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Re: Premature auto water shut off
First it's copper and should be steel pipe. Second it doesn't appear to have a header of any kind just straight up into the main. Third (and maybe this is the angle) the Hartford loop connection seems a bit high to my eye, but that could just be the picture.
KC_Jones
5
Why I do not answer every posting
I received an e-mail from someone who was upset that I did not answer their posting. I do not answer every posting for a very good reason most of the time. That is others have adequately answered the question or concern and I do not need to chime in. There are some very talented people available on this website and my many years of posting here have taught me that if something has been adequately answered do not put in my .02 cents worth.
Also for that persons concern Dan Holohan does not pay me and I am not a member of his staff. I post here as do many others with no desire to be paid but to only help those who need help.
Also for that persons concern Dan Holohan does not pay me and I am not a member of his staff. I post here as do many others with no desire to be paid but to only help those who need help.
Tim McElwain
11
Re: Leaky Gorton help
you can try the 45's..maybe too much slope...you can take two 90 elbows and mount them between a nipple..the end one you can go up and down slightly to create an angle to allow the condensed steam to flow back into the returns...yes..it was good to make those unions..
i'm always moving things around too..and that makes it easy..i gather the hissing is steam..sometimes if you clean them out with vinegar and water..who knows if a piece of dirt or rust is stuck in there..switch them around if you can..and also use two pipe wrenches and pipe dope or whatever you have ...and make things tight enough..this may help so water flows down.
don't forget if you have leaks around those gorton's with the antler set up this could be a false read on venting since the air is escaping from the not tight set up...see how things go with a tight set up too. sometimes you don't know what cumulative problems cause..so get things tight...sloped..and recheck to eliminate causes and then retest.
it is also suggested to have 15 inches back of return to have the first vent..so measure around the floor joists for proper nipples...
i'm always moving things around too..and that makes it easy..i gather the hissing is steam..sometimes if you clean them out with vinegar and water..who knows if a piece of dirt or rust is stuck in there..switch them around if you can..and also use two pipe wrenches and pipe dope or whatever you have ...and make things tight enough..this may help so water flows down.
don't forget if you have leaks around those gorton's with the antler set up this could be a false read on venting since the air is escaping from the not tight set up...see how things go with a tight set up too. sometimes you don't know what cumulative problems cause..so get things tight...sloped..and recheck to eliminate causes and then retest.
it is also suggested to have 15 inches back of return to have the first vent..so measure around the floor joists for proper nipples...
ww
5
Re: height of gorton 2 vent
The #2 laying on my desk is 6 1/2" tall including the 1/2" male pipe thread on the bottom.
JUGHNE
1
Re: Honeywell CT3600 Thermostat---Cycle Setting Question
I agree 100%! It is great to have this forum!
Fred
5
Re: Reversing water flow in classic hydronics
Here's a link to a PM article that deals with 4 way valves...I'm not too good at inserting links and such into posts. Sorry. Also, you can use the search function to find them...just search for "4way".
Article:
http://www.pmmag.com/Articles/Column/625c61cba20d7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____
Article:
http://www.pmmag.com/Articles/Column/625c61cba20d7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____
Re: What does derating gas boilers for high altitude do to the DOE rating?
Your math looks good to me.
Carl
Carl
Zman
5
Re: HELP! 1" Pex over concrete slab its cold want to optimize heat transfer
I totally agree that the lack of heat transfer plates and the 16" OC spacing is one major problem.
The other is your choice of heating equipment. An electric water heater with a 4.5kw element has an out put of 15k btu's. With two of them, you've got 30k btu's. Your heat loss is probably close to twice that much at design temp.
Who designed this? Was an accurate heat loss calculation done?
The only simple thing that can be done short of tearing up the floor is to get a heat source with adequate output and crank the supply temp up high enough to get enough output from the floor. The down side to that is that running water temps too high can damage the floor.
There's no easy fix for improper design.
The other is your choice of heating equipment. An electric water heater with a 4.5kw element has an out put of 15k btu's. With two of them, you've got 30k btu's. Your heat loss is probably close to twice that much at design temp.
Who designed this? Was an accurate heat loss calculation done?
The only simple thing that can be done short of tearing up the floor is to get a heat source with adequate output and crank the supply temp up high enough to get enough output from the floor. The down side to that is that running water temps too high can damage the floor.
There's no easy fix for improper design.
Ironman
6
Re: Pump sizing
Good info on OWF piping and the issues with open systems in Idronics 10.
http://www.caleffi.com/sites/default/files/coll_attach_file/idronics_10.pdf
http://www.caleffi.com/sites/default/files/coll_attach_file/idronics_10.pdf
hot_rod
5