Best Of
Re: From Wall Hung to Cast Iron -- radiant / baseboard / indirect hot water
On a cold night (At or near your design low) See if that boiler cycles on and off and there corresponding times
pecmsg
Re: From Wall Hung to Cast Iron -- radiant / baseboard / indirect hot water
@JPennHill said:
Really don't care about the delta in efficiencies — I think simpler is always better.
I'm just a homeowner/engineer, not a heating pro, but I'm also in the "simpler is better" camp, so I would definitely go with the cast iron boiler. Yes, it will be 10% less efficient, but your building envelope is well insulated and sealed, so you won't be burning a ton of fuel, meaning a 10% fuel savings isn't going to be worth the headaches that come with high efficiency.
So I personally would go with a cast iron boiler. If you have the money, you might want to look at an Energy Kinetics boiler. They are really nice, efficient as you can get from a non-condensing oil boiler, and long lasting. And their Ascent Combi can vent into polypropylene if your venting is an issue. Or you could do an EK1 with indirect. @Roger of Energy Kinetics frequently answers questions here, so their support is excellent.
If you don't have the money for an EK, I would get a Buderus G115WS cast iron (not wall hung as you have, so parts are not as problematic) or another cast iron Weil-McLain boiler to replace our existing WM cast iron boilers, which have been bulletproof and have survived 30+ years of low water temps that everyone says should have killed them.
Again, that is my non-pro homeowner/engineer personal preference.
jesmed1
Re: Steam Boiler swap savings
Don’t dismiss the fine points of dialing in your steam heat’s operation. I’ll add to the consensus that Getting control of the pressure and assuring you have good venting is really where big savings can be had. I would add that you should confirm the boiler is piped to the instructions provided with the boiler (at minimum) and that it was properly skimmed when installed. The latter two points are important for production of “dry” steam. Dry Steam carries few water droplets with it, providing maximum efficiency in heat transfer. Wet steam is heavy and wastes energy.
Regarding target pressure, it might be worthwhile to understand what variety of steam system you have. The reason I mention this is that if yours is a two pipe vapor system and you’re running more than several ounces of pressure you’re bound to be wasting energy.
For example, if I shut off half my radiators and allow the pressure to rise to 3psi, the cycle length is almost as long as it is with all the radiators open but at much lower pressure. It’s not hard to see that one could spike fuel use tremendously if the pressure is too high for the task at hand. There is such a thing as a Vaporstat that is like your boiler’s pressuretrol but it’s calibrated in ounces. It may be worth investigating.
A steam heating system out of calibration can be an energy hog. One that’s dialed in should be very economical to run, all other things being equal. Obviously heat loss is the other half of the picture. But start with confirming optimum steam system operation since it’s on your mind already
Re: Happy New Year!
You as well Erin &Andrew!
Your even hand on the rudder keeps us all on the right course.
PC7060
Re: From Wall Hung to Cast Iron -- radiant / baseboard / indirect hot water
Hello JPennHill,
" Buderus is out of business " I thought it was part of the Bosch Group now.
Maybe set up both types for redundancy, especially if the Buderus still works.
109A_5
Re: 2 risers compared to 1 on steam boiler?
you guys are awesome. As always I have gotten my answer in abundance. I am a professional licensed yadi yadi with 20 years experience. I have seen countless “pros” that are just plain inadequate. It’s no news. I have also never seen a pro put in sight glasses on a steam header to actually dig deep and see what’s going on. When I saw some of your videos ethical I was seriously impressed. I love them and appreciate what you’ve done for the community immensely.
