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Still can't see if there is a Hartford loop back behind that equalizer but most of the piping looks pretty good. The flue pipe looks like the boiler and water heater are tied together before they go into the chimney. I doubt if that meets code. I would think they should each terminate in the chimney so that neither appliance can exhaust back into the other. Should have a damper. Looks like it needs to be drained and cleaned and a skim port installed and a skimming. You may need to skim two or three more times over the next month so watch how they do that, after they put the skim port in.
Show us the Hartford loop in another picture.

Nope.. no skim port installed. If you check the install manual, you'll see that weil mclain reccommends a skim port be installed right where the jacket has the opening with the fiberglass behind it showing, underneath the pressuretrol and gauge. Looks like they just installed a plug there. Does that boiler have a vent damper? The WM EG series comes with one standard. Hope the boiler has a proper header.

Oil floats. That's probably iron. When you drain water from boiler, put it in a cup and place a magnet on the side. Does all the black stuff go to the magnet? Regardless, boiler should have been skimmed after installation. Wider pic of the boiler will tell us if there's a skim port.

This is essentially the same boiler as you have. You can see the vent damper in this picture. It is the device mounted to the draft hood with the round black actuator mounted to the side. It will also have wiring running to it. It comes with these boilers and was paid for as part of the boiler package. Not supposed to discuss price, but they aren't inexpensive so you paid for it, it should be installed. I should also add you can see the skim port installed in this photo as well. It is the large pipe on the side with the valve. I put a valve on mine, but that isn't necessary. All you really need is a pipe and a cap for when it isn't being used.

Then Doc Ironman's diagnosis is correct.

You could shut off power. Shut the isolation flanges on that pump. Loosen the 4 bolts and rotate the pump. Then you would need to take out the 4 Allen bolts on the motor and rotate it so the electrical box faces up. You may or may not have to disconnect power wiring to the pump.

Turn off power also. No need to dead head those other pumps if you get a heat call.On the Tstat 's they are probably setup for hot air. You will need to get into the installer setup to verify.