2 or multiple Gorton #1's) but you need to get someone in who is not afraid of a steam system and knows them. Look in the "Find a Contractor" tab on this site. Maybe someone on here services your area.
Fred
1